Buying Advice How much do I need?

[jeff9366]

Kubota L2501 threads in the TBN archive:

Kubota L2501 site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search

Many pages ~~don't stop at page one. Lots of info on options for the L2501.

 

[motownbrowne]

I think the L2501 would be a great tractor for your intended purposes. Skip the backhoe, though. I just don't see how you could possibly have enough need on 5 acres to justify a backhoe. Now if you wanted to put in a foundation for a new house and put in several hundred yards of water/power lines sure, but that doesn't sound like the case. We rented a mini-ex two falls ago. Paid $225 for 24 hours. Ran out of things to do with it. Also, backhoes are pain to take off and put on. It's not the end of the world, but it means that you'll be less inclined to swap out the mower or tiller for the backhoe and vice versa.

You should also consider the Kioti ck2610. It's a direct competitor to the l2501. If I was buying one or the other, it'd probably be the Kubota, because I have a great dealership and they're currently offering better financing, but it's worth a look-see.

 

[Schmoopette]

Thanks for all the help Jeff and for not making me feel dumb. This whole thing is a process. Sounds like go bigger. Get the tooth bar. Forget the backhoe due to price. Get roto tiller. Maybe rent when post holes are needed. Then forgot to answer driveway of gravel. That one is 12' wide and 150' long

 

[jeff9366]

Gravel driveway is 12' wide and 150' long

Unless subject to severe weather, flooding and heavy use, the Ratchet Rake should suffice. At any rate, start there.

Roto-tiller will get to the bottom of pot holes.

 

[Wagtail]

Sorry about throwing tractor related acronyms around, Mate. I usually include the long version followed by the acronym... forgot to, this time. :ashamed:

Oh, and don't 'feel dumb'. Each and every one of us has learnt something new on this site. I've only owned/operated my tractors for 3 years and I'm still/always learning.

Seeing as your Uncle is over in Vermont, I'd still consider taking a knowledgeable neighbour along with you for advice. It'll be a fun day out for him (or her) and the International-Standard going "price" for the advice is a new tractor ball-cap! :thumbsup:

 

[Schmoopette]

we shouldn't get flooding. Husband is asking about box blades on gravel drive. I assume this is more expensive than the ratchet rake, as that's cheap. Likely make do with the rake

 

[jeff9366]

On small tractors, like the L2501, the down oriented teeth on a Ratchet Rake will do everything a Box Blade will do but more slowly.

When you buy a Box Blade you are buying steel to make the Box Blade heavy.

You attach a Ratchet Rake to the FEL bucket, so all the weight of the bucket, about 250 pounds, is utilized.

You can store a Ratchet Rake in the corner of the garage. Box Blades and other Three Point Hitch implements take up quite a bit of room.

Start with a Ratchet Rake.


June 9, 2016:

I own both a Ratchet Rake and a Rollover Box Blade.

I have been contemplating Ratchet Rake versus light Box Blade of late.

I like the Ratchet Rake, which I recommend based on 600 hours experience.

This post concerns Ratchet Rakes Vs. light Box Blades, such as the 60" Land Pride BB1260/346 pounds/69 pounds per foot.

I searched for the weight of kubota L3301 bucket but could not find a number. I presume L3301 bucket weighs approximately 240 pounds, extrapolating from other kubota specs. 68" Ratchet Rake weighs 88 pounds. Adding 240 + 88 = 328 pounds, pretty close to 346 pounds of BB1260 Box Blade.

In addition, the (operator controlled) weight of the FEL frame bears on the Ratchet Rake. Likewise, weight of the Three Point Hitch bears on the Box Blade. FEL frames weigh much more than ( 3X? 4X?) Three Point Hitch components. So, including some FEL weight, I guesstimate that ground contact pressure on Ratchet Rake and BB1260 would be at least equal, perhaps greater pressure on the Ratchet Rake.

Further in Ratchet Rake's favor you have articulation of bucket/RR combination in two planes from the operator's station and 1-1/2" serrated teeth on the Ratchet Rake.

Box Blade can be raised and lowered hydraulically from the operator's station. Box Blade angle of attack is adjustable via the Three Point Hitch Top Link, but not from the operator's station. Standard Box Blade does not have rippers, standard is a smooth cutting edge.

Ratchet Rake is capable of tearing up sod with its serrated teeth, the initial operation in much grading. The Ratchet Rake will not pull as large a load as a Box Blade but it may pull 40% of capacity of BB1260 per pass, with faster cycles. Ratchet Rake is more intuitive in operation than a Box Blade, which requires considerable experience to operate efficiently.

This is why I feel the Ratchet Rake is superior to light Box Blades for LIGHT grading.

This is a novel assessment of the Ratchet Rake. Subject to revision and modification.

When I have heavy grading to do, I mount my 60"/625 pound (125 pounds per foot) Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade on the tractor's Three Point Hitch AND the Ratchet Rake on my FEL bucket.

 

[Schmoopette]

Wow. Ok. Very thorough description. Learned a lot. Definitely think big tractor is obvious at this point. Backhoe isn't needed. Those items that attach to the FEL and call it a day!!

 

[Schmoopette]

We are new and the neighbors aren't terribly friendly yet. Haven't had time to make them pie.

 

[jeff9366]

Once you get a tractor, neighbors who do not have tractors, but have tractor tasks, materialize from far and near, bearing pies.

Once you get a tractor, new tractor uses will occur to you regularly, such as taking out the trash can. You will buy implements based on experience and need, the best way.

On TBN we try to point you in the right direction and suggest questions to ask your tractor dealer.

Tractors are theft prone. Make sure you have secure tractor storage, preferably with humidity control.

Remember the ROTO-TILLER! You will get it cheaper if you negotiate tiller price as part of tractor purchase.