How to read a Span Table???

[MossflowerWoods]

I think you are going to have to kluge it up:confused2:

Are you still going the post route?? If so, just put one in the middle there @ 10' and use 2 10'boards. And since these RIM boards are going to be supporting the joists, I dont think a 2x8 rim will handle ALL the joists and weight of the load IF they are only supported 10' appart.

So if I am picturing this correctly, the 20' board will need 5 supports, every 5'. Wether it be 4x4's or peirs. And spanning the full 10' with the 2x6's on 12" centers is pushing it as well. I hope you plan on still running a mid support as well so the effective span distance of the joists is only 5' for them 2x6's.

And FWIW, a PT 2x8x20 up here @ menards is $16.49 to give you an Idea.

10'ers are 5.92ea

LD1,

You are SO Helpful sir!!! :thumbsup:

I've dropped to 10 x 20 (no permit needed)
I'm planning to use deck footers and float the whole thing on them.

I'm thinking 20 x 10 outer 2x8's with center rib with 2 10' 2x8's supported by footer's also (this is in the 20' direction). [added note - I'll just buy 3 20" 2x8's, the diff is only $4 each...]

I'm planning 15 footer blocks in 3 rows of 5.

I am planning to double the outer 20 x 10 with an inner 2x6 nailed every 6" in a stagger (The 2x8 sits in the cross on the footer, the 2x6 sits on the inside top.

Then I will hang basically 5' joists (actually 4' 5" joists if my top of the head math is right).

Am I smoking dope here?

THANK YOU AGAIN, your help has been awesome.
David

 

[LD1]

That sure sounds like that would work.

Allthough I'd rather see you put posts in the ground as opposed to floating. I like a building firmly anchored to the ground.

Personally, I'd set full length 12' 4x4's in the ground in 10' spans. And short ones (floor height) in-between them. Attach your rim boards to THEM. Then the joists.

When it comes time to build the walls, you already have the 4x4's 10' appart to attach the walls too.:thumbsup:

And in the long run, (them peir blocks aint cheap) it will probabally be very close in price. You shouldnt have more than $10 each hole on average with the post and concrete. How much are them peirs??

 

[MossflowerWoods]

That sure sounds like that would work.

Allthough I'd rather see you put posts in the ground as opposed to floating. I like a building firmly anchored to the ground.

Personally, I'd set full length 12' 4x4's in the ground in 10' spans. And short ones (floor height) in-between them. Attach your rim boards to THEM. Then the joists.

When it comes time to build the walls, you already have the 4x4's 10' appart to attach the walls too.:thumbsup:

And in the long run, (them peir blocks aint cheap) it will probabally be very close in price. You shouldnt have more than $10 each hole on average with the post and concrete. How much are them peirs??

LD1,

I almost wish I could just call you...

I have two 9or more) big over-riding problems.

#1 all the building locations are near buried primary electrical lines, and I am leery of any excavation. I wanted to do mount the floorframe and joists on 4x4 posts also. I was planning to build it like a dock, with probably the same 15 4x4 posts. But I MUST dig deeper than 18' each post due to frost line, and it all got overwhelming.

#2 I have a very limited distance for the ramp into the shed, and Harley's are heavy, and if the ramp is too steep my Wife will never get her bike out. Plus they will bottom out on the ledge going in, etc... I NEED to keep the floor height low as possible.

Possible #3 - related to the above, I am trying to make sure it will hold the weight of 4 Harleys, so I am shortening spans and planning 12" spacing etc... A bit of overkill maybe...

I too prefer firm foundations...

Cost is an issue, but I MUST get this built asap or the Harleys will sit in the carport all winter. So in effect Cost is not (much) of an issue,

I am trying to be smart as possible. That is not easy either:laughing:
David

 

[LD1]

I forgot about the burried lines:confused2:

I'd still perfer a concrete slab though. The cost of materials is going to be a wash. The concrete isnt going to be any more expensive than all of that treated lumber and flooring you are going to buy.

Personally, I'd just pour a slab and then anchor a PT 2x6 all the way around the perimeter laying flat. This gives you a wood surface to attack the wall studs, which would not need to be PT.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

I forgot about the burried lines:confused2:

I'd still perfer a concrete slab though. The cost of materials is going to be a wash. The concrete isnt going to be any more expensive than all of that treated lumber and flooring you are going to buy.

Personally, I'd just pour a slab and then anchor a PT 2x6 all the way around the perimeter laying flat. This gives you a wood surface to attack the wall studs, which would not need to be PT.

LD1,

Do I hire out the concrete or go rent/buy the tools and do it myself?

My wife would like concrete, and my DR has moved up my surgery to a week from Monday... I could build the walls and roof faster if the crete was already poured...

Too many decisions...

David

 

[LD1]

LD1,

Do I hire out the concrete or go rent/buy the tools and do it myself?

