How Nice is a Metal Band Saw?

[2manyrocks]

After looking at an internet auction picture of another Duracraft bandsaw with your model number, it looks like any other asian 4x6 bandsaw. Although there are some variations in these saws, allegedly many of them are the same except for the name plate.

If the bushings you ordered don't work, you might see if the part you need is available from Harbor Freight or Jet. Jet might actually have the part.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I tried the Jet site, but I didn't find a good analog to my saw. I looked at a few of the HF saws too with the same result. There may be something out there, but I didn't spend the time to find it.

I placed the order this morning for busings. I had to get creative as the space requires a 28mm long bushing, but McMaster didn't have anything that long. I ended up with a combination of 4 different bushings that all add up to 12mm X 20mm X 28mm. I also bought the saw blade from McMaster. I decided on a bi-metal anti-vibration blade. I have no experience. That just seemed like the best blade based on what I've read on TBN and on the McMaster site. The combination of durability and broader range of uses seemed like a good value for the extra cost vs. hard-carbon steel.

All told, I'm out $23.78 for the bushings and the blade. I'll post back next week after I get the stuff to let everyone know if it works.

 

[whateg0]

Wow! You've had that saw awhile now, huh? Check your PM.

Dave

 

[MillWeld]

I bought a KT (Taiwanese) saw 30+ years ago. I've used it almost daily in my home shop and have had no trouble with it. Replaced guide bearings once. It uses 64.5" blades (easy to get), cuts 6" x 4" so it is small (but heavy). I use it more than any other tool in my shop. So I think it is very nice.
Bob

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Very nice! A metal band saw is very nice!

I got the parts and pieces today, and I put the whole thing together. It took me about an hour. The inner bushings fit the shaft great, but after I had to press fit the bushings (read: bludgeon with a hammer and block of wood) into the wheel, the ID was a little tight. I used a fine grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to hone the inner bushings a little at a time until I got a tight, but comfortable fit. It took maybe 10 minutes of honing.

It took me a bit to get the saw all set up right... blade tension, position the rollers, etc. Once I got everything set, though, I made a half dozen or so cuts, and never lost a blade. That's why the guy sold it to me. It kept throwing blades.

I'm very impressed with the quality of cut, and It cuts faster than everyone in this thread led me to believe. All in all it's a good setup. It will likely be my first preference for cuts from on. One thing I'm going to need now, though, is a set of adjustable stands to hold the tail end of the piece I'm cutting.

I've included an action shot of the saw in the process of cutting through a scrap of angle I had lying on the shop floor.

 

[sandman2234]

That LOOKS EXACTLY like the saw I got in the package when I purchased my Bridgeport from a friend. Different brand name, but durn sure the same saw. Mine has been dropped several times and fixed at to make it work, but is still on it's last legs, but it still keeps cutting. I came across 2 more similar ones at a moving the shop sale and bought them, gave first choice pick to another friend and made his day, with a cheap saw that he just loves. I still haven't used my backup cause the old one keeps on kicking, plus I have a 20" Roll-in Vertical saw that takes away some of the load.
Nothing better than a bandsaw, cheap or otherwise.
As far as people talking about the bearings being shot on a bandsaw if the wheel moves around, my Roll-in has quite a bit of play in the top wheel, but it is there by design, not wear. When the blade is tracking correctly, the wheel runs as true as it should.
David from jax

 

[MillWeld]

Looks just like mine, too - down to the color. Happy cutting for many years.
Bob

 

[tlbuser]

One thing I'm going to need now, though, is a set of adjustable stands to hold the tail end of the piece I'm cutting.

Try using your truck jack stands. Roller stands aren't really necessary for this application and jack stands can fill multi roles in the shop.

 

[sandman2234]

Very nice!

I'm very impressed with the quality of cut, and It cuts faster than everyone in this thread led me to believe. All in all it's a good setup. It will likely be my first preference for cuts from on. One thing I'm going to need now, though, is a set of adjustable stands to hold the tail end of the piece I'm cutting.

Shame you live so durn far from me, as I have several sets of roller bed (roller conveyor) that works pretty good for what you are doing. You really don't need adjustable, as the height of the saw never changes, and you just set the rollers at that height. I purchased a bunch of the rollers used, stripped them out of a semi-trailer and dragged them home. Sold some to recoup some of the $$ invested and stashed a bunch of the rollers on a shelf in the garage. The frames sit outside, but I still have a bunch with rollers that are sitting outside going to waste. Durn shame you don't live closer!
David from jax

 

[600rider]

How handy is a bandsaw? HOW HANDY IS A BANDSAW?!!! I bought mine from HF in 1997 for $129.99 and wouldn't sell it for that now!!!!! IMO it is the best way to cut steel in my shop!

Iplay, you will wonder what took you so long to get a bandsaw and also what took you so long to get this one going!!! Like I said earlier I love my cheap HF bandsaw and would not be without it. I lost the motor a while back and was lost without it until I got a new one. It was my fault the motor went as I started it up and left the shop for a few minutes and it stalled in the work piece and burnt up, if I had been there I would have stopped it and unjammed it. I go so far as to have several extra blades hanging arround so I dont have to run and get one (usualy goes after tsc is closed!) I was looking at mine and the date on it saws 1997.

I see in the picture of yours it has a hole to the right side of the table. Get yourself a 1/2" dia. rod about 24" long and make a stop so you can make repeated cuts without having to measure everyone. I have a stand I bought at the scrap yard I go to all the time and it is adjustable but no roller. I realy dont think you need a roller but thats up to you. I wish I had gotten two of them at the time but I like tlbuser sugjested but I dont think mine are tall enough but will have to check it out.