PineRidge said:
Sorry, should have been a bit more clear, coming off wasn't the issue, getting it back on was. On one line I could bang the end and release enough pressure to connect it, but one of the others was not as friendly.
Htydraulic Connections to Implements
- Thread starter CurlyDave
- Start date
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Sorry, should have been a bit more clear, coming off wasn't the issue, getting it back on was. On one line I could bang the end and release enough pressure to connect it, but one of the others was not as friendly.
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
I made the mistake, once, of not fully closing the grapple before removing it and even releasing the pressure didn't work because gravity kept closing the grapple a little more and (re-)presurrizing the line ...solution was a little bottle jack working to "open" the grapple (working against gravity) and it was slick as snot. This also works in case where sun has heated the fluid and pressurized the line, as does a sharp rap on the ball with a coated dead-blow hammer (or use a piece of wood between the hammer blow and the ball). The other trick I have found, is if I get one on and the other is hard, goose the lever this way and that, and the (excess) fluid returns.
PineRidge
Super Member
pekabu said:
Dave I meant to say that just because the pressure builds up and makes reattaching the lines a bit of a problem that still shouldn't keep you from removing it when the need arises.
OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I meant to say that just because the pressure builds up and makes reattaching the lines a bit of a problem that still shouldn't keep you from removing it when the need arises.
I intend to keep changing implements as the need arises. If I don't develop a technique for dealing with my problem of line reattachment, I won't get the full value out of my investment.
I am going back up to Oregon July 21-24 and will try a few of the suggestions here.
I will definitely couple the lines together when I remove either bucket, as this also solves the "keep them clean" problem, much more elegantly than the plastic baggies I had been using. I think this would also cause the grapple to close under its own weight, although closing it before removal would be easiest.
I like your short length of copper tubing, & will probably do something based on that idea.
The other disadvantage I have is that my garage and most of my tools are in CA and the backhoe is in OR. Everything has to work the first time -- modifications to anything I make are very primitive.
I intend to keep changing implements as the need arises. If I don't develop a technique for dealing with my problem of line reattachment, I won't get the full value out of my investment.
I am going back up to Oregon July 21-24 and will try a few of the suggestions here.
I will definitely couple the lines together when I remove either bucket, as this also solves the "keep them clean" problem, much more elegantly than the plastic baggies I had been using. I think this would also cause the grapple to close under its own weight, although closing it before removal would be easiest.
I like your short length of copper tubing, & will probably do something based on that idea.
The other disadvantage I have is that my garage and most of my tools are in CA and the backhoe is in OR. Everything has to work the first time -- modifications to anything I make are very primitive.
Last edited:
BillinTX
New member
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- Jun 30, 2006
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- North East Texas
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- MF165D, 1939 Farmall A, 1944 Farmall A
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
That clean issue is important. i had to replace the orings in my QD's onmy tractor after only 4 years.
Now I keep a can of wd-40 with spray straw on hand, and liberally hose out the fem side and wipe of fthe maile side before mating them..
Soundguy
Now I keep a can of wd-40 with spray straw on hand, and liberally hose out the fem side and wipe of fthe maile side before mating them..
Soundguy
PineRidge
Super Member
This is definitely an interesting thread.
Lately my BH when parked has broken the rope tying the 2 stabilizers in the up position and the thermal expansion lowers the stabilizers to the ground as it builds pressure. The next couple of days are expected to be in the 90s hare so I'm going to raise the stabilizers and tie the 2 hydraulic lines together to see what happens while it's parked in the heat.
Lately my BH when parked has broken the rope tying the 2 stabilizers in the up position and the thermal expansion lowers the stabilizers to the ground as it builds pressure. The next couple of days are expected to be in the 90s hare so I'm going to raise the stabilizers and tie the 2 hydraulic lines together to see what happens while it's parked in the heat.
OP
CurlyDave
Elite Member
Ah, looking at the "tool specs" page on the Waite's Tools website, has opened my eyes considerably.
This shows sketches of varios types of hydraulic connectors, and I have the "Flat head Skid Steer" type.
I had great difficulty understanding how striking one of these nose-first on a hard surface would relieve pressure, and now I believe that it won't. It will work for the other types of connectors shown.
I do have an idea for an easy homemade tool which I think would work, and I am also going to order the Waite's tool when they open on Monday. (Their web page for ordering is poorly written and does not display correctly on my Mac.) I doubt I will receive it by the weekend, but I will post close-ups of both tools as soon as I gain any experience.
Thanks, BillinTX.
PineRidge writes: Lately my BH when parked has broken the rope tying the 2 stabilizers in the up position...
Is that a factory rope?
I think the real isssue here is plain old leak-down rather than thermal expansion.
This shows sketches of varios types of hydraulic connectors, and I have the "Flat head Skid Steer" type.
I had great difficulty understanding how striking one of these nose-first on a hard surface would relieve pressure, and now I believe that it won't. It will work for the other types of connectors shown.
I do have an idea for an easy homemade tool which I think would work, and I am also going to order the Waite's tool when they open on Monday. (Their web page for ordering is poorly written and does not display correctly on my Mac.) I doubt I will receive it by the weekend, but I will post close-ups of both tools as soon as I gain any experience.
Thanks, BillinTX.
PineRidge writes: Lately my BH when parked has broken the rope tying the 2 stabilizers in the up position...
Is that a factory rope?
I think the real isssue here is plain old leak-down rather than thermal expansion.
PineRidge
Super Member
CurlyDave said:
No chance of leak down since I had the stabilizers tied together with a piece of 1/4" nylon rope and it broke the nylon. I'm sure its thermal expansion in this case.
slaveToHorses
Gold Member
Definitely something other than leak down. I secure my stabilizers with one of those rubber bungy cords. Holds them just fine. The rope would only break under hydraulic pressure, or a severe failure in the rope...
Let us know what happens when you tie the supply and return lines together. That is what I have been doing when I stored my JD#7 hoe. I haven't stored my 447 yet, but I was planning on doing the same thing.
Let us know what happens when you tie the supply and return lines together. That is what I have been doing when I stored my JD#7 hoe. I haven't stored my 447 yet, but I was planning on doing the same thing.
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