hydraulic dump trailers
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Steve_in_Ont
Silver Member
Hillbilly - Take a look at the current thread under "attachments". We have a bit of a conversation going on this topic... I'm also in the market for something, but I can't seem to decide - small & maneuverable, or big &... well... just big!
Here are a few manufactures that I have found in the 3000 - 10000 lbs GVW range:
- Provonost
- EZ Dumper
- Gran Prix
- Normand (from Eastern Farm Machinery)
- Homesteader
- Maxidump
- Dressen Custom Trailer
Good luck!
Here are a few manufactures that I have found in the 3000 - 10000 lbs GVW range:
- Provonost
- EZ Dumper
- Gran Prix
- Normand (from Eastern Farm Machinery)
- Homesteader
- Maxidump
- Dressen Custom Trailer
Good luck!
Charlie_Iliff
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I ordered a Bri-Mar 5000 lb, single axle 5x8' dump trailer. It should be delivered this week, and I will report.
They have a web site. Bri-Mar.com ?
They have a web site. Bri-Mar.com ?
Robert_in_NY
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EZ dumper has an option to upgrade to 14k, mostly stronger ram and heavier axels I think. Kinda hard to put 14k pounds in a trailer unless your hauling stone or gravel.
Charlie_Iliff
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This morning, I picked up a Bri-Mar 508 hydraulic dump trailer. It was $2,395 plus taxes & tags, so on the road for a total of just under $2,600. It is single axle, 5x8 bed, rated at 5000 lb. gross, with electric brakes. There is a similar model rated at 3000 lb., which is less expensive, but I wanted the brakes and additional capacity. The trailer is fairly stoutly built, but not overbuilt, and looks well designed. I tested it by hauling and dumping heaped loads of compost, with between a yard and a half and two yards per load. The electric hydraulic pump handled dumping easily. The compost was fairly dense, with some topsoil, so I probably was getting a ton and a half or so per load. It handled it easily.
For short hauls, I am pushing the trailer backward with my Power Trac 1845. It is easy, and positioning is precise. (Backing the Power Trac, thus pulling the trailer forward, takes some practice with the articulated PT.) Since I drive forward to hitch up, and the ball swings sideways when I turn the wheel, hitching is astonishingly simple. It is easier, I think,than with the rear-steer loaders most commonly used for pushing airplanes. And, since the ball is on the loader plate, I can lift the tongue and shake the trailer with the PT hydraulics to supplement the dump.
So far, I like the Bri-Mar but one day is hardly a career. It was a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than quotes for an EZ Dumper, and seems very similar.
So, I moved a compost pile a couple of hundred yards away from the barn, and stuck the trailer behind the barn where it will be filled with horse manure and sawdust daily. Seems a nasty thing to do to a pretty new piece of equipment.
For short hauls, I am pushing the trailer backward with my Power Trac 1845. It is easy, and positioning is precise. (Backing the Power Trac, thus pulling the trailer forward, takes some practice with the articulated PT.) Since I drive forward to hitch up, and the ball swings sideways when I turn the wheel, hitching is astonishingly simple. It is easier, I think,than with the rear-steer loaders most commonly used for pushing airplanes. And, since the ball is on the loader plate, I can lift the tongue and shake the trailer with the PT hydraulics to supplement the dump.
So far, I like the Bri-Mar but one day is hardly a career. It was a couple of hundred dollars cheaper than quotes for an EZ Dumper, and seems very similar.
So, I moved a compost pile a couple of hundred yards away from the barn, and stuck the trailer behind the barn where it will be filled with horse manure and sawdust daily. Seems a nasty thing to do to a pretty new piece of equipment.
bubenberg
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we have a hydraulic dump trailer for 4 years. dual axle electric brakes on all four wheels. the trailer is rated at 10,000 lbs abd does well behind a 3/4 ton truck.
my experience is the backing-up is as difficult as with a 2 horse trailer. i can back-up our 20 foot mower trailer alot easier then the dump trailer.
the dumptrailer is a great asset to our business and we have less pick-up repairs since we no longer have one with a dump bed. the cops don't pull us over as much to weigh us all the time.
charlie has pretty much said all the other more technical aspects.
my experience is the backing-up is as difficult as with a 2 horse trailer. i can back-up our 20 foot mower trailer alot easier then the dump trailer.
the dumptrailer is a great asset to our business and we have less pick-up repairs since we no longer have one with a dump bed. the cops don't pull us over as much to weigh us all the time.
charlie has pretty much said all the other more technical aspects.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
I've built a couple of hydraulic dump trailers. The last one was from a twelve foot dump bed off of a long wheelbase 83 chevy one ton. The truck chassis had a pto pump.
