hydraulic oil leak near left front wheel

Kaon99 · Feb 9, 2018

Hi Guys,
Well, some good news at last! I got all 4 bolts loosened up today! I was trying to put all my weight on the wrench when it occurred to me that I could just stand on the wench. Amazingly, that worked! The wrench was about 9" long and I weigh 160 pounds so it took about 120 ft-lbs of torque to do the job. We have 2 days of rain coming so it will be Monday before I can finish the job. Thanks to all of you for your willingness to help. - Ken

woodlandfarms · Feb 9, 2018

So glad it worked BUT!!!! Remember how I said keep your face out of fire. Should have mentioned your legs a well. If that had broke pretty good chance you would end up with a chunk of the wrench in the leg. Seen it.. didn't like it.

You can always use tools so a breaker bar should be on your list for your birthday.

But super glad you got them loose. You too could work for Power-Trac

Kaon99 · Feb 10, 2018

Dear WoodLandFarms,
You make a very good point. I need to go shopping for a safer way to generate more torque. Thanks for the heads up. - Ken

MossRoad · Feb 10, 2018

Glad you got them loose without goobering them up. Harbor frieght has a good selection of inexpensive impact sockets and extensions, as well as breaker bars. Nice to have around for the occasional stuck hydraulic drive motor mounting bolts... :laughing:

Kaon99 · Feb 19, 2018

Hi Guys,
Got the wheel motor off today. Even with the bolts broken loose, it was really, really hard to turn them. Until now I never encountered anything like it. It was a real workout (for me anyway!)

After rereading Terry's instructions I am confused. Quote:Terry said "remove motor mount (4 bolts), pull out motor, replace motor mount on machine."

What I have now is a 50 lb hunk of metal that includes the notched brake wheel in the picture. It looks like there are some more bolts to remove to get inside. At this point the 4 bolts are out and the whole 50 lb thing has been removed. Do I need to remove the bolts on what I have now to get at the wheel motor? (I'm not sure at this point what "wheel motor" means!)

On a different topic I have another question. I want to start the engine and do some work on it. It looks like I have 3 choices:1) put caps on the two hydraulic lines in the picture 2) attach a shunt between the two lines so the hydraulic oil can flow 3) don't do anything. What do you think?

Again, I am most appreciative of the rapid an good advice I have gotten so far.
Ken

MossRoad · Feb 19, 2018

I'm thinking you're gonna have to cap those hoses when you remove them from the wheel motor to lessen the chance of your hydraulic oil draining out on the floor overnight and to prevent dirt from getting in to them. I, personally, wouldn't run the engine while those hoses are disconnected, capped or shunted together. Why? Because I'm chicken!

MossRoad · Feb 19, 2018

I can't help you on the motor removal. Mine is 2001 model year and different mounting system, I think.

74199d1176334971-new-mod-mossroadwheelmotor07-jpg

SpringHollow · Feb 19, 2018

It looks like you have the wheel mount/wheel motor combination removed and now you need to separate them.

Ken

MossRoad · Feb 19, 2018

I'm guessing that if you remove those 4 bolts, the entire motor will slide out of a hole in the mounting plate? I base that on this overhead picture of your motor.