How to adjust a log splitter control valve?

[J_J]

If that is a return filter, you should follow the line back to the valve and it should connect to the OUT port on the log splitter valve.

If you use a hyd gage, you will know the pressure or not, and can use it for trouble shooting.

 

[jodebg]

Iv read the thread. Time should not be a factor on detent kick out - only pressure. - The strain on the engine should be just a fraction of a second. Are you running the engine at near the system rated RPM to enable full pump flow? Does it get worse or better as the fluid warms up?
larry

The delay drags out as the engine strains.

Don't know how to answer your first question.

Oil temp does not matter.

Thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

Iv read the thread. Time should not be a factor on detent kick out - only pressure. - The strain on the engine should be just a fraction of a second. Are you running the engine at near the system rated RPM to enable full pump flow? Does it get worse or better as the fluid warms up?
larry

The delay drags out as the engine strains.

Don't know how to answer your first question.

Oil temp does not matter.

Thanks

Pressure should rise instantly when the ram hits the retraction limit. It should kick the valve to neutral so quickly that the engine throttle barely blips.. Apparently the pressure is not going quite hi enuf. This could be from the system relief being set a little low. Try a 1/2 turn inward on the screw that preloads the relief spring.
larry

 

[jodebg]

Pressure should rise instantly when the ram hits the retraction limit. It should kick the valve to neutral so quickly that the engine throttle barely blips.. Apparently the pressure is not going quite hi enuf. This could be from the system relief being set a little low. Try a 1/2 turn inward on the screw that preloads the relief spring.
larry

Larry- Is there a screw that is a screw on this valve and where can I find it? Thanks-John.

 

[J_J]

If you would install a hyd gage in the IN port, you could solve many of your problems.

There is probably a set orifice that allows the pressure to build and kick the lever back to neutral.

If you plan to keep that valve, you need to find the kick out orifice and clean it out or throw that valve away and get another valve.

I posted a valve replacement above.

 

[SPYDERLK]

In post 4 J_J included a link to your probable valve. The parts diagram shows where the pressure relief valve is. You have to remove a cap and turn a screw inside to adjust. The detent on that valve is verrry loosely speced, allegedly operating between 750 and 2000psi. The pressure relief is set at 2000 as delivered. If in your case the detent kickout is operating at 2Kpsi, your PRV setting is not suitable and must be raised a bit so the the PRV does not start to leak/bypass just before kickout.
larry

 

[J_J]

SPYDERLK

Although they say this in the link Pre-set kickout pressure of 750 psig to 2,000 psig (52 bar to 138 bar), also not sure why there is a variable.

I don't see anything adjustable to adjust the kick-out detent pressure. They say the detent is under the can at the back of the valve, but no adjustable parts visible except the main valve relief.

 

[SPYDERLK]

SPYDERLK

Although they say this in the link Pre-set kickout pressure of 750 psig to 2,000 psig (52 bar to 138 bar), also not sure why there is a variable.

I don't see anything adjustable to adjust the kick-out detent pressure. They say the detent is under the can at the back of the valve, but no adjustable parts visible except the main valve relief.

I think they have a questionably designed detent and its function is erratic. Theyre just giving themselves plenty of leeway. If it function on the hi side he will need a higher than 2000psi system pressure to kick it positively. ... so raise the relief pressure a little and lets see.:confused3:
larry