how to service and use a brush hog
- Thread starter rcrcomputing
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em14
Platinum Member
"So....basically to fill it, you Jam the pointy end of the Gear Oil container into the bottom hole, and sqeeze it until it comes out the top.... ?" I haven't seen this procedure before except on a outboard engine's gear case.. Normally you remove the plug from the "sighting" hole which sounds like your "stick the pointy end hole above" and you fill throught the top hole until lub starts to come out the sight hole. Then replace all plugs and start cuttin'.
Leo
Leo
OP
rcrcomputing
Platinum Member
About the third or forth post from the top, birdman explains to fill at the top and fill to the hole on the side.
colestin
Bronze Member
I am about to go through the same thing as rvcomputing, so you all have saved yourself having to type this stuff twice. My 6 foot Bush Hog is still perched on top of Cyd the farm truck. I will read the entire manual before doing anything else, but the whole "length of top link" issue seems like the hardest part to me. With any luck you have all covered the subject perfectly and both rvcoputing and I will be off and running. One question, though; When I hear you talk about mowing brush, saplings, etc, does that mean you drove over that stuff in FWD before the mower got to it? I had planned to back into the berry bushes.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> When I hear you talk about mowing brush, saplings, etc, does that mean you drove over that stuff in FWD before the mower got to it? I had planned to back into the berry bushes. </font> )</font>
I would back into the saplings etc...that way your bush hog can push them down and then chop them up as you back into them thus avoiding some possible damage to your tractor.
Just go out there and try it and you will learn as you go.
Now smaller stuff you can drive over and mow,but the larger stuff I would back into it.
I would back into the saplings etc...that way your bush hog can push them down and then chop them up as you back into them thus avoiding some possible damage to your tractor.
Just go out there and try it and you will learn as you go.
Now smaller stuff you can drive over and mow,but the larger stuff I would back into it.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One question, though; When I hear you talk about mowing brush, saplings, etc, does that mean you drove over that stuff in FWD before the mower got to it? I had planned to back into the berry bushes. )</font>
As Cactus said, the taller, tougher stuff is usually best backed into. And keep in mind that backing into it slowly is a good idea too. You can actually cut a little larger material by backing a little, letting it cut some, back again and cut some, etc.
Another thing to remember is that when you ARE going FWD over things, sometimes it's a very bad idea to back up over the cut area as some things that weren't cut well can find it's way up into the bottom of your tractor. It's best to go ahead and go forward, cutting what you can and then dealing with the uncut, or partially cut stuff afterward so you can see just where and how high it comes up. I learned that one the hard way years ago. Sticks have a way of getting into places you just never would believe!
John
As Cactus said, the taller, tougher stuff is usually best backed into. And keep in mind that backing into it slowly is a good idea too. You can actually cut a little larger material by backing a little, letting it cut some, back again and cut some, etc.
Another thing to remember is that when you ARE going FWD over things, sometimes it's a very bad idea to back up over the cut area as some things that weren't cut well can find it's way up into the bottom of your tractor. It's best to go ahead and go forward, cutting what you can and then dealing with the uncut, or partially cut stuff afterward so you can see just where and how high it comes up. I learned that one the hard way years ago. Sticks have a way of getting into places you just never would believe!
John
colestin
Bronze Member
Great! Thanks, Cactus and Kiotijohn. I unloaded the beast from Cyd the Farm Truck and have looked it over. As suggested earlier in this thread, I am checking out how the PTO shafts attach, etc.. I have yet to use the PTO, but I'd best get familliar with it -- lots of mowing and post hole digging to do soon!
PineRidge
Super Member
Don't know if its been mentioned or not but when I use the rotary cutter on a section of tall stuff thats not been mowed before sometimes I like to use the FEL bucket set kinda low as a feeler of sorts for junk that doesn't need to be hit. I have found old tires, cinder blocks, and other debris that way even before the mower has a chance to destroy the shear bolt.
I still carry lots of extra shear bolts though, just in case. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I still carry lots of extra shear bolts though, just in case. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
Here's my new check plug (the bolt you'll see in the picture) for the miserable, tiny, soft-metalled thing that JD provided in my LX4 gearbox.
I just sent an e-mail to my dealer about this with the attached picture.
They could save money by eliminating the top check plug and just use the vent hole. The vent is the only thing of quality among the 3 screw-in connections provided.
Ralph
I just sent an e-mail to my dealer about this with the attached picture.
They could save money by eliminating the top check plug and just use the vent hole. The vent is the only thing of quality among the 3 screw-in connections provided.
Ralph
Attachments
HomeBrew2
Banned
""""Now, throw away the top link and put a chain in there, a little slack.""""
Ralph, I read and re-read and thought about that statement while I cut 2 acres, trying to get a "finish" cut. I just didn't quite get the picture. So, I wound up going over the "uphill" parts of humps in my mowing area sideways to get the hog to cut. I had adjusted the top link to set right in the center of the oval of the top connection frame. That oval is not near enough "slack". On the last 1/100th acre that I had to mow, I loosened the top link all the way ... it surely picked up all the back-slope areas that I was missing before.
Also, many thanks to Soundguy for input on finish mowing with a hog. Specifically, sharpening the blades to a greater extent than for general purpose work. I have an old MTD garden mower/tractor that I sharpen the blades pretty sharp ... I sharpened the hog blades less than I do for the MTD and it made a world of difference. And, thanks to Soundguy for an old thread explaining, in detail, how to use chains to limit the front height of an implement ... a key factor to getting a good cut, with no hang-ups, with a hog. Thanks again to both of you.
Ralph, I read and re-read and thought about that statement while I cut 2 acres, trying to get a "finish" cut. I just didn't quite get the picture. So, I wound up going over the "uphill" parts of humps in my mowing area sideways to get the hog to cut. I had adjusted the top link to set right in the center of the oval of the top connection frame. That oval is not near enough "slack". On the last 1/100th acre that I had to mow, I loosened the top link all the way ... it surely picked up all the back-slope areas that I was missing before.
Also, many thanks to Soundguy for input on finish mowing with a hog. Specifically, sharpening the blades to a greater extent than for general purpose work. I have an old MTD garden mower/tractor that I sharpen the blades pretty sharp ... I sharpened the hog blades less than I do for the MTD and it made a world of difference. And, thanks to Soundguy for an old thread explaining, in detail, how to use chains to limit the front height of an implement ... a key factor to getting a good cut, with no hang-ups, with a hog. Thanks again to both of you.