How far is too far for driving tractor on the road?

[garry1p]

I would suggest calling a local tractor dealer and ask who they use or recommend.
I think its best to have a professional bonded and insured person haul it for me.

Lot of risk in a 80+ mile road trip on busy roads going less than 25mph.
To many people always in a hurry and willing to put you in a dangerous situation.

 

[LouNY]

I hear all this concern about tire wear, bearings and seals. Roading is easier on a tractor then loader work or any kind of towed implement tillage. Tire wear will be less then constant slippage in dirt and gravel. I've mowed hay for 10 hr's at a stretch at 8-9 mph. Lots of days with 10 hours of seat time. And then consider the hours a farm tractor could put on with a baler, that plunger mass running back and forth puts a load one one side of gear and then loads the other side, even just sitting at an idle the baler will rock a tractor back and forth.

 

[Zete]

I was driving mine 14.5 miles one way between the farm and business. After a couple of close calls with impatient idiots on the road, that coupled with factors like the time it takes to drive that far(over an hour), and the wear and tear on tractor and tires, I bought a gooseneck trailer. Best investment I ever made.

 

[northcreek2624]

A family member of ours was involved in a car/tractor collision, he was in the car and ended up injured and lost sight in one eye. I don't know about the tractor operator as this was in another State.
Personally I don't feel that there is much if any upside to your venture.

 

[tradosaurus]

What is the mpg of a tractor? My 55 hp Kubota has a 11 gallon tank. Not sure how far I could get.

 

[5030]

even just sitting at an idle the baler will rock a tractor back and forth.

Certainly does. I used to contract bale wheat straw for the local road commission. They pre bought the combined wheat fields and I baled them and they came in and loaded the squares and hauled them away so it was 100% no touch.

The 575 high capacity NH square bailer always rocked the M9, especially when turning at the end of a row to start another, something you get used to after a while.

I no longer own it. Sold it a few years back on Tractor House and candidly, I don't miss it. Round bailing has no rock at all...lol

Actually, I sold it for not much less than I paid for it new but then it was always kept inside and well maintained.

People rave over JD square bailers but in my opinion, the NH square bailers are trouble free if maintained properly. Never had any issues with mine and it literally baled thousands and thousands of idiot cubes.

 

[ircole]

I have some hunting property here in central NC I really want to build up/fix up a few food plots. A few years ago had a forestry mulcher dude come in and make me a 1 acre plot 2 - 1/4 acre each food plots and shooting lanes in the pin planted cutover. It has proven to work pretty well for deer hunting so far.

So far I have been taking my John Deere 1445 front mower up there on a trailer mowing it a few times a year. It has been cleared off a few years now. I am thinking that in 2025 I can take my Kioti dk45se on there with a disc and run through the mowed areas a few times. Then sow some food plot seeds on it to attract turkey and deer. Then use the mower for maint going forward. I said a few times a year, I have missed the window for this year to plant clover. So I thought I would start out with some beans in spring of some sort, then in the fall disc it back up and plant a clover ish blend.

This fall I broadcasted some oats and wheat in it after mowing. Did "ok" but not great. Hard to tell exactly as after it was mowed lots of grass seeds fell to the earth too. This is my second year doing this and the deer love to come around so the idea is working, just want to make it even more productive. My goal it to plant perennial seeds of some sort long term.

So my question is, the trip is about 43 miles one way from home and I am thinking maybe doing this twice a year for 2025. I figure I should be able to make it up there in about 3-4 ish hours. Even if I had to leave it over night and drove it back the next day is ok. This is a 2012 model with about 500 hrs and I want it to last me the rest of my life if possible.

I usually only run it up to about 2500 rpm doing anything and plan to stay at that rpm/speed for the duration of the trip. Tires are R4's with plenty of life on em.

To rent a truck and trailer to haul it will cost for a single day approx $4-500. I don't have anything tough enough to haul that kinda load.

Planning to retire next year so how long it takes isn't a problem for me.

Suggestions?

