How to level load of stone

swreeder · Jun 17, 2021

Greetings,

I'm getting ready to have a 24x20 run in shed built for my tractor. For that to happen, I had enough stone delivered to level out a 26X22 area.

I've got my tractor, FEL, 5' box blade and a 6' land plane. Any tips on how to spread it out and get it level on that size of an area and what is the best implement to do this? Seems like it will be fairly easy to spread it around, just not sure how to get it level for them to build on.

CausticUrbanCoast · Jun 17, 2021

Stakes, string, level, and a 2x4 or 2x6. Laser level is hard to see in sunlight so the stakes and string work.

the old grind · Jun 17, 2021

Dig in and spread with the FEL bucket first then level. If you just push/spread the pile into position you'll have gravel in the corners and the fines concentrated in a heap where they were dumped. btw, I usually spread/grade 5-15 yds of crushed concrete or limestone at a time. Varies by the job/area but my method is always the same.

Thomas · Jun 17, 2021

I would use the front loader to somewhat level stones than back drag with bucket.

workinonit · Jun 17, 2021

It's funny how everyone goes about things differently. There's no doubt the loader is needed to move the material to places it needs to go and if you have float it can back drag. But my weapon of choice for leveling material is that landplane. I can't tell you how many yards of material I've leveled with a homemade plane. So much so that I'm building myself one now. If the blades are set to cut 1 to 2 inches you can use draft control and it is truely magic how easy it is to level material. I've never used a production landplane before. The homemade one I borrowed and the one I'm making have opposing blades. Perfect for leveling.

RalphVa · Jun 17, 2021

swreeder said:
Greetings,

I'm getting ready to have a 24x20 run in shed built for my tractor. For that to happen, I had enough stone delivered to level out a 26X22 area.

I've got my tractor, FEL, 5' box blade and a 6' land plane. Any tips on how to spread it out and get it level on that size of an area and what is the best implement to do this? Seems like it will be fairly easy to spread it around, just not sure how to get it level for them to build on.

Dump while moving and then use the back side of the FEL to level it out. Try different angles. Generally 30-45 degrees works. I did 22 tons as the 1st job for the 4010 way back in 2004.

the old grind · Jun 17, 2021

Landplane can be great for long lanes/driveways esp to blend edges but can be awkward when doing a raised pad to build on.

bdog · Jun 18, 2021

I would get it close to level before you bring in the rock otherwise you might end up with little or no rock on the current high areas.

Getting things smooth by eye is pretty easy. Getting things level by eye is not. You really need a laser or some other instrument to assist you.

I have a parking area behind my house that is roughly 100' x 200'. I always assumed it to be more or less level. It certainly was nice and smooth. I ran a laser on it and there is over a foot drop in the 100' direction and about 2' drop in the 200' direction. I kept the slope and adjusted the laser to compensate and then spread my gravel on the desired thickness.

nyone · Jun 18, 2021

Your 3pt attachments will be almost useless in a 22-26ft long stretch. Just use the fEL. Back drag with the back of the bucket.

skipmarcy · Jun 18, 2021

Down in FL on the postage stamp sized residential lots of sand a boxblade and hydraulic top & tilt are king for the pros. That's what I've used for all my building sites at my place here over the years (I don't have hyd tilt, just toplink). Have used my bucket back-dragging some but not very much, the boxblade handles 95% of it. Don't have a fancy laser level but I do have a builder's level on a tripod and made a multi use holder for the rod to be able to work by myself, just gets tiring getting on & off the tractor.

s219 · Jun 18, 2021

What type of stone? That makes a huge difference in how I approach jobs like this.

swreeder · Jun 18, 2021

3/4" crushed limestone, with no fines in it.

deezler · Jun 18, 2021

I'm with bdog, level the dirt out (and ideally compact it) before you put the stone on top. Then it's just a matter of visually distributing the stone in an even layer. Definitely good enough for a run-in shed at that point, anyway.

I probably would have leveled and compacted the dirt beforehand, and then had the dump truck driver tailgate spread it for me in two strips. How much did you get, somewhere around 5 yards I would guess?

In any case, 3/4" limestone without fines is real easy to shove around if needed. What do you have on the 3-pt now? Just use that, lol. No need to overthink it.

swreeder · Jun 18, 2021

Where I live there is no leveling of dirt here. At most, there is only 2-3" of topsoil anywhere on my property. The spot I have picked is on a limestone shelf that has a 2" slope from front to back and about 3" off side to side. The barn builder wants the site level to have a successful build.

CausticUrbanCoast · Jun 18, 2021

Stake your levels so you know when the 2" is out.

arrow · Jun 18, 2021

I once had to fill in a 60x120 ft riding ring with fine gravel as a first layer for drainage.
The way I did it was to first dump loads across the beginning of the ring.
I then leveled these first loads to the grade I wanted by eye.
I used this initial leveling as a marker to spread the rest of the material dumping load after load just after my previously leveled area and using that area as a yard stick so to speak, to do the rest of the 7200 sq ft.
I used the fel exclusively.
Since the builder wants a level perimeter, you can do simply stake out as the above pic illustrates and simply finish off this area with a rake if you have to.

s219 · Jun 18, 2021

swreeder said:
3/4" crushed limestone, with no fines in it.

View attachment 702891

That self-compacts, so you really just need to lay it where it has to go and do some minimal spreading and leveling. Very easy to work with.

s219 · Jun 18, 2021

BTW, if the shed will be built as a pole barn, it's easier to bring in the stone after the posts holes are drilled and posts set in the ground. If you do it before, you're going to need to clear the gravel away before the post holes can be drilled, and you will mix in the spoils from digging with the gravel and make a mess. Whenever I have to prepare a pad for a pole barn, I do my leveling to the subgrade (bringing in compactable dirt fill if needed) and then the gravel comes after the posts have been set (sometimes much later, barn may even be complete).