What I did was pick up a couple of seven thousand pound torkflex axles with brakes. The reason I like the torkflex is they act independently so if you catch a bump with one side you don't feel it from the back to the front and end to end.
They also come with a longer guarantee than spring assembly types. They're easier to mount. And you can get them where they raise the frame, lower the frame, or carry the frame level. They're just tricker than a pocket on pants.
I built the frame for the trailer out of two by six eleven gauge tubing. I centered the axles where the load wouldn't lift the tow vehicle off the ground when dumping and yet not have so much tongue weight as to make it impossible for anything but a large truck to comfortably tow it.
The bed was a flat bed. So I had to make sides and a tailboard. I made it just like a regular dump bed for a truck. The tail board hinged on the top. This is great for materials like sand and gravel or dirt. It's not worth a doggone on a rainy day for unloading construction debris like from a demo or a remodel.
The hoist was a scissor type. I contacted the manufacturer and picked up their recommended twelve volt pump and resevoir for that assembly.
I paid two fifty for the bed, hoist and frame. I should feel guilty but then I don't do everything I should all the time. It cost eight plus for the reservoir and pump from the manufacturer. I picked up a rebuilt from them and saved about three, just a note for those who think cost is a factor. The axles w/brakes cost me another five to almost six. Four hundred for four ten ply sixteen inch tires that were take offs from a new Ford. Bear in mind, chevy eight hole wheels look the same as Ford or Dodge but the center hole is about an eighth of an inch smaller. They won't fit over ford or dodge hubs or trailer hubs either. The eight holes are all the same. But it's the center hole that gives you the heartache. Before you take out the torch to the center to fix the problem keep in mind that inner ridge is there for a purpose. It severely weakens the wheel when you remove it.
I had about three in the extra steel for the side boards, tail board etc including lights and so on.
It's a great trailer. It tows straight and hauls. I've hauled as much as four yards on it without any trouble at all.
There are a couple of problems with it though. The first is when you have the bed over the wheels, the full eight foot width. You have the deck high enough that loading it with a wheelbarrow and a ramp is out of the question.
When hauling construction trash the great tail board means the big stuff has to be hand unloaded or it jams up at the tailboard and then you have a real problem. Of course the old construction trash solution is the two doors that meet in the middle. They ain't worth a flip when it comes to trying to spread materials with your dump bed.
Some interesting points on dump trailers. First is the obvious about if you aren't comfortable with a trailer to begin with then it's going to be a pain for you to use a dump trailer. The other problem is folks load them wrong. Say like loading it with dirt and figuring that since it's got two foot sides you can fill it up to the top.
That can give you three problems. The first is if your tow vehicle can't get traction and you get into soft stuff you're stuck until you unload right where you are which might be the perfectly most bad place imaginable to unload.
Next you just might have went beyond the capacity of the hoist or even worse the frame of the trailer.
Third is of course the hazard of going out into traffic with an improperly loaded trailer and at fifty miles an hour finding out that your steering wheel is good only as something to hold on to while your pucker string does it's best imitation of a too small bungee cord for the fat lady falling.
I'm building me a new dump trailer. I've taken a twenty foot flat bed gooseneck trailer with fifty two hundred pound axles.
I've removed the deck. I've replaced the axles with new seven thousand pounders with brakes and new ten ply sixteen inch tires.
It had twelve inch I beams for the frame. I've cut down the last eleven feet to only four inch. I've welded four by twelve quarter inch angle to that upper edge the length of the eleven feet.
This is to give me the lower deck height and width I need to put my skid steer there. What's neat about carrying a skid steer is you always back them onto a trailer. The main reason for this is they like to fall over backwards if going up an angle. It's rough on the pocketbook when this happens and even harder on the cardio vascular system. It's also good cause your weight is at the back which means you don't have to be as far forward to balance the weight over the axles of the trailer.
