how to test glow plug relay Cub Cadet 7360SS

[PaulWinLA]

I have a Mitsubishi MT225 tractor which is equivalent to a Club Cadet 7360SS and my glow plug system has stopped working. There is no light and no voltage to the glow plugs. I can not find any information relative to testing the glow plug relay. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Roadworthy]

I know nothing about your tractor, including whether it even HAS a glow plug relay. My Mitsubishi does not. You may be able to get a manual at Valley Power

 

[PaulWinLA]

Thank you, yes, my Mitsubishi does have a relay, it's laying here on my desk. I will check the link.

 

[Roadworthy]

Testing a glow plug relay is pretty much like checking any other relay. You apply power (twelve volts) to the low power leads, the relay actuates, and the resistance between the high current leads should drop to nearly zero. They're pretty much like my old Ford starter relay, just shaped differently.

 

[WranglerX]

Testing a glow plug relay is pretty much like checking any other relay. You apply power (twelve volts) to the low power leads, the relay actuates, and the resistance between the high current leads should drop to nearly zero. They're pretty much like my old Ford starter relay, just shaped differently.

Could not have not it better....

All one needs to know is which prongs/terminals connect to what internally...Many relays will have chart right on housing, some may not...

Dale

 

[PaulWinLA]

Thank you, I have the relay with no chart on it and no markings on the connector end of it. I will try a new relay, and if that does not work then I will bypass the relay and use a momentary push button switch to heat the glow plugs.

All one needs to know is which prongs/terminals connect to what internally...Many relays will have chart right on housing, some may not...

Dale[/QUOTE]

 

[PaulWinLA]

Thank you for the response, but I have no idea what any of the leads are as there is no markings at all on the relay.

 

[Roadworthy]

I surfed glow plug solenoids. The ones I found had two small terminals and two large terminals. When twelve volts is applied to the small terminals The relay should activate. That should connect the two larger terminals together completing the glow plug circuit. You may test it by energizing the smaller terminals. You should read very close to zero ohms across the two larger ones.

 

[Tx Jim]

I surfed glow plug solenoids. The ones I found had two small terminals and two large terminals. When twelve volts is applied to the small terminals The relay should activate. That should connect the two larger terminals together completing the glow plug circuit. You may test it by energizing the smaller terminals. You should read very close to zero ohms across the two larger ones.

I think your statement requires a clarification in that 1 of the 12 volt connections to smaller post should be positive & other smaller connection should be negative.

 

[PILOON]

Generally the large terminals are for the switched circuit while the small ones are for the coil.
Some versions will only have 3 terminals, 2 large and one small it being the positive and the relay body itself being grounded is the negative.

 

[WranglerX]

Any numbers on base of relay next to terminals?

Dale

 

[PaulWinLA]

No, nothing on the underside or anywhere else. I applied power to the 2 small tabs and the relay clicked but no voltage or ohms readinig, so I ordered a new relay. Thanks for the response.

 

[TnAndy]

You should read zero ohms....if the points in the relay are good, there is no resistance.

And unless the relay has only 3 terminals (one 12v +, one ground for the holding coil, one output to the glow plugs), the typical 4 terminal relay will not tap the holding coil circuit, so, yes, there will be no voltage. One purpose of a relay is to use a light gauge wire for the coil circuit, and a heavier wire to send current on out to whatever is on the working end of that circuit.

Use your meter to check continuity if you can. Engage the holding coil of the relay, check for continuity across the input/output terminals. Drop the holding coil out (take power off), continuity should stop.

Or connect 12v to one terminal of the input/output, engage the holding coil, put a test light on the other terminal to ground and see if it lights. If it does, relay is working. (could STILL have pitted contacts on the connection points, but if you read zero ohms, less chance of that....bad contacts generally show as some resistance to flow)

Assuming you find the relay good, next thing you'll need to check is for a timer. Many glow plug systems today use a timer in series with the relay to let power flow to the relay/glow plugs for a short amount of time, then shut the power off to them.

IF you have a glow plug light on the dash that comes on when you turn the key to the ON position, then it goes out after a period of 30 seconds to a minute, you have a timer. A bad timer could fail in the open position, never allowing current to flow to the relay.

A wiring diagram would be real handy in troubleshooting this situation.

 

[Industrial Toys]

If it was me. I would first try and find the coil if it was not burned out. Use an ohm meter and look for two pins that are not open or not shorted but with some resistance. Then try using a 12 volt source that won't blow up if shorted to see if you get a clicking. If you do, then use the ohm meter to find the contact terminals.

 

[PaulWinLA]

Thank you, I will consider this.

 

[PaulWinLA]

I will be waiting for the new relay, then proceed after installing it. Thank you.

 

[Black Lab Guy]

I have a Mitsubishi MT225 tractor which is equivalent to a Club Cadet 7360SS and my glow plug system has stopped working. There is no light and no voltage to the glow plugs. I can not find any information relative to testing the glow plug relay. Any help will be appreciated.

My second tractor is a 7360SS. I bought it when I lived in Fla and didn't need glow plugs to start. Then I moved to the top of a mountain in Tenn and it gets cold here in the winter. Glow plugs would not work even after replacing the relay and everything else shown on the wiring diagram. So I connected the bar that goes to all four plugs directly to the battery with heavy DC wire and a 60 Amp fuse. There is a on/off switch under the small door in the front of the hood. When it get cold it switch it on for 6-7 seconds. Since then I have never had a problem starting no matter how cold. It cost less than $50 for everything and was not hard to do.