How would you fall this?

[scaredychicken]

This is when I CALL A FRIEND, and call in a favour

 

[Snobdds]

Cut compression first and then the tension side. It will drop right down. Be on the high side of the tree and gravity will take it to the low side.

 

[rlipeles]

View attachment 748972
This cottonwood pulled it’s rootball and leaned over. I say leaned because it’s roots and a whole lotta earth are still attached. Then about 12’ from that it’s resting (left side of pic) on a berm built as a range backstop. Then you see the rest of this up in the air still. It is not supported to any degree by the limbs. Most of them are barely making contact with the ground. its held in space like this by the rootball still attached to the earth on the side it hinged down, the weight of the earth attached to the side that came up and where the truck is resting on the berm. It’s a big green tree.
I think my plan is to clear out a spot on the back of the berm where I have lots of room to escape and work free of obstruction. Notch the underside about 8’ from the rootball. And then slowly cut from the top down towards the notch. At some point it’s gonna want to have the heavy top start to bend down to the ground and the weighted root ball snap back upright.
I don’t know that I want to limb the top as I don’t know how much pulling up the root ball is doing vs the weight of the limbs holding it down.
lotta energy stored in this mess. Anyone else have thoughts on approach?

I'm thinking that the root ball will stay where it is. No snap back. You will probably need a machine to push the root ball back in place.

 

[CobyRupert]

Start cutting the “lower top” branches (on left in pic) that make contact with the ground and work towards the top of the tree (on right). You’ll going to know right away if they’re supporting the main trunk in the air or not.
Sometimes only a couple support the trunk and others are free. Be advised , if they are supporting the trunk, they can snap and whip or pinch your saw as soon as you start cutting them. Know which direction they want to whip and/or if the kerf is opening up as you cut or closing up on the saw.
If no tension in them they will just fall.
Usually doing this, the trunk will slowly lower itself inch by inch as each supporting branch is eliminated.
By starting low and cutting support limbs towards top you’re not adding as much tension to remaining supporting limbs than if you work in other direction as the top limbs are usually smaller and more bendy as trunk lowers.
Being still connected to the root ball and on berm means trunk may stay elevated after limbs touching ground are cut. This is idea for cutting up, but if too high, place some pieces of wood underneath trunk before you cut it at the stump so it stays off the ground when you cut root ball off.

 

[BradB]

Cut 4 acres of big fallen trees just like this, wicked storm came through, most of the stumps stood right up and fell back into the holes when cut at the roots. Made the mistake of cutting some in half first, then I had 15'-20' logs sticking up in the air, that made things more dangerous to drop IMO.
If you want to tackle this, clean up the tree top removing as many branches as possible without removing too much weight to keep the tree down. Then cut the trunk. I'm just a do-it-yourselfer so this is not a professional opinion, just learned from experience.
I never had some of the awesome equipment some of you have.

 

[scaredychicken]

are you expecting to save the root ball, and part of the trunk ?

IF it can be reached, I think attacking the root ball end (top to bottom) would make the most sense / safest method to free it. It can be prettied up, de-limbed, cleared later.

I'd still call for back-up

a natural catapult if cutting from the other end (add yard waste first)

 

[EdinLa]

Work on the rootball first! ......When you see the trunk start to lay down you know you are once again working with the gravitational energies of the tree. There is no way to know what kind of 'bound' energy is in the fall until you see it begin to move on its own. ....Bound energy could force that trunk to 'slab' on you during a cut, or create a wild shift in the log as you cut it.

 

[ohiogar]

I would limb it first. It is not gonna go downwards. I would pay
real close attention as i am limbing it to see if it raises upward as the limb weight lessens.
That should tell you how much pressure the stump is having on it.
If the stump is pulling up pressure then notch the top of the log down by the stump then up cut
till it starts squeezing thr bar then chop from the top down. finish with a chain on the trattor on the small end.
I would then leave as long of a pole out of the main part of the tree in case
I needed a long pole for something. A swinging target for your gun range maybe??
Or a rope swing into the pond??
Never burnt cottonwood so dont know if it is any good for firewood.
In my humble opinion

 

[fishhead]

I'm thinking that the root ball will stay where it is. No snap back. You will probably need a machine to push the root ball back in place.

