how to build your own custom backhoe subframe

   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #241  
Thx, JAXS.

What model Kubota, and how did the loader subframe fail? I have had or worked on a few regular Bs, and owned 2 of the industrial Bs (B20 and B21). The regular Bs are not very stout, and need a lot of help if sporting any backhoe, and the hoe should be no bigger than 6.5' IMO.
B1750hst. Subframe only extends 8" passed bellhousing connection resulting in cracked & warped coupling plate, busted out bellhousing holes,shattered clutch/pressure plate and damaged propeller shaft. If I succeed in repairing damage I will use info from this thread to fab brace extending to rear axle. A L2350 nearby suffered same fate 10 years ago and for lack of parts sat in barn since.
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #242  
I agree dfkrug, thanks for replying. So the weight of the hoe will be on the lower 3 pt arm(s) axel/rod, right next to the steel frame that also holds the ROPs as this is where the subframe in designed to mount. See picture below
 

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   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #243  
Sorry for the long delay. I finished the backhoe subframe. It's a woods bh650 to B2400. I ended up using part of a woods subframe for a b7800 I think and then extended it to my existing FEL as it has some brackets already welded on that worked great (see pic). I used 3x1.5 channel in 1/4 for the extension and 3x.25 plating as reinforcements. Rear height is 9 inches to the bottom of the subframe.

This design uses the existing 3pt rod in the rear and hangs on it. The 3pt arms have to be removed to install. I painted it kubota bright II orange and then cut some labels to match (and yes I kept the OEM stickers on the base as well as cutting a new Woods for it too :) . But I liked the Kubota on the boom so that I left.

As a side note it works fantastic for cutting firewood out of heavy logs. I chained a logging grapple to the bucket and am able to pull around and lift 12-24 inch diameter logs in considerable lengths. I then just buck them when in the air. I used a boom pole for this last year but the hoe is much faster as it can maneuver itself as the boom pole required the tractor to be moved around instead.

Paid $1500 for the hoe, $200 in metal... and $60 in paint.
 

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   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #244  
Oh, and yes the ROPS gets in the way if you use the chair. Next up is extending the OEM ROPS up 12 inches and putting a folding plate system in as well at the 2 ft mark on the existing ROPs.
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe
  • Thread Starter
#245  
Paid $1500 for the hoe, $200 in metal... and $60 in paint.

...and the experience, priceless. Looks good!

There are lots of good deals out there for orphaned backhoe attachments. Prices are way lower than they were 20y ago, prob due to the explosion of cheap Chinese excavators. There are things my backhoe can do that my mini-X can not (dig harder/deeper, and move faster).
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #246  
Not many tractor owners are willing to go thru the process of making a
custom subframe to mount a backhoe attachment securely to their tractor.
I want to encourage anyonewho is reasonably handy to consider doing
this....it is very rewarding, and you can endup with a TLB setup that
comes close to what you would get if you had a factory-integrated
Tractor-Loader-Backhoe. A custom subframe can be built BETTER than an
add-on subframe from a maker of hoe attachments. More on that later.

I get asked to build a subframe for someone else's tractor now and then. I
never take them up on the offer, but I am happy to show them how I do it.
I have helped some folks long distance, but that is difficult. I want to use
this thread as a go-to place for those considering the fabrication of their
own subframe. In my approach to design and fabrication, I always want to
have both the hoe and the tractor here: measure 3 or 5 times, and cut only
once, hopefully. I have learned a lot about backhoe attachments and
subframes by owning and making them, and by analyzing the many samples
I have seen. I have a large database of hoe attachment specs, but I
am always looking for more data and new ideas.

In this thread, I will show the process I went through to design and fabricate
a subframe to attach a Prairie Dog 7.5 backhoe attachment to a John Deere
4300 tractor. I will use this and other examples of subframes to illustrate
different design approaches. Comments and questions are welcome.

But first, I want to discuss the basics.

What is a subframe? It is a structural member(s) that is rigidly tied
with welds, bolts, or pins to the main structure of the tractor. The
subframe rigidly transmits the forces from the implement to multiple parts
of the tractor's structure. By distributing the forces caused by the
implement, the tractor is protected from excessive concentrated forces, including excessive tension as well as destructive bending moments.

Subframes are used as a superior way to mount a backhoe, instead of
using the Three Point Hitch (TPH). There are many cases where a
Category 1 TPH has been used to successfully mount a backhoe.
There are also numerous documented cases where TPH-mounted hoes
have broken the toplink mounts, or cracked tractors in half. That is
no news to TBN members. Subframe-mounted hoes can also provide a
better integrated tractor with the hoe mounted much closer in to the
rear of the machine. A closer-mounted hoe will increase the minimum
departure angle, which is a fancy way of saying it won't hit the
ground as often when driving through a depression, or onto a trailer. Some
off-the-shelf subframes do not mount the hoe any closer than a TPH mount,
however. A closer-in hoe mount will also improve a tractor's drivability.
If a large weight it mounted far from the center of gravity of a tractor,
it will have what is called a high polar moment of inertia. This inertia
will resist changes in steering input.

In the first photo, I show the parts that comprise a 3PH hoe attachment
mechanism. On the left are the parts that are permanently bolted to the hoe.
The other parts comprise a much stiffer toplink, and brackets to keep the
lower 3PH arms (not shown) from rising. The second and third photos show
the same tractor on the 3PH, and on a Woods subframe, respectively. This
early Woods subframe does not mount the hoe any closer to the tractor
than the 3PH mount does.

Next: subframe types
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #247  
I don't know if this is the correct place to asks some questions about building my own custom backhoe subframe so here goes. I have a 2012 55hp McCormic with cab & front loader with subframe & am looking for your advice. Because it has a cab this will require the backhoe to be rearward more for the seat to clear the cab. Would it be better if most of the extension be on the backhoe or doesn't it matter? This tractor weighs about 8800 with front loader & beat juice filled rear tires. Would you have any ideas as to what size hoe to be looking for. Should I be looking for weight of the hoe or mated to HP of tractor? I have heard a lot of discussion about the tractor breaking in half. How concerned should I be about this with a 4 point subframe? I have a machine shop with CNC's that will cut 24 x 48 plate & the ability to design. It just makes more sense to get reliable answers before jumping into this.
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe
  • Thread Starter
#248  
Should I be looking for weight of the hoe or mated to HP of tractor?

Tractor HP is very secondary to weight. Your tractor is heavy enough to handle a hoe attachment that weighs as much as 2000# if you mount it to a strong enough subframe. I would look for an attachment in the range of 7-5-10.5-foot dig depth.

I talk about the options you have in making a decent subframe in this long thread. If your tractor has a CAT2 hitch, you can probably get away with a smaller hoe on the 3-point hitch with anti-lift toplink. CAT1, no way.
 
   / how to build your own custom backhoe subframe #249  
It sounds like you're dealing with some serious mechanical challenges, especially with the subframe and coupling plate issues. Your plan to repair and fabricate a brace shows resourcefulness and determination. It's interesting to note the similar fate of the L2350 years ago, highlighting the importance of innovative solutions, much like the durability and adaptability seen in metal buildings in Nevada. Best of luck with your repairs and modifications!
 
 
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