Personally I don't think the wear and tear on the tractor is of any great concern, rather safety would be the issue. In the part of the country where I currently live I'd have no problem with the trip, but this is a relatively remote with low traffic area. I know people that do over 50 miles one way a couple times of the year. Now when I was much younger I bought a Farmalll F12 (think maybe F14) and was going to drive it about 60 miles oneway on a US highway with little traffic (many many years ago), my father-in-law was going to pick me up at the other end. Thankfully he caught up with me about 40 miles into the trip and pulled me the rest of the way. Think the tractor would only do 5 or so MPH. Now I'd never try that again, but with a tractor that would do 20 or more MPH I'd still give it a try. I do live in central Texas now where traffic is light except on holiday times. One of the few things good about being OLD and Retired is you may have more time than money.

 

[sd455dan]

I just stay vigilant when roading between the other property and also the hay folks, few miles each.

Maybe these new tractors "drive" better at rated RPM in High gear than an old TLB and China tractor.

 

[dieselscout80]

Tire wear would get my only concern.
Tractors are made to run full power running 2~4 mph pulling ground engagement implements for hours at a time. A couple hours on the road no big deal I would do it.
I would also install a light bar & flashers to make sure you’re seen.

90cummins

Their running more like 7 miles per hour or more now and putting north of 250 HP at that speed or much more HP.

 

[eddieirvine]

Find someone to haul your tractor for you and pick you back up later that day or in a couple days with someone else to pick you up and take you home, So much easier I have a 1/2 ton pickup and it is not enough truck to do the job my tandem axle trailer handles it fine, so a 1997 gmc truck diesel came up at a good price so i bought it 1 ton flat bed pulls it around like really easy! Remember this is fun stuff to do don't make it hard to do. Stay having a good time !!

 

[big bubba]

ludicrous to travel that far for the operator and machine for which it is not designed to travel those distances.

 

[jswann1975]

I have some hunting property here in central NC I really want to build up/fix up a few food plots. A few years ago had a forestry mulcher dude come in and make me a 1 acre plot 2 - 1/4 acre each food plots and shooting lanes in the pin planted cutover. It has proven to work pretty well for deer hunting so far.

So far I have been taking my John Deere 1445 front mower up there on a trailer mowing it a few times a year. It has been cleared off a few years now. I am thinking that in 2025 I can take my Kioti dk45se on there with a disc and run through the mowed areas a few times. Then sow some food plot seeds on it to attract turkey and deer. Then use the mower for maint going forward. I said a few times a year, I have missed the window for this year to plant clover. So I thought I would start out with some beans in spring of some sort, then in the fall disc it back up and plant a clover ish blend.

This fall I broadcasted some oats and wheat in it after mowing. Did "ok" but not great. Hard to tell exactly as after it was mowed lots of grass seeds fell to the earth too. This is my second year doing this and the deer love to come around so the idea is working, just want to make it even more productive. My goal it to plant perennial seeds of some sort long term.

So my question is, the trip is about 43 miles one way from home and I am thinking maybe doing this twice a year for 2025. I figure I should be able to make it up there in about 3-4 ish hours. Even if I had to leave it over night and drove it back the next day is ok. This is a 2012 model with about 500 hrs and I want it to last me the rest of my life if possible.

I usually only run it up to about 2500 rpm doing anything and plan to stay at that rpm/speed for the duration of the trip. Tires are R4's with plenty of life on em.

To rent a truck and trailer to haul it will cost for a single day approx $4-500. I don't have anything tough enough to haul that kinda load.

Planning to retire next year so how long it takes isn't a problem for me.

Suggestions?

I know a guy with a car hauler/rollback type truck who will haul a tractor 50 miles for $75... you might try an outfit like that. A lot safer, faster, less wear and tear on tractor, and less hassle than loading up and booming down yourself.

