Hub to axle seal job complete on a 1533, Photos

  
  • Thread Starter
#51  
OP
MrSteve

MrSteve

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Sep 12, 2005
Messages
486
Location
Middleport, NY
Tractor
John Deere 2025R
I just came on to reply to a PM over this subject so I thought I would stop in the thread to reply to these post... So knowing I did see them and sorry for not letting you both know earlier...

Anyone using this thread have any stories on the job that hasn't already posted of their repair?

This is happening on my 1528 so this is probably the same procedure.

Great reference!

I would think so, if there is drop spindles.

I'm pretty sure it is. The 1529 might be the same as yours. But I think the concept is the same. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words!!

Nothing beats photos for sure!

Just to add here... For people looking for the missing photos from the 1st post, they have been posted on page 4 of this thread... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...hub-axle-seal-job-complete-4.html#post3210680
Thanks Darryl for your help on letting me know what pics were missing...

Something is going on with the gallery on this web site, so I posted the photos on another site and link them here...

Missing, #2
hubsealjob2_zps7266bb82.jpg


Missing, #9
hubsealjob9_zpse61f7455.jpg


#2 was just showing the tractor on jack stands.

#9 I believe I was just pointing out to make sure the old seal (inner part of that seal, if you look real close you can see the old inner part of the seal is still there, that rust is the old seal liner and not the spindle) was removed from the top of the drop spindle and to make sure to clean and lube with a bit of axle lube/oil on the new seal before putting everything back together.

Sorry for the pics not showing in my 1st post, not sure what is going on with the gallery on this web site.
 

CZJon

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Mar 23, 2012
Messages
14
Location
Houston, TX
Tractor
na
Yes I would have to say "all of a sudden". I was cutting grass and seen a "fluid blow out" on my right side tire, lucky I was cutting grass, because I was looking down in that area following my cut line. I was hoping it was a pressure blow out, as in, pressure built up by heat (because the front axle has no vent, I believe). Check and filled and all seemed fine, but as soon as the seal got warm it started leaking again. The leak was like a drip every 3 seconds or so, yes a small leak, but a leak is a leak.

The leak started at about 300hrs.

The job isn't that hard when you "find" the info to do it, if like me you never have done this type of job. It took about 2hrs, 1 1/2 hours for the job and the 1/2hr was the time finding the tools I needed and clean up after. If I have to do it again, I think I could get it done in no more then 1hr start to clean up.

NOTE TO ADD TO MY 1ST POST ABOVE...One thing I didn't say about the seal above and I hope it is noticed in this post... The seal is a 2 piece design. When dropping the hub, the one piece will stay on the axle, you must "slowly" work that seal off because it is a tight fit over a polished machined surface.

Parts cost from my dealer were, $28 for the seal and $10 for the bottom cap seal.

Here is the thread where I was asking for help for the repair. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28574-swivel-housing-seal-leaking-1533-a.html

In the link above, you are talking with another member about a Dealer Notice on Cavitation - I notice the member that was going to send you the notice was banned. Do you still have that PDF that he sent you on the dealer Bulletin?

Thanks!
 
   #53  

cmb1998

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7
In the link above, you are talking with another member about a Dealer Notice on Cavitation - I notice the member that was going to send you the notice was banned. Do you still have that PDF that he sent you on the dealer Bulletin?

Thanks!

Great write up! For anyone else with a 1528, the part #'s are different.

Any secrets to getting to bottom cover off? I got everything else pulled apart, but looking for help getting the cover off.

Thanks,

Chris
 
   #54  

cmb1998

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Jul 1, 2009
Messages
7
Rebuilding the outboard on my boat gave me less problems than this! The hub seal on mine was rusted in place. Got it off, got the first snap ring out, but the axle shaft won't drop out. Should it drop out once you remove the snap ring?




