How to determine optimal tongue weight

[joshuabardwell]

Anyone even consider a weight distributing hitch? Most reciever hitches are only rated for 500 lbs of tongue weight and 5000lbs trailer weight, but with weight distribution a 1000 tongue and 10000 trailer. You also need to add the weight of the trailer itself.
Look at your hitch it will state its capacities. I see folks on the highway all the time with improper rigging. Is it worth risking your investment on improper rigging. Insurance companies will and can deny your claim if you haul with an unsafe or overloaded setup.

I use one. Wouldn't tow over about 3500 lbs without it.

 

[joshuabardwell]

But face it, most people aren't going to spend $500 to $800 for a Weight Distributing Hitch.

I paid less than $200 for mine, used off Craigslist. You can get a 10k WD hitch new for under $300.

 

[CurlyDave]

CurlyDave, I have never heard of air bags blowing out. I have see where installations of air bags were just T'd and the air would squeeze from one side to the other. In the event of your trailer pitching (which really shouldn't be happening to the extremes you mentioned) and slight load shifting from left to right (or the other direction) I can see one air bag over inflating. Air bags shouldn't be installed that way. Not sure about your installation....

My air bags were properly installed. Each one was individually inflated. I read about the problems of T'ing the air supply and how this gives no help against rolling motions of the trailer. Made sure I didn't do that.

If the airbag blowout wasn't caused by trailer pitching motion, the only other potential cause would be a bump causing an upward motion of the rear axle of the truck.

 

[megaboz]

My air bags were properly installed. Each one was individually inflated. I read about the problems of T'ing the air supply and how this gives no help against rolling motions of the trailer. Made sure I didn't do that.

If the airbag blowout wasn't caused by trailer pitching motion, the only other potential cause would be a bump causing an upward motion of the rear axle of the truck.

I was purely speculating that this could be the case based on an experience my buddy had when his were installed the first time.

My only other guess would have been a sudden downward pressure increased the pressure until it burst.

 

[schmism]

if only there was an almost exact same thread....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...4394-determine-tongue-weight.html#post2963607

yep it works.....

 

[Raw Dodge]

I have used air bags in the past, but after some bad experiences, have started to dislike them and have modified the way I use them. I have a WD hitch I use on all my trailers. Truck was a 2000 F-150.

Bad experience #1:

Inflate air bags to 80 psi (100 is manufacturer's max) and take 6'x12' dump trailer to dump. Load is ~8000 lbs. for both trailer and payload. Almost get there when there is a loud bang and one of the air bags blows out. Blown out bag scrapes against tire causing tire damage. Serious roadside modification of the remains of the bag with a 2' pry bar is required before metal parts of air bag can be moved away from tire to prevent even more tire damage. This is not a fun field modification with traffic whizzing by at 60 mph. Fortunately dump is only 3-4 miles further and I can limp in there and dump the load so I can get home with a much lighter trailer.

If your blown airbag was hitting your tire,and caused tire damage,it was improperly installed! I have used airbags for 20 years,and never blew one out,ever,and i routinely run my latest set (firestone) at 100psi to level out huge loads with no trouble.
As for WD hitches,they are primarily designed for long trips and highway use. They are of little value for short trips,uneven roads,and for loads that are not always the same such as dump trailers,or car haulers where tongue weight varies.They also are not good in sharp turns,and require a good amount of knowledge to properly adjust. Over adjusting to compensate for too light a rear suspension can be a deadly mistake,as too much weight gets removed from the rear axle of tow vehicle.It may break traction in a turn,accelerating from a stop on hills,and when stopping esp on slow downs with turns.IMO,the best setup for most equipment towing around town and short trips is a heavy duty class 5 receiver and an 8 ton pintle/ball combo hitch....I use this setup on my GMC 2500HD,and it just works for everything exc my travel trailer,which I do use a WD setup on if im going further than a few miles down the road as it has 1300lbs tongue weight.I bought a Curt Class 5 2.5" receiver hitch,as my stock one was only a 7500/12000.The Curt is an 1800/18000 weight carrying,and same rating WD..I can easily yank my loaded 14K dump trailer with confidence,and know that I have the correct hitch and insert to handle the shock loading of a full load of wood,and normal use,crossing railroad tracks,potholes,etc...