As certified sawyer I can't agree, simply because i don't think we can see the rootball. I assume based on discussion in the thread (we all know about assumptions) that what i originally thought was the rootball is actually the berm. if it is the berm then,
Was the tree that fell over on the berm (doesn't look so) or was its base on the other side of the berm. if the first then it should snap up because the root tension is keeping the crown up. if the latter cutting near the berm will allow the significant weight on the other side to drop. All this being a WAG based on one unclear picture. More pics of the entire situation would generate a lot better answers.

But, if you don't have a very clear understanding of the loads/forces involved and how to mitigate them don't try to solve this yourself - find someone who does. Things like these could be simple/easy or deadly. The details and approach make all the difference.

One thing to do before taking pics- clear the area more- you will need to clear some for safety anyway and better viz will yield better armchair analysis.

 

[fishpick]

I'm gonna clear space near the base for sure - I'll send a bunch of pics whenever I get to doing this!

 

[Bob in W NC]

View attachment 748972
This cottonwood pulled it’s rootball and leaned over. I say leaned because it’s roots and a whole lotta earth are still attached. Then about 12’ from that it’s resting (left side of pic) on a berm built as a range backstop. Then you see the rest of this up in the air still. It is not supported to any degree by the limbs. Most of them are barely making contact with the ground. its held in space like this by the rootball still attached to the earth on the side it hinged down, the weight of the earth attached to the side that came up and where the truck is resting on the berm. It’s a big green tree.
I think my plan is to clear out a spot on the back of the berm where I have lots of room to escape and work free of obstruction. Notch the underside about 8’ from the rootball. And then slowly cut from the top down towards the notch. At some point it’s gonna want to have the heavy top start to bend down to the ground and the weighted root ball snap back upright.
I don’t know that I want to limb the top as I don’t know how much pulling up the root ball is doing vs the weight of the limbs holding it down.
lotta energy stored in this mess. Anyone else have thoughts on approach?

I have done quite a bit of this type and scale of work here in the mountains outside of Asheville. If I am interpreting your post correctly, this would be my approach.
Clear a walking route to where the tree rests on the berm. Make a 6" of so cut from the bottom on the right side of the berm contact point, in a comfortable and stable standing position, then finish the cut from the top down. Go slowly as you approach finishing that top down cut and gauge what is going to happen. Most likely just a quick uprighting on the root ball and base of tree. Then fell the base log if you wish, or leave it for habitat. Deal with the upper portion according to your skills and equipment.

 

[Kschwennsen]

cut from the top down on the trunk by the root ball slowly and let the tree settle as it's cut. Don't put your head over the saw when finishing the cut.

 

[Varmintmist]

Bottom notch where you can stand. Plunge cut everything leaving a tab about 2 inches or so thick on top, nip the tab.
Same as a leaner. I wouldnt be worried about a barber chair so much as the rootball figuring out it just lost a lot of weight and dragging half of the tree with it. Saw, limbs, and you included. With the plunge cut done, when you nip the tab, the stump and tree will be apart. Things will still happen fast if they do so pay attention.

 

[JRH02]

There are just so many gotchas and I don't think any single way is best unless you are on site and have experience. The upside is cottonwood is notoriously stringy but strong so probably not a break and whiplash unless tied off to a BIG machine. Can be full of water and heavy++ as is this one. Personally, I'd leave it. Burn piles in the root ball and wait until it lightens up. Gosh I'd love to have a big cottonwood to add to the neighbor's back stop as there have been many worbling ricochets of his range/backstop in my direction. Of course, they were not from him. Tell me that when I am on the chicken house doing roof repairs and rounds are zinging through the trees above me and the wife is commanding me off the roof. Dang stupid city people come to play.

 

[Hermio]

View attachment 748972
This cottonwood pulled it’s rootball and leaned over. I say leaned because it’s roots and a whole lotta earth are still attached. Then about 12’ from that it’s resting (left side of pic) on a berm built as a range backstop. Then you see the rest of this up in the air still. It is not supported to any degree by the limbs. Most of them are barely making contact with the ground. its held in space like this by the rootball still attached to the earth on the side it hinged down, the weight of the earth attached to the side that came up and where the truck is resting on the berm. It’s a big green tree.
I think my plan is to clear out a spot on the back of the berm where I have lots of room to escape and work free of obstruction. Notch the underside about 8’ from the rootball. And then slowly cut from the top down towards the notch. At some point it’s gonna want to have the heavy top start to bend down to the ground and the weighted root ball snap back upright.
I don’t know that I want to limb the top as I don’t know how much pulling up the root ball is doing vs the weight of the limbs holding it down.
lotta energy stored in this mess. Anyone else have thoughts on approach?