So now you're wondering about the dumping part I guess.
Well, one thing really nice about gooseneck trailers is you can turn them around in places you never could a bumper pull. You can jack knife one where you're actually closer to facing the back of the trailer than the front.
So I figured a side dump. Yup, I'm gonna have a nine foot long and eight feet wide bed front to back that will dump to the side, passenger side even.
With the gooseneck I can dump a load and drive out from it without the wheels ever touching it.
I've never seen one made like that. But heck, that's what I do. I make things. Most of them haven't been made before but that isn't all bad.
Pierce wrecker sales, they've got a good internet site, sells a neat kit for dump beds that would be great for someone making their own dump trailer.
What I did was pick up a couple of seven thousand pound torkflex axles with brakes. The reason I like the torkflex is they act independently so if you catch a bump with one side you don't feel it from the back to the front and end to end.
They also come with a longer guarantee than spring assembly types. They're easier to mount. And you can get them where they raise the frame, lower the frame, or carry the frame level. They're just tricker than a pocket on pants.
I built the frame for the trailer out of two by six eleven gauge tubing. I centered the axles where the load wouldn't lift the tow vehicle off the ground when dumping and yet not have so much tongue weight as to make it impossible for anything but a large truck to comfortably tow it.
The bed was a flat bed. So I had to make sides and a tailboard. I made it just like a regular dump bed for a truck. The tail board hinged on the top. This is great for materials like sand and gravel or dirt. It's not worth a doggone on a rainy day for unloading construction debris like from a demo or a remodel.
The hoist was a scissor type. I contacted the manufacturer and picked up their recommended twelve volt pump and resevoir for that assembly.
I paid two fifty for the bed, hoist and frame. I should feel guilty but then I don't do everything I should all the time. It cost eight plus for the reservoir and pump from the manufacturer. I picked up a rebuilt from them and saved about three, just a note for those who think cost is a factor. The axles w/brakes cost me another five to almost six. Four hundred for four ten ply sixteen inch tires that were take offs from a new Ford. Bear in mind, chevy eight hole wheels look the same as Ford or Dodge but the center hole is about an eighth of an inch smaller. They won't fit over ford or dodge hubs or trailer hubs either. The eight holes are all the same. But it's the center hole that gives you the heartache. Before you take out the torch to the center to fix the problem keep in mind that inner ridge is there for a purpose. It severely weakens the wheel when you remove it.
I had about three in the extra steel for the side boards, tail board etc including lights and so on.
It's a great trailer. It tows straight and hauls. I've hauled as much as four yards on it without any trouble at all.
There are a couple of problems with it though. The first is when you have the bed over the wheels, the full eight foot width. You have the deck high enough that loading it with a wheelbarrow and a ramp is out of the question.
When hauling construction trash the great tail board means the big stuff has to be hand unloaded or it jams up at the tailboard and then you have a real problem. Of course the old construction trash solution is the two doors that meet in the middle. They ain't worth a flip when it comes to trying to spread materials with your dump bed.
Some interesting points on dump trailers. First is the obvious about if you aren't comfortable with a trailer to begin with then it's going to be a pain for you to use a dump trailer. The other problem is folks load them wrong. Say like loading it with dirt and figuring that since it's got two foot sides you can fill it up to the top.
That can give you three problems. The first is if your tow vehicle can't get traction and you get into soft stuff you're stuck until you unload right where you are which might be the perfectly most bad place imaginable to unload.
Next you just might have went beyond the capacity of the hoist or even worse the frame of the trailer.
Third is of course the hazard of going out into traffic with an improperly loaded trailer and at fifty miles an hour finding out that your steering wheel is good only as something to hold on to while your pucker string does it's best imitation of a too small bungee cord for the fat lady falling.
I'm building me a new dump trailer. I've taken a twenty foot flat bed gooseneck trailer with fifty two hundred pound axles.
I've removed the deck. I've replaced the axles with new seven thousand pounders with brakes and new ten ply sixteen inch tires.
