How to read a Span Table???

[MossflowerWoods]

How do I interpret this...

General. All exterior walls shall be supported on continuous solid or fully grouted masonry or concrete footings, wood foundations, or other approved structural systems which shall be of sufficient design to accommodate all loads according to Section R301 and to transmit the resulting loads to the soil within the limitations as determined from the character of the soil.

Footings shall be supported on undisturbed natural soils or engineered fill.

Exception: One-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses and similar uses, not exceeding 256 square feet of building area, provided all of the following conditions are met:

1. The building eave height is 10 feet or less.
2. The maximum height from the finished floor level to grade does not exceed 18 inches.
3. The supporting structural elements in direct contact with the ground shall be placed level on firm soil and when such elements are wood they shall be approved pressure preservative treated suitable for ground contact use.
4. The structure is anchored to withstand wind loads as required by this code.
5. The structure shall be of light-frame construction whose vertical and horizontal structural elements are primarily formed by a system of repetitive wood or light gauge steel framing members, with walls and roof of light weight material, not slate, tile, brick or masonry.

 

[LD1]

How do I interpret this...

.

Pretty simple actually...

Exception: One-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses and similar uses, not exceeding 256 square feet of building area, provided all of the following conditions are met:

You are allowed to build up to 256 sq ft building pretty much by whatever means you want without having to do it on a foundation or other "approved" method. Which I am pretty sure post-frame construction is an approved method. Or do all the barns on the farms in your area have a concrete/block foundation?

1. The building eave height is 10 feet or less.

Pretty simple.

2. The maximum height from the finished floor level to grade does not exceed 18 inches.

You dont want that anyway right?

3. The supporting structural elements in direct contact with the ground shall be placed level on firm soil and when such elements are wood they shall be approved pressure preservative treated suitable for ground contact use.

.

Dont build on a mountain side and use PT for exterior lumber

4. The structure is anchored to withstand wind loads as required by this code.

Look up the code for your area. But I am pretty sure that a post-frame with posts anchored into the ground will be within code

5. The structure shall be of light-frame construction whose vertical and horizontal structural elements are primarily formed by a system of repetitive wood or light gauge steel framing members, with walls and roof of light weight material, not slate, tile, brick or masonry.

A post frame meets all of these requirements. IE; light construction, repetitive wood, etc. Just dont use a slate, tile, brick, or masonry for siding or roofing.

Vinyl, shingles, and metal all fall into the "light" category:thumbsup:

 

[Red Horse]

Red Horse and CrazyAl,

I want to make sure I am hearing you guys correctly. Are you suggesting I go get precast deck footings and just scrape away the top soil and set them on the clay?

This would be WONDERFUL and easy except for what about Frost? I've been told I need to go down 18" to pass the frost line...

David

Correct-You are not concerned about the frost issue as you are not putting anything IN the ground-therefore nothing to heave! Think of the shed as just floating on the ground. Does your whole yard "swell up" in the winter? No.

Case in point. We just placed a 28 x 52 double wide at our fairbgrounds. Now we can have 3 feet of frost easily if we don't get enough early snow cover. This thing sits on a level pad about 4-6inches of compacted asphalt millings and rests on dry block piers which sit on 2 x 2 HDPE pads for better weight distribution. To comply with state building code, it is secured to ground with steel strapping that connects to one inch steel rods driven about 3' into the ground at opposed 45 degree angles. This is to keep the wind from lifting the building.

Bottom line, no footings, no ground penetrations other than the rods that keep the building secure in the event of high winds.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Pretty simple actually...

Look up the code for your area. But I am pretty sure that a post-frame with posts anchored into the ground will be within code

A post frame meets all of these requirements. IE; light construction, repetitive wood, etc. Just dont use a slate, tile, brick, or masonry for siding or roofing.

Vinyl, shingles, and metal all fall into the "light" category:thumbsup:

LD1,

I agree, I thought it sou nded pretty simple also.

What is "Post Frame"?

If I am floating on piers, how do I anchor it against the wind?

Thanks,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Correct-You are not concerned about the frost issue as you are not putting anything IN the ground-therefore nothing to heave! Think of the shed as just floating on the ground. Does your whole yard "swell up" in the winter? No.

Bottom line, no footings, no ground penetrations other than the rods that keep the building secure in the event of high winds.

How many of the prefab concrete footings/piers should I use? (I assume these are just like deck footing/piers

Can you send pics of how you attached the dblwide to the "anti-wind" rods etc.?

Be well,
David

 

[Red Horse]

Here are pix of what I did today. this is a 10 x 12 saltbox roof storage shed.

 

[LD1]

LD1,

I agree, I thought it sou nded pretty simple also.

What is "Post Frame"?

If I am floating on piers, how do I anchor it against the wind?

Thanks,
David

Post frame is just another name for pole barn.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Post frame is just another name for pole barn.

I just checked the building codes for VA and "post frame" and "Pole barn" are not in it.Pole is only mentioned one time, for utility poles.

I assume that means ANYTHING GOES!!!

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

I am going to start a new thread later today on my actual plans and get some feedback from TBN.:thumbsup:

Here is a rough outline 200 square foot shed needs no permit. I can easily fit all 4 Harleyç—´ in a 10 x 20 as long as I have a 10 door centered on the 20 side (I can get any one I want out for riding without moving the others). I am planning to æ“¢loat the shed on prefab concrete footings like used in building decks.

Right now I have a couple specific questions
1 Do I need to remove the topsoil? If yes, how deep do I go? Do I need gravel?

1a When removing topsoil, I assume I use the FEL bucket (take off toothbar) and then just back drag the topsoil off? Or do I use the cutting edge and scoop it out (gently and only down a couple inches)?

2 How many footings? (I was thinking 5 each on the 20 side, and a couple on each 10 side).

3 How do I level either the footing or the PT foundation? Gravel under the footings? Shims? Scrape soil out from under the footing?

4 Where do I put the moisture barrier? Under the footings is my bet.

5 Do I need a central span to support the (PT 2x6 should EASILY span 10 or less, right?).

6 Do the 20 sides need to be a single 2x8? Or can I use two 10 boards? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to miter cutting the ends for a flush fit in the corners?

7 Can I put Tyvek or similar UNDER the ï½¾ plywood as a barrier, do I need PT plywood for the floor? I am considering that fancy Advantech flooring. My goal is to keep moisture and critters OUT of the shed. I was planning to also use liquid nails atop the joists to glue the flooring (and nail it also of course) to prevent squeaks and creaks & increase rigidity

What am I forgetting?:confused2:
Thanks in advance,
David

 

[B8FISH]

I would also suggest to check the zoning code on the number of "accessory" buildings you are allowed--sometimes it is only 2!