Let me offer an alternative approach. Limb the top as best you can so that the top can fall freely. Then plunge cut the trunk right on top of the berm, down to within an inch or two of the berm. If you can reach the top away from the berm, cut it into sections. If not, cut the top at the berm just above the plunge cut. Depending on the weight of the root ball, it may just let the top fall off or it may try to stand up, so be ready for the top to move backwards. It will start to open up first. Ideally it would just fall off. But if the root ball stands the tree up, you can drop it just like any standing timber. Or, if it is out of the way, just let it stand there.

 

[Leslegg]

I would clear an area where you have sufficient escape routes near the berm on the rootball side of the berm. Then I'd make a cut about 1/4 the way through on the bottom of the log. Then a finishing cut from the top down. Decide in advance whether the rootball will stand back up when the rest of the tree weight is relieved. Be in a position where you are safe from the parts moving when it separates. I am not a tree expert so maybe best to wait till an expert replies. I've done trees like that, and worse, and am still here to speak about it, and you are right that there is a lot of stored energy there. If you know your limits and are not comfortable doing it, hire somebody to drop it. Once it's cleared, enjoy the shooting.

 

[Leslegg]

View attachment 748972
This cottonwood pulled it’s rootball and leaned over. I say leaned because it’s roots and a whole lotta earth are still attached. Then about 12’ from that it’s resting (left side of pic) on a berm built as a range backstop. Then you see the rest of this up in the air still. It is not supported to any degree by the limbs. Most of them are barely making contact with the ground. its held in space like this by the rootball still attached to the earth on the side it hinged down, the weight of the earth attached to the side that came up and where the truck is resting on the berm. It’s a big green tree.
I think my plan is to clear out a spot on the back of the berm where I have lots of room to escape and work free of obstruction. Notch the underside about 8’ from the rootball. And then slowly cut from the top down towards the notch. At some point it’s gonna want to have the heavy top start to bend down to the ground and the weighted root ball snap back upright.
I don’t know that I want to limb the top as I don’t know how much pulling up the root ball is doing vs the weight of the limbs holding it down.
lotta energy stored in this mess. Anyone else have thoughts on approach?

When I would consider doing something like this my wife would ask “Is your life insurance paid up? Is your health insurance paid up?”Then turn around and walk back into the house. This one looks dangerous and might best be left to a pro. Your mileage may vary

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Trees always offer up a falling fashion that can be a silly video or a tombstone .

We lost a Maple years back from to much rain w/ high winds.
Ground was water soaked & roots not holding to enough soil, high wind did the rest.

We knocked off a lot of top soil sticking 10 feet in the air & hand saw the side roots. Up came the fence shared by a neighbor.
The tree didn't settle an inch. More rain came & washed more soil away from more roots. More roots were cut away.

Both families pitched in & discovered an old glass bottle dump from the 20s thru the 40s last century. There was even a few lead tubes of tooth paste, all wrinkled up but lead still.

The tree was sitting on an old homestead dump site.

Even some old spark plugs the side of a big pickle.

You might let time/weather work on the resting tree. Did the tree die of lead poisoning. . . . all those wild rounds etc.
That much shooting will eat away at the protective bark & permit bugs & rot to start to work on killing any tree.

 

[DougMahindra2545]

I just finished a week long stump pulling project, and have roots on the brain. Lots of good advice here and much depends upon your tool kit. If you have a backhoe and good access around the root ball, some decent distance work pulling soil away could gradually loosen things enough for it to complete its fall. Also, with a great many roots, wrist thickness or so, involved, if enough are exposed, another incremental approach might be to cut them one by one with a pole saw, until what's left can't hold it up. Just another idea to mix into some great variety of ideas here.

 

[Jac65]

Start with the simplest and safest options first, then escalate if you have to. Based on the limited information available I would get some straps or chains (not rope) strap to that trunk about 2/3 of the way to the top and try to pull it sideways. if that works you may break enough roots to get it to lay down into a safer working configuration. If not, nothing but a little time invested.