It had twelve inch I beams for the frame. I've cut down the last eleven feet to only four inch. I've welded four by twelve quarter inch angle to that upper edge the length of the eleven feet.
This is to give me the lower deck height and width I need to put my skid steer there. What's neat about carrying a skid steer is you always back them onto a trailer. The main reason for this is they like to fall over backwards if going up an angle. It's rough on the pocketbook when this happens and even harder on the cardio vascular system. It's also good cause your weight is at the back which means you don't have to be as far forward to balance the weight over the axles of the trailer.
So now you're wondering about the dumping part I guess.
Well, one thing really nice about gooseneck trailers is you can turn them around in places you never could a bumper pull. You can jack knife one where you're actually closer to facing the back of the trailer than the front.
So I figured a side dump. Yup, I'm gonna have a nine foot long and eight feet wide bed front to back that will dump to the side, passenger side even.
With the gooseneck I can dump a load and drive out from it without the wheels ever touching it.
I've never seen one made like that. But heck, that's what I do. I make things. Most of them haven't been made before but that isn't all bad.
Pierce wrecker sales, they've got a good internet site, sells a neat kit for dump beds that would be great for someone making their own dump trailer.
dummy
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OK, you've gotten my curiosity going. A side dump sounds very innovative, yet how will you load the bobcat? Through a hinged or removeable tail board? Underbelly or side board ramp storage? On your other one, would removeable pins and dual hinges for the tail board work? I've got a goose neck and a dump would sure be convenient but one that large isn't in the budget. A makeover though could be doable. Think my 580 would be a tighter fit?
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
<font color=red> A side dump sounds very innovative, yet how will you load the bobcat? Through a hinged or removeable tail board? Underbelly or side board ramp storage?</font color=red>
The gooseneck is twenty feet long. The JCB with bucket takes up the last eleven feet. It rides between the tires with the bucket riding on a widened flat spot at the end. This keeps the weight lower and it's easier for loading and unloading, closer to the ground and all that stuff.
I plan on using four foot ramps that are spring assisted fold ups.
The dump bed will occupy that nine feet between the skid steer bay and the front uprights of the gooseneck. So I'll have a nine feet by eight feet box that will dump off to the passenger side.
There are a couple of reasons behind the passenger side dump. First because I plan on the drivers side of the dump bed to be a fold down. This will allow the loading and unloading of palletized stuff. The reason for the driver's side for that is sometimes you park on the street and that's the side you can operate on without doing too much damage to the terrain with the skid steer.
Did I mention the forks for the JCB will ride behind the axles on the drivers side? I plan on them sliding in and being pinned where they'll available and yet out of the way. Across from them I plan on carrying the auger attachment. The twelve inch auger will ride over one set of tires and the sixteen will ride over the other.
And I still have that area under the dump bed where some tools can ride. Let's not forget there's also the area above the gooseneck that's just begging to become a productive part of the team.
<font color=red>On your other one, would removeable pins and dual hinges for the tail board work?</font color=red>
Good point. What most folks don't think about when they make a dump bed or trailer is that when there's a load there's some big pressure against the tail board. So all your conventional latching methods suck like a calf after a night without it's mama.
What I did to get around that is I ran a rod across the width of the bed. Some levers on that rod pulled, note, pulled L shaped rods in and out to latch the gate. It's not an original system but it does work. I've modified a couple of other fellas trailers with that latching system after they've seen mine in action.
On the passenger side of the trailer is a lever attached to the rod activating the L brackets. It cams over parallel with the bed and another little keeper comes down and locks it in place.
The logic of having the control for the tail board on the passenger side is it forces the driver to walk around the trailer and hopefully he'll see if there's a problem with dumping there. The lever and keeper pretty well insures that the lever won't accidently open at seventy on the expressway, not good.
Your mention of the sets of pins was handled by having three quarter inch bolts with nylocks for the top hinge points. You see I don't use it and didn't plan on using it much for hauling debris, just sand and such. So the tail board can be removed, just not as easily as some folks would like.
