How do you wire the bx2670 for extra led lights.. need help pls?

[gogojuice]

Well.. That would make sense. When I unravelled the tape they were like that. I'm not even sure that my tail lights were working. Just noticed.. it may be coincidence.

Anyhow.. is this the right connector? Seems I have a red/black wire and and red blue wire and one black wire.

Thanks

 

[Citydude]

Well.. That would make sense. When I unravelled the tape they were like that. I'm not even sure that my tail lights were working. Just noticed.. it may be coincidence. Anyhow.. is this the right connector? Seems I have a red/black wire and and red blue wire and one black wire. Thanks

Do you have a tester to test the wires for power? If so, the work lights have power with the key on and aren't switched with the light switch on the dash. So, try hooking into the black wire with the red/ black wire with just the key on. If no power, try the black wire with the red/blue wire.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Gogo looks like you found them, I think 1 of the red wires turns off with the key and they other red is "on" all the time. Use 1 red depending on which way you wanna go and the black. If you think youll leave the light on accidently then use the keyed red wire, dont remember which 1 but easy to test with the new light.

 

[Weaselfoot]

From what I can see those three wires which are capped correspond to the description for the working light wires shown in my BX25D manual. The top wire in the photo appears to be black which is the ground wire (14B). The middle wire appears to be red and black (14RB) which runs directly off the battery through a 20 amp fuse. The lower wire could be red and blue (20RL) which is energized with the main switch ON with a 10 amp fuse. I think you can assume that these wires were for the optional work lights and can be used for an LED project as others have stated.

Your tail lights (if your wiring is similar to the BX25D) draw power from the ignition ON position through a 15 amp fuse. This circuit also feeds the main headlights via the double acting light switch. If your headlights are on, then your power is OK (fuse is good as you say). If your red tail lights are off and the main headlights are on, then your switch isn't transferring power to the tail light contact in the switch. Wiggle the switch. Are you sure the tail lights worked previously? If you suspect the switch you can test it at its connector. Looking at the connector attached to the switch, the 2nd and 3rd wires down are red&yellow and yellow. When the switch is turned ON for the headlights (including the tail lights), put a continuity tester (ohms scale) across the two contacts in the connector and it should show continuity if the switch is working properly. (BTW the 2nd and 4th wires should show continuity for the headlights.) Hope this helps.

 

[gogojuice]

Weaselfoot.

Thanks for the info.... very helpful. Couple of questions though.

Checked the bulbs. They are both blown

I connected the 14rb to the black (14B) and it blew a fuse. If its a ground..why did that happen?

Does this mean that I should use the 14RB 20amp one for my lights over the other one?
I'm just looking for them to come on with the headlights. I will probably remove them in summer as I hit some bushes and dont want to damage them.

 

[GolfAddict]

If I am reading that right, you plugged the ground into one of the two hot wires?? That would create a direct short that blew your fuse. Use the ground and one of the hot to power your lights.

 

[GolfAddict]

If you use the 14rb and the ground to the lights (with a switch in the line to the lights), it's like you are hooked directly to the battery. With key on or off, if you close the switch the lights will come on.

If you use the other 20rl and the ground to the lights, the lights will only be powered if the key is turned on.

 

[gogojuice]

Golf.

That is what I did. Plugged the ground (black) into the red/black plug and blew a 20amp fuse.

So. which way is the better way? ie., Pros/Cons.
If I use the 20rl will they always be on when it has power.. or will it be on when the power is on and the light switch for the headlights is on?

I would like them to come on only when the headlights are on.
Does 20amp give me more watts for lights than the 15amp?

After this is done.. I'm going to make a post that sums this all up for people who might also be stuck.

Thanks for the help. Think I'm almost there.

P.S what are your thoughts on this product
http://ropslights.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/New-Kubota-Triple.jpg

 

[GolfAddict]

On my BX which is a little older, I only had one hot (red) at the back so had no choice. Here is a basic diagram:

View attachment lights.pdf

From what I understand, you now have a choice on your newer BX. Using the one connector (20rl), it will be the same as the diagram. Using the other, just ignore the tractor's ignition switch, that hot (14rb) doesn't run through it to be controlled by it's on/off setting. It goes directly to the battery.

Again, from what I understand from weaslefoot above, it doesn't matter which of these wires you use as far as the headlight switch is concerned, as neither get the headlight switch involved. If you want to do that, the wiring gets a little more involved. (see dragon's installation description)

 

[GolfAddict]

Your link is direct to the picture. If you give the link to the page of the product itself, then I could read about. It looks good on the picture though!

 

[gogojuice]

Thanks Golf...

Here is the link.

Kubota BX Series ROPS Lights LED Worklight Kits | ROPS Lights

That diagram helped. I only need the 3 lights to plug into a switch and then plug the switch into the plugs at the back of the tractor?
Do the black plugs not need to plug into the switch as well?

Any idea of what kind of switch I should get. I like the look of the ROPS one. I thought that 179.00 USD was a bit steep since the lights can be had for about 10-20 on amazon.