 

[MarblemountLane]

I’ve had a car trailer since 1988. Our two properties are 7-1/2 miles apart. I haul my old Massey Ferguson. If going to a neighbor only a mile away, I’ll road it

 

[screamin400]

To minimize tire wear, air up all the tires to the max bead-seating pressure indicated on the sidewalls. Tire wear is caused by the tread area "slipping" as the tread flattens out and curves as the loaded contact patch rotates around the tire. If the tire is inflated to max-pressure, that contact patch squirm - and tire wear - is vastly reduced. Both fronts and rears. Air down for work.

I terms of varying engine speed, the theory is that as the pistons go up and down bores, the wear on the piston skirt against the bore happens at different areas of the bore at different speeds. So vary the speed, 1900 rpm ~ rated speed (2450 rpm?). Every power pole along the way, throttle up or down a couple hundred rpm.

If you are concerned about front diff bearings and seals, or rear axle bearings and seals, get some sort of work wagon (inexpensive wheel bearings) and put the 3-pt implement(s), and maybe even the loader bucket on the wagon.

My biggest concern of 3~4 hours of on-road time would be the car-driving people in hell-bent hurry to get somewhere and crash into you and/or each other. There are usb-rechargeable magnetic orange-flash "beacon lights" that you could charge-up and stick to the top of your ROPS frame. Check your local laws regarding use of such lights, but generally, more warning lights will reduce your odds of being part of a wreck.

You want to ride on the center two inches of the tire wearing the tire out uneven?

 

[Slomo928]

I live in rural Virginia and there is a lot of BIG equipment on the road but almost all traveling short distances. I would recommend against tractoring that far. Mostly because of the stupid people driving cars. Put an ad on Craigs List and see what you can arrange.

 

[HippieFarmer]

I drive my Kioti between my two properties about twice a year. It takes me right at 1 hour. It just doesn't get anymore redneck than that. My butt is retired too, and it probably couldn't handle a longer ride. If you decide to drive it, my advice is it's a lot easier if you don't drink.

 

[JethroB]

I’ve used a local used car dealer/auto mechanic who has a rollback. He’s experienced and insured. At $1.50 a mile can’t beat it.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

In some states, unless you're engaged in agriculture as a primary income, you cannot legally take a tractor on the road. That opens all sorts of insurance liability issues.

 

[FrancisC]

I have two tractors that do 60 road miles a day each at harvests for weeks on end, hauling round bales and silage trailers here on the farm. Not a problem. Just make sure you're in 2WD, front camber is spot-on if it's 4WD (ag tires are expensive...), and have AC/Heat/radio in the cab. Make plans for what-ifs situations ie: flat tires, mechanical problems etc... Saw on the a news site just a few days ago, some guy drove his JD garden tractor something like 350 miles to get to his brother's funeral with a small trailer behind.

 

[ptsg]

I hear all this concern about tire wear, bearings and seals. Roading is easier on a tractor then loader work or any kind of towed implement tillage. Tire wear will be less then constant slippage in dirt and gravel. I've mowed hay for 10 hr's at a stretch at 8-9 mph. Lots of days with 10 hours of seat time. And then consider the hours a farm tractor could put on with a baler, that plunger mass running back and forth puts a load one one side of gear and then loads the other side, even just sitting at an idle the baler will rock a tractor back and forth.

Thanks Lou for some common sense.

Didn't realize that simply roading a tractor was such a big deal for some folks with all kinds of theories, but then again, here in Europe, that doesn't seem to be a concern at all, since you'll see tractors on the road pretty much everywhere, doing some fairly long distances and most pulling heavy loaded trailers.

Heck, a month or so ago, I just did 10 miles around the small village with my "little" Branson, just checking the woods, some trails, and what not.

I'll say the OP will have no issues at all. Is it the most pleasant drive? Definitely not, but perfectly doable. Tire wear will be insignificant, unless the toe is way off. So is all the other concerns, like front axle wear (?) and lot more stuff that was said before.

About the only concern I could have, was if the OP's tractor was an HST, but it's not. HST don't really like high ranges and I can see how that long distance could cause it to overheat. If it's hilly, then I can see the OP having to come to a full stop, to change ranges and keep going at a much slower pace.

Just be aware of the crazy idiots driving around you and enjoy the ride!