[<font color=red>I've got a goose neck and a dump would sure be convenient but one that large isn't in the budget. A makeover though could be doable. Think my 580 would be a tighter fit?</font color=red>
I think that would depend on the size of the case. (grin)
Nice tractor btw
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://photos.yahoo.com/wroughtnharv>me</A>
The gooseneck is twenty feet long. The JCB with bucket takes up the last eleven feet. It rides between the tires with the bucket riding on a widened flat spot at the end. This keeps the weight lower and it's easier for loading and unloading, closer to the ground and all that stuff.
I plan on using four foot ramps that are spring assisted fold ups.
The dump bed will occupy that nine feet between the skid steer bay and the front uprights of the gooseneck. So I'll have a nine feet by eight feet box that will dump off to the passenger side.
There are a couple of reasons behind the passenger side dump. First because I plan on the drivers side of the dump bed to be a fold down. This will allow the loading and unloading of palletized stuff. The reason for the driver's side for that is sometimes you park on the street and that's the side you can operate on without doing too much damage to the terrain with the skid steer.
Did I mention the forks for the JCB will ride behind the axles on the drivers side? I plan on them sliding in and being pinned where they'll available and yet out of the way. Across from them I plan on carrying the auger attachment. The twelve inch auger will ride over one set of tires and the sixteen will ride over the other.
And I still have that area under the dump bed where some tools can ride. Let's not forget there's also the area above the gooseneck that's just begging to become a productive part of the team.
<font color=red>On your other one, would removeable pins and dual hinges for the tail board work?</font color=red>
Good point. What most folks don't think about when they make a dump bed or trailer is that when there's a load there's some big pressure against the tail board. So all your conventional latching methods suck like a calf after a night without it's mama.
What I did to get around that is I ran a rod across the width of the bed. Some levers on that rod pulled, note, pulled L shaped rods in and out to latch the gate. It's not an original system but it does work. I've modified a couple of other fellas trailers with that latching system after they've seen mine in action.
On the passenger side of the trailer is a lever attached to the rod activating the L brackets. It cams over parallel with the bed and another little keeper comes down and locks it in place.
The logic of having the control for the tail board on the passenger side is it forces the driver to walk around the trailer and hopefully he'll see if there's a problem with dumping there. The lever and keeper pretty well insures that the lever won't accidently open at seventy on the expressway, not good.
Your mention of the sets of pins was handled by having three quarter inch bolts with nylocks for the top hinge points. You see I don't use it and didn't plan on using it much for hauling debris, just sand and such. So the tail board can be removed, just not as easily as some folks would like.
[<font color=red>I've got a goose neck and a dump would sure be convenient but one that large isn't in the budget. A makeover though could be doable. Think my 580 would be a tighter fit?</font color=red>
I think that would depend on the size of the case. (grin)
Nice tractor btw
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://photos.yahoo.com/wroughtnharv>me</A>
dummy
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At first, I was envisioning a twenty foot dump box but your explanation cleared away the fuzzy parts for your application. Excellent concept. Liked the idiot proofing part, does it really work? Some of the new ones I'm seeing can't tell which end of a drill is the pointy one! For me, the backhoe needs a little more deck space, but if three sides were foldable (driver, passenger and rear)???? Might work. I acquired some 1/4"x6x12 diamond plate and was wondering what to do with it. Great possibilities for the smaller tractors and a dump full of mulch, sand, etc. Next problem, how to hide the project from the wife. There have been threats about certain body parts and tractor related expenses.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
One of the tricks of avoiding mama-complications in procurring necessities of life is to explain that it is an unavoidable expense.
A fair share of the stuff I got tool wise came with first convincing myself I absolutely had to have it. Then I convinced the wife or paying customer that I couldn't do their job without it.
That quarter by six by twelve sheet of diamond plate would make great sides for a heavy duty dump trailer. It would be a crime to have it for the floor and then to have to cover it with the plastic liners they're putting in the dumps these days.
There are certain considerations that must be handled when living a fun life. First and foremost is finding and then pleasing that woman with discriminating taste and good fortune who loves you.
My wife has a master bath with everything she wanted built in just how she wanted it. She has a green house and garden shed that's built exactly to her specifications.
Of course there were these times when she didn't realize they were her specifications until it was explained to her.
A fair share of the stuff I got tool wise came with first convincing myself I absolutely had to have it. Then I convinced the wife or paying customer that I couldn't do their job without it.
