How would you straighten this?

[dstig1]

Get the hot dogs out, may as well get some value out the the decking as it burns. :laughing::thumbsup:

Yep. With sufficient heat, you should plan on at least making the deck wood start smoldering, if not outright catch on fire. Be aware and plan for it. Have water handy, in a form you can direct it - squirt bottle, hose, etc as you will need to hit it from the bottom where it is burning. And maybe even soak it down ahead of time to help prevent it.

 

[eastexan]

I would hook a chain on the top of the jack, run it clear to the back of the trailer and anchor it to a telephone pole or something. Then I would put a chain around the very bottom of the jack and pull that forward slowly .. in increments, check to see how things are going. .. or coming.

Leaving the trailer to float .. not anchored to anything.

This is the way to do it. :thumbsup:
Although I would use a tree to anchor it, unless it was a large pole.

As said, let the trailer float, meaning no wheel chocks either.
This way you will be both pulling the bottom of the jack forward and the top of the jack back, in one movement.

You could use a heavy chain hoist to pull the bottom of the jack forward if you are concerned about accidentally pulling it too far.

From what I can see, it should bend back fairly easily without heat.
The metal has been stretched between the welded areas, so it won't be perfect either way. There will still be kinks on both sides, inside of the weld areas, and maybe in the middle too. But you can always go back and dress them up later, if you want to.

 

[two_bit_score]

A lot of good things have been mentioned and I won't take exception with what has been suggested, except that heating might be a last resort, before replacement.

No mention of a portapower yet?

 

[LD1]

No mention of a portapower yet?

I though about mentioning it, but then I though about "IF I were doing it, what would I push aginst" About the only thing is the nezt crossmember.

And I'd be willing to bet that all the other cross members on the trailer are the same size, or even smaller. So you'd be just as likely to bend the next crossmember, as you would to actually straighten the front one.

 

[tmajor]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, eastexan.

There is one other thing, which I might mention ...
The initial pull will be relatively easy, but as the metal gets "close" to where it belongs, it will take more force to go that "extra little bit". At this point, there is a good chance for it to be pulled "too far", especially, if pulling with a tractor or something, which doesn't have a constant pull.

At this point, with pressure applied, a few good whacks with a sledge hammer to the back side, might be in order, to "nudge it home".

 

[LD1]

If you do happen to "over-pull" or "over-bend" it, just leave it there. That way, next time that jack catches a curb or something, you wont have to go through this again:laughing::laughing:

 

[5030]

A lot of good things have been mentioned and I won't take exception with what has been suggested, except that heating might be a last resort, before replacement.

No mention of a portapower yet?[/QUOTE]

I own a similar trailer and there is no place to push with a porta power underneath. You want to apply the force in the exact opposite direction of the original force.

Bent jacklegs are pretty common on that type of trailer. I've seen more than one.

 

[Egon]

It would probably be easier and quicker to replace the channel. Don't know your experience using a cutting torch or welding, but there would very little weld that would need to be cut and welded back on the replacement piece./QUOTE]

For sure that may be the quickest and fastest way to go. The bending way is gone be just plain messy and probably not achieve the desired results.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[om21braz]

It would probably be easier and quicker to replace the channel. Don't know your experience using a cutting torch or welding, but there would very little weld that would need to be cut and welded back on the replacement piece.

For sure that may be the quickest and fastest way to go. The bending way is gone be just plain messy and probably not achieve the desired results.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I'll third that motion.

 

[mearnest]

I worked in a body shop for several years. The guy who trained me to fix and straighten dents, frames, etc. said always try and visualize how the vehicle got the bend, dent, whatever, and try and pull it back out the exact opposite. It looks like the trailer was pulled without lifting the jack. It was bent without using a torch or welder.
You may try the same approach that I read on a post of chaining the jack and trailer and using the opposite force that I suspect bent it in the first place.
A torch can be useful, but sometimes exerting that much pressure and then heating it will result in only the "heated" part moving. This can make it look worse.
Lastly, if all else fails, cut it off and replace the rail and your good as new.

IMHO

:drool:

 

[56FordGuy]

Cutting and replacing the rail is an option, but the last one. This doesn't have to be perfect, I just want to see if I can make it better.

I tried pulling it out cold tonight. Pulled the bottom of the jack forward with a come along and pulled the top backward at the same time. It moved a little, but doesn't seem to have made any noticeable difference. I think my next step will be to do the same thing, and heat the backside of the rail.

 

[eastexan]

Cutting and replacing the rail is an option, but the last one. This doesn't have to be perfect, I just want to see if I can make it better.

I tried pulling it out cold tonight. Pulled the bottom of the jack forward with a come along and pulled the top backward at the same time. It moved a little, but doesn't seem to have made any noticeable difference. I think my next step will be to do the same thing, and heat the backside of the rail.

You will probably need at least a 2-1/2 to 3 ton lever type chain hoist (come along).
Or else just hook a chain from your tractor drawbar to the bottom of the jack instead.

 

[crazyal]

If you do straighten it I would find a way to brace it.

 

[2manyrocks]

None of my come a longs would bend that back straight. It took a lot to bend that rail, and it will take that much to bend it back.

 

[56FordGuy]

The only way to brace it would be to brace up against the next crossmember. While that isn't a bad idea, I think the key to avoid bending it again would be to be sure the jack is raised all the way up before moving. :laughing::thumbsup:

I'd love to know what they hit to bend it. The foot on the bottom of the jack is bent up, so it's obvious that they hung it on something.

 

[tmajor]

I think, you are going to have a little more force than a "come-along" .. like hook the tractor to it or something with some muscle.

 

[2manyrocks]

Well...suppose you parked it on top of something like a stump you could push off from with a hydraulic jack against the bottom of your trailer jack?

My guess is they just drug it in the dirt long enough to get that bend in it.

 

[massey990]

A large turnbuckle would be much better than any type of ratchet come-a-long...you can move a house with a big enough turnbuckle and enough leverage to turn it...

 

[crazyal]

The only way to brace it would be to brace up against the next crossmember. While that isn't a bad idea, I think the key to avoid bending it again would be to be sure the jack is raised all the way up before moving. :laughing::thumbsup:

I'd love to know what they hit to bend it. The foot on the bottom of the jack is bent up, so it's obvious that they hung it on something.

I was thinking to the tongue. If it's weak from being bent (twice) it could bend again. Most likely it was bent the first time by someone not raising it up I have seen where people have left equipment on their trailer while it's not connected to a truck and for one reason or another the wheel chocks didn't hold it from rolling. It's possible that your jack stopped the trailer from something even worse happening to it.

Or the previous owner could have forgotten to lock down the receiver and while towing something had it pop off and dig in. For me at least I would like to know it's strong. :thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

For a heat shrinking task like this one, I'd start with a number 3 cutting tip. I like concentrated heat to heat shrink things like this. Only time I use a rose bud is for large beams.