My wife would like concrete, and my DR has moved up my surgery to a week from Monday... I could build the walls and roof faster if the crete was already poured...

Too many decisions...

David

I dont see why you couldnt do it yourself. But then again, I dont know what you are capable of.
personally, I would use the tractor to dig down and remove the sod and level the area. Then build for ms out of 2x6. A 20x10 area is VERY managable with a helper. I wouldnt even rent any tools. For what it is, a 2x4x10 for your screed with a buddy helping on the other end. Then but a $5 trowel and hand finish. It doesnt have to be perfect, but it will still be better than wood and something you can be proud of.

And dropping to a 10x20 area, that is right at 2.5 yds. AND if you dig/level just right, no ramp would be needed. Have the slab just an inch or two above the grade. And about a month ago when I last checked prices, it was $90-$100/yd OTD. So...$250 and half a day for a nice pad vs How much and how long for a wood floor that still needs a ramp and set on peirs????

For me it would be a no-brainer. And even if you level the area and prep everyting and have a contractor do the pad, I dont see it even being more than $500, which is still reasonable compaired to the wood floor IMO

 

[MossflowerWoods]

LD1,

My wife LOVES this idea...

Questions...

1) I understand removing the top soil, but how do I "level" the ground? Is it just take a 4' level and scrape away (back drag?) the area that is high, and fill the area that is not?

2) Do I need a layer of gravel underneath the slab? How thick does the gravel need to be? If i level the gravel does that work? Do I need to vibrate the gravel to compact it?

3) The Bolts for the PT base board... How big? How Many, distance apart? How deep do I se them in the concrete?

4) If I'm doing 6" thick concrete, can I have 3" above grade? Can I pour something like a 6 to 10' ramp from grade up to the slab?

You keep making too much sense...
David

 

[LD1]

LD1,

...

1) I understand removing the top soil, but how do I "level" the ground? Is it just take a 4' level and scrape away (back drag?) the area that is high, and fill the area that is not?

I use a transit. But others here have metioned methods of using clear tubing and water.

You may want a little slope to the finished pad too. Maybe a few inches over the 20' sloping toward the door. It wont be noticable, but will prevent water from running in and settling against the back wall.

LD1,


2) Do I need a layer of gravel underneath the slab? How thick does the gravel need to be? If i level the gravel does that work? Do I need to vibrate the gravel to compact it?

Personal preference. In your case, only a light slab with a light load, I woulndt mess with the gravel. Gravel makes it stronger, and makes it easier to level. But if you have undisturbed clay after you scrape the sod off, you should be fin to just pour. But I would put down a vapor barrior (plastic). This will prevent the floor from sweatting as bad.

LD1,

3) The Bolts for the PT base board... How big? How Many, distance apart? How deep do I se them in the concrete?

Check your code and see if they have any info. I have not built like this (I use posts) But I would certainly think a 1/2" anchor every 2 or so feet should suffice. And I would pour the slab first. THEN do the bolts later. Red-head concrete anchors. You will need to borrow/rent/buy a hammer drill for this. They arent too expensive.

LD1,


4) If I'm doing 6" thick concrete, can I have 3" above grade? Can I pour something like a 6 to 10' ramp from grade up to the slab?

That is your own personal preference. You could probabally get by without even excavating and just building the form on top of the sod. But the Idea is to get it level WITHOUT fill. IE: you may not remove ANY material from the already "low" side, but will remove from the high side to bring it to level. This saves you from having to get a compactor, or waiting a few seasons for it to settle if you use "fill".

But either way you go, 4" with fiber is pleanty for a shed. You dont need 6". That is just over kill and a waste of $$. The ramp, you can do however you want. But it is hard to say how "I" would do it without actually seeing it first hand and knowing the slope and terrain. Those things dictate the best method.

 

[Chef Pa]

David,

A little $.02 if you're in a time crunch. Last pad I poured was pretty small, just a little over the concrete co's minimum. Pricing was fair but they only wanted to squeeze me in between larger jobs. Had to schedule a couple weeks out to get a day I could be there and have some help. May not be an issue where you're located, but worth a call or two to the concrete guys once you're close to a schedule. Good luck on the shed.

Greg

 

[lstinthot]

Levelling the area should be easy to do since you said you already have a laser level. If its the one that rotates, then use a yard stick to measure down to the ground where the mark shows up on the stick mark that height, just make all the measurements the same. find the spot you want to be the lowest then make all the rest match, plus the amount added for the slope from back of shed to front for drainage.

I would drive rebar down the middle of the pad spaced a few feet apart these can be used for helping get the right height in the center and provide some anchor to the ground to keep the pad from shifting.

When do you plan on starting this? I'm taking the tractor to Ashland/Montpilier area on Monday. Depending on how long it takes to dig a few stumps and level the area I could swing by to help prep the area.