That quarter by six by twelve sheet of diamond plate would make great sides for a heavy duty dump trailer. It would be a crime to have it for the floor and then to have to cover it with the plastic liners they're putting in the dumps these days.
There are certain considerations that must be handled when living a fun life. First and foremost is finding and then pleasing that woman with discriminating taste and good fortune who loves you.
My wife has a master bath with everything she wanted built in just how she wanted it. She has a green house and garden shed that's built exactly to her specifications.
Of course there were these times when she didn't realize they were her specifications until it was explained to her.
dummy
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PAYING CUSTOMERS...?? Now you're starting to sound like her!! So, imagine the look on her face when she realized the backhoe wasn't a loaner or rental, just an addition to the family. Actually, I don't use these tools for profit, just fun and stress relief. That's why I use a goose neck too. No commercial insurance and it gets the job done.
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
One of the smartest men I've known in my life was a banker. I built some corrals and stuff for his place. I noticed a new back hoe front loader one day sitting in a barn. I asked him about it.
He explained it was the best thing he'd ever done for himself. He said that after a hard day of working with people and situations the best thing in the world was to go climb on that tractor and go out and dig a hole.
Digging the hole took a hundred percent concentration. He could get lost doing it. Then he'd fill it back up and go park the tractor and be worth being around for the evening.
He explained it was the best thing he'd ever done for himself. He said that after a hard day of working with people and situations the best thing in the world was to go climb on that tractor and go out and dig a hole.
Digging the hole took a hundred percent concentration. He could get lost doing it. Then he'd fill it back up and go park the tractor and be worth being around for the evening.
Anonymous Poster
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kinda hard to put 14k in a dump trailer? not at all. gravel dirt etc is much heavier than you would expect.i have a ford F600 that has a 12 ft flatbed (dumping) and 16 inch tall sideboards. the truck gvw is 24000 and the trucks light weight is about 10050 lbs. that works out to about 14000 lbs capacity.i have had dirt in the bed that didnt look like too much and just from the way the truck rode and stopped i am sure it was overloaded.just something to think about.remember it almost always weighs more than it looks
dummy
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The kind of heavy where you find yourself going slow and the steering is way easier than normal?
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
I usually figure sand and gravel at twenty five hundred to three thousand pounds a yard.
Soooooooooo....... your 96 cu ft (8' X 12' X 1') of dirt if you only had it an average of one foot high would be ten to twelve thousand pounds. If you had it level it would be twenty five percent more with your sixteen inch sides. That puts you on the low side at twelve five and the high side at sixteen thousand.
One of my buds has a commercial demolition business. If you have to have only one bud make sure it's the bud with the commercial demolition business. The stories I can tell..........
Anyway he picked up a brand new demo dump truck. Chevrolet five ton with the Izuzu chassis and a twenty four foot box with four foot sides. He sent it to a site where they were demolishing some concrete and brick. They filled the truck up, yup, up.
When they got to the dump and started up with the bed the frame broke. Brand new truck, brand new bed, non warranty repair of about seven thousand if I recall correctly.
Just because it fits doesn't mean it works.
Soooooooooo....... your 96 cu ft (8' X 12' X 1') of dirt if you only had it an average of one foot high would be ten to twelve thousand pounds. If you had it level it would be twenty five percent more with your sixteen inch sides. That puts you on the low side at twelve five and the high side at sixteen thousand.
One of my buds has a commercial demolition business. If you have to have only one bud make sure it's the bud with the commercial demolition business. The stories I can tell..........
Anyway he picked up a brand new demo dump truck. Chevrolet five ton with the Izuzu chassis and a twenty four foot box with four foot sides. He sent it to a site where they were demolishing some concrete and brick. They filled the truck up, yup, up.
When they got to the dump and started up with the bed the frame broke. Brand new truck, brand new bed, non warranty repair of about seven thousand if I recall correctly.
Just because it fits doesn't mean it works.
billfires
Gold Member
wroughtn harv, I know exactly how your banker feels. Running the BH is the best stress release I could have imagined. Sometimes getting paid to run it is just the icing on the cake.
Bill C
Bill C
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