Hydraulic top link

[galaxie428]

This may seem like a silly question to some of you but I know very little about hydraulics and tractors. I have a CT230 with one set of rear remotes. I am looking into getting a hydro top link. I assume I can control it with my rear remotes without adding anything additional other than the top link and hoses. Is this correct?

If any of you have added one to your 230, what bore and length are you using?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[Sprocket]

Correct, you can control it with the rear remote lever. Just add the link and hoses.

Do you have one or two controls?

I called CCM with the dimensions of my manual link and went from there. I believe I have a 2" bore and 1/4" hoses. I went with 30" hoses and put a loop in them for flexibility. I can't tell you the length and stroke due to my tractor being in another location but I can say the one CCM provided has more than enough travel in both directions for my box blade. Hydraulic top link is by far the best thing I have done to my tractor.

 

[galaxie428]

Thanks Sprocket.

If by control you mean the control for my remotes then I only have one lever. It has an "A" & a "B".

 

[Sprocket]

Thanks Sprocket.

If by control you mean the control for my remotes then I only have one lever. It has an "A" & a "B".

That will work fine for the toplink. You can add one more for a tilt cylinder or get one with a detent to run attachments with downstream controls.

You will be very happy with a hydraulic toplink though. Get one with a double piloted check valve (keeps the cylinder locked in the desired position by not allowing it to bleed down through the system)...you won't be sorry. You can get a top quality cylinder from CCM for less than $200. Hoses can be made locally. I used a piece of fuel line to figure out routing and length. Don't forget to allow for full movement of the 3pt when you get hoses made.

 

[galaxie428]

You can get a top quality cylinder from CCM for less than $200.

Ouch, since I just bought a tiller, this may have to wait a bit. I thought I saw them for around $50 or so at Agri-supply. Maybe those don't have the double piloted check valve that you mentioned.

 

[tulenutn2o]

I too, have 1 set of remotes. If I want both top-n-tilt, do I need the second set of remotes? Is there a complete kit for top-n-tilt out there? Thanks

 

[SensibleNick]

Woohoo... I'll jump in too. I had the same question.. kinda.

I have a 1.5" diameter cylinder knocking about that is the right length for a top-link. My 3-point is rated to 450Kg.. It should do the job... right?

I'll be skipping the expensive valving: I reckon my remote will do a good enough job for me

 

[IXLR8]

I too, have 1 set of remotes. If I want both top-n-tilt, do I need the second set of remotes? Is there a complete kit for top-n-tilt out there? Thanks

you need one set of remotes for each cylinder, for Top and Tilt- 2 remotes needed. Kits for adding another remote should be available.

 

[lilranch2001]

Not to be stupid, well I guess I am.... but
What is top n tilt?

 

[tulenutn2o]

Hydraulic top link and a hydraulic side link. That way we doesn't have to get off tractor to adjust implements as often.:thumbsup:

 

[lilranch2001]

OK, I know what the top link cylinder would be good for, but what would the side cylinder be good for?

 

[OKCMoparGuy]

Not an expert on this either but from what I've seen t-n-t allows you lower one side (right front and right rear) so you can carve out ditches, etc.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Top & Tilt makes adjustments of grading type implements to be made in motion while you are grading. Very very convenient. Top link adjusts the tilt of the blade front to back while the side link allows you to adjust the blade side to side which is a common necessity when road grading.

 

[lilranch2001]

so you put a cyliner in place of the riight side lower ajustable link?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

so you put a cyliner in place of the riight side lower ajustable link?

Yes, that way you can easily adjust for slopes, crowning of roads, roadside ditches etc.

 

[lilranch2001]

ahh yeah I see how that will make life much easier grading, looks like will be high on my "customizing" priority list

 

[eternalwolf777]

Last week I was at a local dealer and saw a demonstration somebody was doing. It was for self-contained hydraulic top link. It didn't have any hoses at all. The thing made small adjustments on the fly while he used a box blade on some gravel. It was pretty slick.

 

[lilranch2001]

do you know who the manufacturer is?

 

[Sabretooth]

:drink:

Last week I was at a local dealer and saw a demonstration somebody was doing. It was for self-contained hydraulic top link. It didn't have any hoses at all. The thing made small adjustments on the fly while he used a box blade on some gravel. It was pretty slick.

I dont understand :confused2: sorry but if the cylinder was self contained how was the guy adjusting it on the fly? and where is the control to angle it. I thought the whole point of the cylinder was to place the blade the way you wanted it with pressure holding it and moving it to that angle. How did the self contained make the pressure I would think it be the same as a manual toplink Again I need a cold :drink:

 

[tulenutn2o]

:drink:

I dont understand :confused2: sorry but if the cylinder was self contained how was the guy adjusting it on the fly? and where is the control to angle it. I thought the whole point of the cylinder was to place the blade the way you wanted it with pressure holding it and moving it to that angle. How did the self contained make the pressure I would think it be the same as a manual toplink Again I need a cold :drink:

It was probably a linear actuator.