How to separate front tire knuckle to replace dust boot? L3800

[Bluegill2]

The tie rod end boots on our old L3750 have been torn for over 10 years, no problem.

A little Massey we have is 3-4 years old and both boots at the wheels are gone. Completely.

 

[Baby Grand]

Sometimes a little (as in not enough to melt the boot) heat and a sharp whack on the "donut" that the tapered end fits through with a 2# sledge will separate them. A little PB Blaster/Kroil/Liquid Wrench never hurts. Failing that, get the pickle fork and have at it as described above. Redbug had a great idea for keeping those little booties from getting torn in the first place:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/111337-home-made-tie-rod-boot.html

 

[crazyal]

There are a few tricks you can try to separate the tie rod end. You can loosen the nut and then use a floor jack on the nut and lift the front of the tractor up a little and then give the metal the tie rod goes through a whack with a hammer. This usually works well. But advise is to buy a tie rod/ ball joint separator. You could buy a HF one but I would spend a little more and get a higher quality one. I have this one, made by OTC (not my picture though). Most HF tools with threads seam to strip out or get damaged in other ways for me. But the OTC one has handled even the 1/2" impact with no problems.

 

[Herkypilot]

I had to replace a boot last year. I didn't separate the ball joint. Here's a link to the post. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/226307-changing-dust-boot-tie-rod.html

HP

 

[noobee]

Hi, have similar problem on my BX2360. The BX2360 has a ram that moves from side to side with a tie-rod end on each end. I have torn the boot on the left side. The boot covers the ball joint. I can get the part the tie-rod end that "pins" in to the part that holds the front axle off. But I am not able to remove the tie-rod end from the ram. I have replaced this part once before - so I may have created my own problem. I have ground down wrench the hold the ram to keep it from spinning and used a wrench on the tie-rod end, but I was unable to "break" it loose. So I tried bracing the wrench on the ram on the frame and using wise-grips on the tie-rod end. I tried using a mallet on the wise-grips. So far, the tie-rod end remains stuck in the ram. Any suggestions on the how to remove the tie-rod end.

Thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

Hi, have similar problem on my BX2360. The BX2360 has a ram that moves from side to side with a tie-rod end on each end. I have torn the boot on the left side. The boot covers the ball joint. I can get the part the tie-rod end that "pins" in to the part that holds the front axle off. But I am not able to remove the tie-rod end from the ram. I have replaced this part once before - so I may have created my own problem. I have ground down wrench the hold the ram to keep it from spinning and used a wrench on the tie-rod end, but I was unable to "break" it loose. So I tried bracing the wrench on the ram on the frame and using wise-grips on the tie-rod end. I tried using a mallet on the wise-grips. So far, the tie-rod end remains stuck in the ram. Any suggestions on the how to remove the tie-rod end.

Thanks

Have someone use a blunt ended punch and hammer to strike the joint sharply as you try to turn it.
larry

 

[noobee]

Have someone use a blunt ended punch and hammer to strike the joint sharply as you try to turn it.
larry

Thanks - it may be a couple of weeks before I can try this.

 

[deadmoose]

Just as prev post said get the right tool. I went to auto parts store as my brother told me to. Had to replace tie rod on l3400. First tried to hammer, air hammer, and pry. Bought tool for $10 (could have rented for same price). Worked slick. Pull cotter pin take off nut and use tie rod separator. I wish I knew this up front. Would have saved lots of time.

 

[simonmeridew]

My left boot tore with 3 (yes, 3) hours on a new L4400. Same deal: brush poked it. I wrapped it with duct tape for a while till I got to the dealer. Like someone else said here a new boot was 10 bucks. Easy fix: taper fit into the steering knuckle. Jack up the ailing wheel,take off the nut, tap the side of the knuckle while pushing up on the tie rod part and off it comes. Be sure not, repeat not, to tap on the threaded part that the nut fits on. It will bugger for sure. count turns to realign, etc. Not a bad idea to just back the nut off a couple of turns so that any upward pressure or force is on the nut not the tapered threaded part.
simonmeridew

 

[Rail Dawg]

Guys I need some guidance here. I bought the pickle fork, took out the cotter pin and loosened the nut quite a bit (L3800). No matter how hard I hit the pickle fork I can't get the tie rod to separate. I have a large breaker bar but that isn't working either. Any suggestions? Is this a two-man job?

Thanks.