 

[GolfAddict]

Here is another drawing. In this case, I show a box that the wires can all come into, and the switches can be mounted through the box and hook up to the wires in the box. Since you mentioned you'd like to be able to pull it off, that is what I did. Ran the wires into a box, velcro the box to the fender of the tractor. The wires from the back of the tractor to the box - I crimped on the same plug types that the tractor wire used and routed those short wire lengths to the box. Now I can unplug the wires from tractor and pull the box and lights right off for the summer.

You can wire all the lights to one switch if you want, or the two front lights to a switch separate from the back one, which is the way I show it in the diagram.

View attachment light switch.pdf

 

[gogojuice]

Golf...

PERFECT. Exactly what I would like Thank you so much.

How many watts can I have? An earlier post mentioned 120 watts. But if I used the 20 Amp does that give me more?
Is there a particular type of switch I should be looking for?

I was thinking these for the front, mounted vertically on the ROPS
KAWELL® 36W 6.6" CREE DC 9-32V 6000K 2520LM 60 Degree LED for ATV/Jeep/boat/suv/truck/car/atvs Driving light Off Road Waterproof Led Flood Work Light, Accessory Lighting & Kits - Amazon Canada

And this for the rear:
RioRand® 27W LED Flood Work Lamp Round Off Road Light High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor 60 Degree: Amazon.ca: Automotive

That comes to a total of 99watts

 

[GolfAddict]

Well, hopefully someone more expert will chime in to confirm, but here's what I understand. Given the earlier info is correct, and I believe it is, you have a 10amp and a 20 amp circuit to use back there. About all I know when it comes to this stuff is from Ohm's law, so using this version:

Amps x Volts = Watts

then the one connector supports up to 120 Watts (10 x 12 = 120), and the other up to 240 Watts (20 X 12 = 240).

That means either of the connectors will be more than fine with the lights you're looking at, with a total of 99W. I guess which you use will depend on if you want the lights to only be able to be switched on if the tractor ignition switch is on, or whether you want to be able to turn the lights on even with the tractor ignition off.

As far as switches, there are a plethora of styles, so you may just want to make a stop at a hardware store and browse them - as long as you choose a style that will support the voltage and current. Any switch that handles 12V or more (most any of them), and the current through it. If you put all three lights on one switch, you'd be drawing only 8.5 amps.

99W / 12V = 8.25

If you put the two front on one switch, and the back on a separate then

72W / 12V = 6 and 27W / 12V = 2.5

so, if you wanted the switches to be the same style you'd need to make sure they were 6 amp or more. You won't have any trouble finding switches to well exceed any of these limits.

 

[gogojuice]

Golf.. You have been a great help (others too)

So..... I think I have it.

Supplies

2 x switches for more than 10 amps each (gives me room)
1 x switch box
pig tail connectors x ??? (bunch)
Wiring (not sure what kind)
Flex tube (to go over wiring)

Lights below 120 watts or 240 watts depending on which I plug into.

Does this sound right?

 

[GolfAddict]

Looks pretty good. You shouldn't need more than a few wire nuts to pigtail wires together. The other thing is that some say they used waterproof switches. I just used some cheap toggle switches.

For wire, just some multi-strand wire, think I used about 12 gauge, whatever was about the same as what came out of the tractor.

Good luck, and post some pictures! :thumbsup:

 

[meos1]

Here is my lighting thread as well.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/343738-fender-light-install.html

The under fender wiring had a female that my factory light kit plugged right into.

 

[gogojuice]

Ok.. took the gamble and bought my lights. 3 of them, two mounted vertically on the ROPS, and one mounted horizontally pointing back.

KAWELL® 36W 7.5" DC 9-32V 6000K 2520LM 60 Degree Light LED for ATV/Jeep/boat/suv/truck/car/atvs light Off Road Waterproof Led Work Flood Beam Light Bar_cree light series_single color light_36W_LED LIGHT BAR_kawell

Now I'm on to switches.

12V 12A Car Boat ARB Waterproof Dual Blue LED Spot Light Rocker Switch SPST ON-OFF: Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

That has a lot more posts than just the two wires I will have. Anyone know which posts I would connect too?

***Golf.. that link didn't work on my end***

Thanks

 

[GolfAddict]

Hoping some of our "electrical wizards" may see and comment - I don't know what all those posts are for. I used some pretty simple single-pole-single-throw switches like this:

5pcs 12V Heavy Duty Toggle Flick Switch ON/OFF Car Dash Light Metal SPST, Switches & Dimmers - Amazon Canada

When you get into lighted switches like yours, I'm sure it's still not a big deal but I've never done it..

 

[gogojuice]

Picked up the supplies from NAPA today.

I went with similar ones that GOLF recommended. Just picked up the weatherproof top piece. I think those will be the easiest to use with gloves on.
I'm just waiting on my lights to arrive and then I'll start taking a pictures that show step by step.

Hopefully it will save some time and aggravation on everyones part