I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
 

bakkenkl

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Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
1
Location
Byron
Tractor
MF 1635
Great tutorial, thanks! Just got everything apart on my 1635. P/N's are the same as for the 1533, except the seals have been updated to a 'version' 3. Some notes that i wanted to add:

1) for me, I had to 'destroy' the bottom cap... i.e. drive a screwdriver into the edge and pry it out. Perhaps a more patient approach would have gotten it out intact.

2) same for removing the seal. I had to 'grab' it with a vicegrips and pry it out.

3) I too had a heck of a time getting the snap rings out, especially the inner one. Good tools are highly underrated....

4) an alternative idea to supporting the hub while you take out the inner snap ring is to use a binding strap (I used a cam-buckle canoe strap)_ to hold the hub 'up'. A jack certainly works, but then its in the way for getting the snap ring out.

5) I too had a hard time getting the tie-rod 'bolt' out of the casting. I ended up jacking up the nut end (with the nut out to the end of the bolt to protect the threads) about 1/2" , then hitting the top of the casting. I also squirted in some WD-40, although I'm not sure if that helped or not. Heating up the casting didn't seem to help either.

Kirby
 

Shaya99

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Dec 31, 2017
Messages
2
Location
ocala
Tractor
MF 1428V
Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
1231171408.jpg
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#57  
OP
MrSteve

MrSteve

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486
Location
Middleport, NY
Tractor
John Deere 2025R
Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
View attachment 534042

Shaya99... I think one of two things could have happened here. Either the bearing is not seating on the axle correctly (you say it is) or the more then likely problem, you didn't remove the "2nd" piece of the seal on the axle and that is stopping the bearing from riding all the way up, (because you are saying the seal looks different, it really isn't, you just didn't get the other piece off)... When I say axle, I am referring to the dropped polished piece that everything mounts to.

Here is a quote from a few post down from me on the 1st page, I wasn't able to edit my 1st post at the time to add this info...

NOTE TO ADD TO MY 1ST POST ABOVE...One thing I didn't say about the seal above and I hope it is noticed in this post... The seal is a 2 piece design. When dropping the hub, the one piece will stay on the axle, you must "slowly" work that seal off because it is a tight fit over a polished machined surface.

Found a missing photo to point out what needs to be removedUntitled.jpg And looking at your photo blown up, it sure looks like that seal piece is still there... It might be worth buying another seal if you put as much force trying to seat everything as you said you did, I would be shocked if the new seal wasn't damaged. Let us know how you make out.
 
Last edited:
   #58  

Shaya99

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Dec 31, 2017
Messages
2
Location
ocala
Tractor
MF 1428V
Shaya99... I think one of two things could have happened here. Either the bearing is not seating on the axle correctly (you say it is) or the more then likely problem, you didn't remove the "2nd" piece of the seal on the axle and that is stopping the bearing from riding all the way up, (because you are saying the seal looks different, it really isn't, you just didn't get the other piece off)... When I say axle, I am referring to the dropped polished piece that everything mounts to.

Here is a quote from a few post down from me on the 1st page, I wasn't able to edit my 1st post at the time to add this info...



Found a missing photo to point out what needs to be removedView attachment 534067 And looking at your photo blown up, it sure looks like that seal piece is still there... It might be worth buying another seal if you put as much force trying to seat everything as you said you did, I would be shocked if the new seal wasn't damaged. Let us know how you make out.

Thank you, I had called local dealer today and he explained it veryt well. Yes I did not remove the top part of that seal that was stuck onto the axle. Makes sense now....Your new photo helps....I will check for damage when I complete the job, if it is damaged, I did buy a second seal for the other side if I ever need it (that one not leaking now...).
Thanks for the input
 

WhiteRam

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Apr 22, 2018
Messages
22
Tractor
MF 1635
Just subbing here for future reference. Thanks.
 
   #60  

schoolsout

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Feb 2, 2011
Messages
1,879
Location
Awendaw, SC
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 1533
I think we'll be doing our 3rd seal very soon. Tractor has 1150 hours on it and I think one side gives us more of an issue than the other, but I didn't write down any notes. How long are y'all getting out of these seals?
 
 
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