How to Remove this Power Steering Hydraulic Hose

[bungerag]

If there is no clearance then it does make it darned hard to cut without removing the line. If I remember I will look at my MF 20C diesel which is identical forward of the rear axle and see where the lines are. I suspect I will have to replace them someday too.


Many hydraulic shops do not stock crimp on hose to tube fittings, meaning they would have to order them in for extra $$. They would have to be a darned well stocked shop. Also unless your good friends with the owner or have a well established relationship with the shop, sit down before they tell you the cost of what appears to be a simple hose replacement. Also some shops will only crimp on new tubing, as they do not want the liability of a failure. Sorry to sound pessimistic, but this is my experience.

The only tool you should need to install the flareless fittings are a displacement style pipe cutter, and two wrenches.
A 1/2" tube, 1/2" hose is $15.50 each.

https://www.zoro.com/parker-connector-zinc-pltd-steel-compxf-12in-8-8-gbu-s/i/G2442937/

Thank you -- I am keeping this in mind. For lurkers/those interested, I managed to get the entire run removed today by accessing the flare nut with a couple of wrenches through the battery compartment. It does still require some patience. The other end at the steering pump, however, required removing the alternator, belt, and disconnecting adjacent lines for maneuverability.

But it is off and going to the hydraulic shop tomorrow to see what they can do. If they get squirrely about crimping on the old tubing, or the cost is astronomical, I will be going with this method, or just replacing the entirety of the run with flex tubing.

This shop has done pretty good work for me in the past and have been pretty accommodating so I'm trying to stay hopeful.

 

[bungerag]

It is really tight around the orbital motor so hoses are most likely not viable. I know that anything under the dash on the 20C/30B is a pain to work on as MF welded the whole front console of the tractor up solid so its impossible to access anything. The previous owner on mine cut an access hatch in it. You can see in this the cover I made for it. It helps a lot, but access still sucks.

View attachment 3011144

Yes, but there is another flare nut joint further up along the right side of the battery compartment that a flex hose could be much easier to join up to.

 

[bungerag]

Update: @Sportsman762 was correct that it would be somewhat difficult to find a shop willing to do the repair. There is exactly one shop in my area that agreed to give it a shot. They welded on some JCI fittings and replaced the soft hose, making it a much more repairable situation in the future. With the farm exemption, this costed me $55 and some change, so probably more expensive than the Swagelok method.

I have to agree that Swagelok fittings probably are the better, easier, and cheaper solution here, and I will be performing that on the adjacent steering line that is configured the same way, and is just as old. But for now, it has solved my problem. Thanks to all who weighed in -- your help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Sportsman762]

this costed me $55 and some change

Thats a damn reasonable price. I am not sure if the swagelok method would be cheaper. Also appreciate posting a followup to the thread with the outcome. So many folks never come back to share what happened and that makes it difficult to find solutions when looking through old threads.

 

[bungerag]

Thats a damn reasonable price. I am not sure if the swagelok method would be cheaper. Also appreciate posting a followup to the thread with the outcome. So many folks never come back to share what happened and that makes it difficult to find solutions when looking through old threads.

For sure. I've scoured many forums and have always been frustrated with the fact that nobody ever reports the resolution -- which is why I make it a point to remember to do so.

I thought it was a damn fair price as well, and only took them about a half hour. It doesn't seem like a hack job either. Perhaps I'll share a picture when I get a chance.

 

[bungerag]

Also for lurkers: replacing the entirety of the run with flex hose, in my application, is not practical due to the bends in the steel line down at the steering pump. The only options are to have a shop perform the weld-on work that they did for me, swagelok/parker fittings with a new hose, or simply source a replacement line from a salvage or used parts dealer.

This would be the case for any of the MF 30 Industrials, or MF 235 tractors. If your model somehow had a straight run and has the clearance available, running flex hose could work -- but I suspect that this would be rare.