Ballast How to take off ballast box on BX2380

[Cjreich]

I know this question is probably like asking a plumber how to turn on a faucet, but here goes. I need to take the ballast box off my kabota bx 2380 that I recently acquired. How do I do that? i am having trouble with the side arms that attach to the box. After removing the pin I can't get them to move out far enough to disconnect the box.

 

[Fallon]

Probably need to loosen up the stabilizers that keep the 3pt lift arms from flopping side to side. Not sure what yours look like, but my L3200 had turnbuckles outside the arms, the L4060 has pinned bars on the outside. Vs & Bxes might have stabilizers on the inside though.

I keep my stabilizers tight all the time. I also have a Quick Hitch so never need to loosen them to remove impliments. Generally better to not let the impliments flop around though if you can help it.

 

[ZTMAN]

Fallon is correct. There are stabilizers on each side of the lift arms. They adjust by the turnbuckles. Just loosen them a little and you should be able to remove the ballast box.

I assume you have the three point down so the ballast box is on the ground. If not, that is your problem.

After you get the box removed, run and get a quick hitch. You will be glad you did.

 

[jeff9366]

They are not "side arms" they are Lower Links. Use standard nomenclature so we are all on the same page.

The Ballast Box must be in contact with the ground to be dismounted. Level ground makes mounting/dismounting easier.

Even with stabilizers loose you may not be able to move the Lower Links out due to pressure from implement weight. Adjust the Top Link until the Top Link cylinder-fitting slides freely back-and-forth on the Top Link pin. Then implement pressure should be zero or near zero on on Lower Link/implement connection on one or both sides. After one side is free, the dynamic changes on uneven ground and you may need to adjust Top Link a second time. Feel free to vigorously apply a boot to spread Lower Links. You cannot damage Lower Links with a boot.

Having lubricant on all three implement pins assists mounting and dismounting implements. I use Fluid Film but lube type is not critical. In high humidity Florida Fluid Films works well as a rust preventive.

 

[RickB]

They are not "side arms" they are Lower Links. Use standard nomenclature so we are all on the same page.

Even with stabilizers loose you may not be able to move the Lower Links out due to pressure from implement weight. Adjust the Top Link until the Top Link cylinder slides freely back-and-forth on the Top Link pin. Then implement pressure should be zero or near zero on on Lower Link/implement connection on one or both sides. After one side is free, the dynamic changes and you may need to adjust Top Link a second time. Feel free to vigorously apply a boot to spread Lower Links. You cannot damage Lower Links with a boot.

Having lubricant on all three implement pins assists mounting and dismounting implements. I use Fluid Film but lube type is not critical. In high humidity Florida Fluid Films works well as a rust preventive.

There is no need to constantly scold people here. You were smart enough to understand what he meant. Let it go.

 

[dragoneggs]

Wow guys! Poor OP asked an innocent newbie question and you guys go to war. Hope OP doesn't get a bad impression of TBN being that was his first post!

Granted it is nice to use proper vocabulary but one can help without it too.

 

[ruffdog]

I find even with the telescoping type stabilizers on the lower links are limited to swinging far enough unless you pull the adjustment pin. Find a way to quickly pull a pin so the arm is free from the stabilizer chain. That way it can swing further away from your weight box pin.

 

[dragoneggs]

I find even with the telescoping type stabilizers on the lower links are limited to swinging far enough unless you pull the adjustment pin. Find a way to quickly pull a pin so the arm is free from the stabilizer chain. That way it can swing further away from your weight box pin.

Agreed. Make sure you have any 'load' off the connection pins. Maybe shoot some WD40 in the bushings too. Learning the pins/connections will be helpful for installing/removing implements.

Take some pics and post them if you can, and I am sure you will get more advice depending on the 3pt connection you have.

 

[Cjreich]

Thanks for your replies. They were helpful. My turnbuckles (sounds like All-star wrestling that I used to watch as a kid) are on the inside but I am guessing they work in the same manner as suggested by Fallon and ZTMAN. I did have the box on the ground so that was not the issue. I will give loosening the turnbuckles a try.

 

[dragoneggs]

Thanks for your replies. They were helpful. My turnbuckles (sounds like All-star wrestling that I used to watch as a kid) are on the inside but I am guessing they work in the same manner as suggested by Fallon and ZTMAN. I did have the box on the ground so that was not the issue. I will give loosening the turnbuckles a try.

Before you do, look at pulling a cotter pin and try disconnecting. That way you don't have to mess with adjustment of the turnbuckles.

 

[ruffdog]

Before you do, look at pulling a cotter pin and try disconnecting. That way you don't have to mess with adjustment of the turnbuckles.

Yep, that is what I was trying to say! :drink:

 

[HillStreet]

There is no need to constantly scold people here. You were smart enough to understand what he meant. Let it go.

Jeff was just putting everyone on the same page, don稚 think it was scolding at all.

 

[dalola]

OP, if you are changing implements frequently, consider a set of telescoping stabilizers. They replace the turnbuckles, and are much more user-friendly, as they only require pulling a pin to switch from stabilizing to adjusting/removing.

Mark Hodge, a member of this forum, makes an excellent product for the BX series.

 

[CobyRupert]

At least OP didn't get the: "You need to post your location!!" scold. (Perhaps cold (is it frozen?), heat, humidity, sea salt corrosion, etc... effects the answer!!)

Even if the stabilizers are loose and should allow the sidearms to swing free, a quick study shows they swing horizontally in a (slight) arc; whereas the sidearm needs to come off the attachment pin perpendicularly. This can be a problem.
Most of the time this arc is insignificant with light attachments that can wiggle on the ground. If sidearm can't swing along its arc it will bind on the attachment pin.
Sometimes the answer is a big hammer, or a swift kick, that moves the attachment (or the tractor) allowing the swing to continue.
Other times, with an attachment that is too heavy to "wiggle", having two people, one to very slightly move the tractor, unbinding the connection to the pin, as the other pulls, allows the swing to continue.
:2cents:

 

[dogrv]

An easy and cheap way to take the ballast box off on a concrete or hard surface is to pick up a movers dolly at Harbor Freight for $10 or so. I built a 2X4 frame and screwed it to the dolly. Just drop it on the dolly and unhook. Easy to move out of the way

 

[dragoneggs]

OP, if you are changing implements frequently, consider a set of telescoping stabilizers. They replace the turnbuckles, and are much more user-friendly, as they only require pulling a pin to switch from stabilizing to adjusting/removing.

Mark Hodge, a member of this forum, makes an excellent product for the BX series.

I have a pair... they make life simpler. Work great and good quality. Looking for a link here for reference but can't seem to find one.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Stabilworks

I have a pair on my '24. Exceptional.

[edit] Meant to hit the "quote" button. 'Eggs, no disrespect intended

Z.

 

[dragoneggs]

Stabilworks

I have a pair on my '24. Exceptional.

[edit] Meant to hit the "quote" button. 'Eggs, no disrespect intended

Z.

That's them! Thanks for posting... btw, Eggs and Eggy were my nicknames growing up. You brought back some memories! :thumbsup:

 

[Smokeydog]

Got a pair of generic telescoping stabilizers to replace the turnbuckles on B26 from eBay. Had to modify to work. Much stronger and easier than turnbuckles. Used extra parts to adapt leveling box to lower link and got rid of another troublesome turnbuckle. If you change implements frequently or do grade work it is so much better.

 

[bunyip]

I use a lump hammer to persuade the arms to move out, they go on easier than they come off.