HP increase module? Deere 3038e

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I was thinking of increasing pump pressure some also.
If necessary larger cylinders.

 

[grsthegreat]

Also, the front end differential and bearings, etc are designed for the lift. Go over that by too much……rebuild time.

I maxed out my lift by adding a rear weight box of 1000#. Was moving alot of items right at my max lifting capacity when i was installing large generators. Ended up with busted bearing that took out entire left wheel gears. Expensive mistake.

Tractor isnt a forklift.

 

[oldnslo]

I was thinking of increasing pump pressure some also.
If necessary larger cylinders.

Have you checked to see what the pressure is on your tractor? Not unheard of for the pressure to be below factory spec.

 

[5030]

That was my OP purpose, asking those who have tried it, how it performed, etc.
I have 10 attachments for my tractor and everything is fine...except for example when I frequntly need to unload, say, 1,300# hay bundle from my truck It's close...but with forks added it won't quite make it.
To sell/trade everything I have and start from scratch getting larger tractor + equipment makes no sense. My understanding is newer Tractors are detuned for emissions. The $600 device I posted can be simply turned on when needed and off otherwise.
Buying another larger second tractor, new or used, just for a few jobs doesn't make sense either.

Sounds to me like you don't need any more engine power, you need to increase the hydraulic pressure slightly so you can pick up those bales. Much easier to do and much less expensive as well. All you need to do is locate the hydraulic check valve for the loader, remove the spring loaded check and add ONE shim. That will increase your lifting capacity enough without altering your fueling parameters at all and increasing engine power will do nothing for increasing lift capacity at all. All it will do is shorten the life of the engine and burn more fuel.

I confess I 'turned up' both of my M9's but they are both mechanical injection so no electronics involved and I had my good friend and favorite tech at my Kubota dealer do it for me. All he did was he shimmed the pump a bit. I went from 81 pto to 90.5 pto. Easy to do with a mechanical injection pump. He assured me the engine was quite capable of it without any bad side effects.

Do I notice any difference? Not really other than they seem to blow a little more smoke when worked hard.

 

[dodge man]

On my JD I just had to loosen a lock nut to turn up the pressure. I had to take a couple of things off the tractor but it was a simple to do.

 

[oldnslo]

That was my OP purpose, asking those who have tried it, how it performed, etc.
I have 10 attachments for my tractor and everything is fine...except for example when I frequntly need to unload, say, 1,300# hay bundle from my truck It's close...but with forks added it won't quite make it.
To sell/trade everything I have and start from scratch getting larger tractor + equipment makes no sense. My understanding is newer Tractors are detuned for emissions. The $600 device I posted can be simply turned on when needed and off otherwise.
Buying another larger second tractor, new or used, just for a few jobs doesn't make sense either.

What implements do you have that are specific and only fit the 3038? Agree tough to justify upsizing if also have to replace implements.

Not sure how different the Deere 4*** series is from the 3038.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

What implements do you have that are specific and only fit the 3038? Agree tough to justify upsizing if also have to replace implements.

Not sure how different the Deere 4*** series is from the 3038.

Certainly some would fit...but larger tractor means larger bush hog for example. It's not worth all the $ and hassle. I can up the hp and pump pressure a bit & all is well.

 

[RayIN]

I understand...but $600 vs $50K when you just need a little more power?

Any tractor, regardless of size, is designed around the engine HP and performance. Ever watch what happens to unlimited tractor pulling? As often as not something breaks.

Adding fuel to an engine increases exhaust manifold temperature. Exhaust valves begin to soften at 1,350°F. Without an pyrometer installed in the exhaust manifold you have no way to monitor the temperature.
Have you ever seen a diesel engine blowing black smoke? That's unburned fuel; the reason is too much fuel was being injected for the air/fuel ratio, so unburned fuel was exhausted and being compressed enough to go past the rings, into the motor oil crankcase area.

An owner can increase HP above OEM design limit, but must also accept the downside of shorter engine life.
In the end; it's your money and equipment. Choose wisely.

 

[super55]

The device will do nothing to help you with your situation to get a little more lift out of your tractor. If you need some more PTO or drawbar HP it might work. On the green forum people claim they have seen noticeable performance increase in the 3025e.

If you need just a little bump in lift capacity. There's two options. 1. You can replace the loader cylinders with ones that have a larger bore or you can adjust the relief setting on the valve body. An increase of even 100 psi will give a noticeable difference.

Whats happening is your hydraulics are going into relief. Hp has nothing to do with it hence why the 3025E and the 3038E have the exact same lift capacity.

I recommend definitely have rear loaded tires along with wheel spacers. I have a 4310 (very similar size to 3038e) and was having the same issue until I bumped my pressure up a tad. But definitely add spacers and rear ballast. It makes it such a more stable of a platform.

 

[Sportsman762]

I was thinking of increasing pump pressure some also.
If necessary larger cylinders.

I frequntly need to unload, say, 1,300# hay bundle from my truck

I am not sure if this is healthy for the tractor.
Messicks did a video on front axles, I know that they were drumming up Kubota, but there are still some good points

Front axle capacity vs loader strength

<p>Are tractors becoming disposable? We are reaching a point where the lift capacity of many loaders is exceeding the weight capacity of the front axle. Pulling out the set of racecar scales to test how much weight is put on the front axle when the front loader is loaded to spec. </p>

www.messicks.com

They did a follow up about ballasting. I thought this was very interesting.

Follow-up: Relieving your front axle using rear ballast

<p>How does adding ballast behind the tractor impact the load being carried on the front axle? If the tractor is properly ballasted, does a loader filled to spec still overload the specs of the front axle?</p> <p>front axle capacity vs loader strength</p>

www.messicks.com

JD says the rear axle on a 3038e is 2,645 lbs, and 1,940 lbs for the front. The shipping weight of the tractor is 2668 lbs, if you assume a 50/50 split (which is not true) then the front axle load is 1,334 lbs.

https://www.deere.com/en/tractors/compact-tractors/3-series-compact-tractors/3038e/

The 300E loader weighs 675 lbs + 205lbs for the bucket for a total weight of 880 lbs.

https://www.deere.com/en/loaders/front-end-loaders-for-tractors/300e-loader/

For this discussion I will say that all of the loader weight is supported by the front axle so 1,334+880=2,214 lbs with nothing in the bucket and no operator on the tractor. Combine this with a 1,300 lb bale and your at 3,514 lbs on an axle rated for 1,940 lbs. If you watch the Messick's ballasting video, the real load would be much more.

I do not know what your situation is, but I would be hesitant to overload an axle by 80%. I included my sources so please double check my math and research as I was surprised by what I found.

Also, the front end differential and bearings, etc are designed for the lift. Go over that by too much……rebuild time.

Not sure if the 3038e front axle is designed for the rated lift, yet alone an overload situation. I thought that was surprising.