How do I raise the 3ph higher?

[Racer71]

We have an adjustable link for the tilt on the 3ph. If you can get a 2nd one for the other side you can shorten both and raise the lifting arms.

Anyone know of a source for these?

 

[RedDirt]

We have an adjustable link for the tilt on the 3ph. If you can get a 2nd one for the other side you can shorten both and raise the lifting arms.

Anyone know of a source for these?

Racer71,
I think I'm having a "well duh" moment. I sure don't know why this wouldn't work. But I think the links would be lengthened not shortened. You want your side arms lower to the ground in the working position so there is more lift height available. Of course, a corresponding adjustment to the top link will be necessary to maintain the correct cutting angle.

I don't know a specific source but TSC, Messicks and Argi Supply carry 3PH linkage parts. Maybe a search there would be fruitful....or maybe find something that is modifiable. Other option may be Kubota for me. I need to look and see if the right side adjuster would work on the left. The clevis is set at an angle to the turnbuckle so maybe it will, maybe it will be opposite.

Anyway...great idea and worth checking out.

 

[Racer71]

Red,

I did some testing this weekend and here are the results.

You had worked with the location where the top link attaches to the tractor. So did I. I started with the blade level (square) and the top link in the upper hole on the tractor. (1st picture)

I raised the blade and it came up 11 inches. (pictures 2 and 3)

I then put the top link in the lower hole and kept the blade level. It raised 13 3/4 inches. Gained 2 3/4 inches. (pictures 4 and 5)

But I think the links would be lengthened not shortened. You want your side arms lower to the ground in the working position so there is more lift height available.

The lower arms will be at the same angle for a given blade cutting angle and blade depth. Shortening the lifting links will lower the arms attached to the 3ph cylinder giving more upward travel.

My lifting links came with 2 height adjustment holes where they attach to the lower arms. I added a 3rd on the fixed lenght arm and adjusted the other to match. This combo raised the blade 20 iches. (pictures 6 and 7)

A word of caution though. The left hand linkage is starting to bind in the down position.

 

[bx23barry]

You could also drill new holes in the lower 3pt arms closer to the tractor. That seems to be the way to go on the bx.

 

[RedDirt]

You could also drill new holes in the lower 3pt arms closer to the tractor. That seems to be the way to go on the bx.

Another pending experiment! Barry, have you done this on your tractor?

Racer,
Your tractor has many more adjustment options than the bx. We have only one pivot point choice for the top link at the tractor. I was experimenting moving the top link pivot point on the implement, not the tractor. And the bx lift arms/side links have only one connection point. Seeing your variety of hook-up options confirms there are many ways to arrive at an equitable solution.

If bxBarry's method works (for me) it may be the easiest solution of the ones investigated thus far.

 

[SkunkWerX]

RedDirt,

Mundy's picture was a good one, showing the different connection points, but, I do not believe the lower link connection is the cause.

Racers point is well taken. you could even rig up a scrap block of wood, place it behind your A-frame on your blade, connect your toplink and move it up and down with C-clamps to find the sweet spot.

The actual reason for this dilemma lies on the construction and mounting geometry of the blade itself, you see it in Racer's picture better than yours, but both of your blades are similar.

Item 1: My blade has more curvature, thus, the cutting angle is more acute.

Item 2: My blade appears to be "shorter". The distance from the bottom of your blade to the horizontal beam on your frame is greater. Think of it this way: Your balde is for a taller tractor. One with taller rear tires and a higher connection point.

I will take this measurement and post it.



Possible remedies:

1. I like Racer's idea, experiment to see if this helps.

2. You could even weld some tabs (spacers) to change your cutting angle.

-Remove the cutting edge.
-below the bolt holes weld a strip of 1/4" thick metal, then rebolt the cutting edge.
This will move the ground engaging portion of the cutting edge forward, thus changing it's angle of attack.

OR, my prior suggestion,

3. Find a way to move the entire blade's bottom portion forward by modfying it's mounting points.

 

[Tim371]

This is what I did with my 5' king cutter, cut off mounts with sawsall and weld back on pointing down, made a huge difference.

 

[bx23barry]

Another pending experiment! Barry, have you done this on your tractor?

Racer,
Your tractor has many more adjustment options than the bx. We have only one pivot point choice for the top link at the tractor. I was experimenting moving the top link pivot point on the implement, not the tractor. And the bx lift arms/side links have only one connection point. Seeing your variety of hook-up options confirms there are many ways to arrive at an equitable solution.

If bxBarry's method works (for me) it may be the easiest solution of the ones investigated thus far.

Sorry I been away. No, I haven't had any issues with my lift height but there was a thread about doing it awhile back with photos. Seemed like the way to go so I stuck it in my brain at the time (amazing it stayed there this long). Might do a search and try to find it.

 

[RedDirt]

This is what I did with my 5' king cutter, cut off mounts with sawsall and weld back on pointing down, made a huge difference.

I've been gone a bit too.

Tim, Your solution was my first idea but my top of blade is only 1 3/4" below the "pulling arm". If I rotate the lower mounting flanges downward then I don't think I'll be able to rotate the blade 360 degrees because the blade would hit the turned down mounting flanges. From what I see in your photos my blade looks exactly the same. Are you still able to rotate 360 after you turned your side link mounts? I may need to resort to the Carter type quick connect to achieve this type of adjustment and still preserve the 360 rotation.

Skunk, I did try clamping a pivot point for the top link onto the a frame but I put the "new" pivot forward so that it aligned with the side link pins. See my earlier post, I gained a bit of elevation by doing this, but not substantial. Shifting the side link pins to point outward helped more but makes the implement much more difficult to hook up.

I know what you mean by my blade is built for a "taller " tractor. That, I'm sure, is the root of the problem. I'm going to price out a adjustable side link and try that on the left side (adjustable links on each side) if it is not too expensive. Or build a solid, but shorter, side link. I may also try boring new side link pivot holes in the lower arms as suggested by bx23barry.

 

[Racer71]

HI guys,

I ordered 2 adjustable side links today. I found them for$29. I will post pics when they arrive.