hydraulic oil leak near left front wheel

[woodlandfarms]

DO NOT TOUCH THE 7 BOLTS (kinda like saying you don't know how to use the 3 seashells, only good line out of that POS movie).

Anyway, that is the bolts that hold the motor together. Take all of those out without the proper know how and it is cheaper to buy a new motor.

As noted above, you have accomplished removal of the wheel motor. Congratulations. And I mean that seriously. You did some major work on your machine all by yourself.

Yup, $100. It is why I sent my motor to the local repair shop (my machine the motor is around 80lbs) Trying to save as much as I can. If you have a good local hydro shop, it saves that portion of an expensive repair.

 

[MossRoad]

OH, MAN! I never caught the 3 seashells in that movie, that's how bad the movie was. I had to look it up. I'd fallen asleep by that point in the movie. :laughing:

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, looks like he has it out and separated from the motor mount box and in the bag, ready to go.

:thumbsup:

 

[Kaon99]

Hi Guys,
Here is an update.
1) Talked to Terry just now and he said that "wheel motor" means the whole 36 lb unit, notched brake rotor and all. As WoodLand Farms warned, only the repair person should take out the 7 bolts that let you inside. The seal kit and bearing cost close to $90. If I can find a local hydro shop I trust, I may get the parts from powertrac and have the wheel motor fixed locally. Otherwise I will send the unit to Terry at powertrac and pay $100 shipping.

2)Terry said if I start the engine, the hydraulic hoses MUST be connected with a shunt. Otherwise something might blow out due to excess pressure. I am VERY glad I got that info from Terry. Now I need to see if I can find the shunt at NAPA or some other place somewhere near me.

I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Hope to have my machine running in a few weeks to beat back the jungle coming this Spring. I really miss my machine!

Thanks for all your help guys. Will let you know when my machine is healthy again.

Ken

 

[MossRoad]

Sounds good. Now you know you can do this kind of work. Won't be so daunting next time. :thumbsup:

 

[marrt]

I haven't read this thread in detail, but why do you want to start the tractor engine (and shunt the hoses)? Ideally, this thing should stay stationary until you put the repaired wheel motor back on. Further, BE VERY CAREFUL to not introduce any dirt into the wheel motor fittings or circuit (i.e., the now loose wheel motor hoses that you should cap). The wheel motor circuit is "closed" in your tractor. This mean the oil never gets filtered by the large filter you change every 50 hours (not 100% technically true but close enough). The wheel motor/main pump circuit is the most precious regarding the importance of cleanliness. You could probably dump a cup of sand into the main hydraulic reservoir and be OK. But just a little dirt in the wheel motor circuit would not be advisable (unless you intend on fabricating a filter cart for this circuit). I'm not trying to scare you...just be careful and use fitting caps (I didn't see one on the wheel motor picture so I'm suspicious about the hoses).

 

[Kaon99]

Hi Guys,
I shipped off the wheel motor to powertrac today via ups. With packing and insurance, it was $72 one way (ouch!) The fittings on the wheel motor are covered with screw-on caps from napa. The hoses on the the machine are plugged with paper towel plugs. Tomorrow I intend to connect the 2 hydraulic hose with a simple connector. The fellow at napa was very helpful. He pointed out that the 2 hoses could be pulled back and connected with an inexpensive connector, as opposed to napa building a "shunt" (duh!) The reason I want to start my my machine is first of all, is to see if it will start. If it needs a new battery, I will use the time waiting for the wheel motor to return to replace the battery. I will have to go through the ordeal that MossRoad just went through to change his battery. Plus, I need to install a new filter so I have to be able to start my machine. If I am missing something, please let me know. Thanks - Ken

P.S. I am totally convinced that powertrac would go out of business without this forum! It has been a real life saver for me.

 

[MossRoad]

Be sure to do the PB blaster to the exhaust stud bolts several times an hour or two apart before attempting it as others have suggested.

You've done the filter before, and bled the air, correct?