hydraulic top-link

[shu]

The Case IH 45A comes with an auxilliary hydraulic valve; the control lever outboard of the 3-point hitch control lever, and the hydraulic line ports behind the seat.

Hydraulic top-link immediately came to mind. Research on this site showed fitritehydraulics.com had good recommendations. As Brian notes, however, his top-links are custom made - so expect to wait several weeks.

The part arrived a few days ago, and mounted easily.

As I expected, range of motion is wider than with the factory manual adjust top-link. Access to the underside of the mower for washing and blade grinding will be easier.

Of course with the wider range of motion there may be mechanical conflicts - as with the hitch full up and the top-link extending full out. Best to check the full range carefully with each attachment.

I've tried the hydraulic top-link with some dirt work also. The extended range allows for a much more aggressive bite angle.


Also, compared to using just the 3-point hitch lever, there is finer control of the opening when feeding out material from the carry - once I've got past the learning curve on that(!).

 

[Texasmark]

I have mixed emotions on the subject. After 35 years of being a converted urbanite, I used a standard threaded 3rd member. Recently on here I read about using a cylinder. Made sense. So I did and really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark

Would you expand on your thoughts here. I think I understand what you are saying but just want to make sure.

I got a HTL from Fit Rite a couple or three years ago. I think I experienced the same thing you are talking about. The range of motion doesn't stay completely set as much as with a threaded link. In fact, I can shorten it to get an increased amount of lift (kinda like shu's picture of the squealer), and it will leak down considerably after a short period of time. It has done that ever since I bought it.

Recently while using the HTL, the cylinder totally failed and dropped my flail mower to the ground. I am going to contact Brian to see if they have some sort of warranty for the cylinder. I'll probably be out of luck based on the time that has passed since I bought it. Brian, if you see this, maybe you will want to comment.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Would you expand on your thoughts here. I think I understand what you are saying but just want to make sure.

I got a HTL from Fit Rite a couple or three years ago. I think I experienced the same thing you are talking about. The range of motion doesn't stay completely set as much as with a threaded link. In fact, I can shorten it to get an increased amount of lift (kinda like shu's picture of the squealer), and it will leak down considerably after a short period of time. It has done that ever since I bought it.

Recently while using the HTL, the cylinder totally failed and dropped my flail mower to the ground. I am going to contact Brian to see if they have some sort of warranty for the cylinder. I'll probably be out of luck based on the time that has passed since I bought it. Brian, if you see this, maybe you will want to comment.

If the unit has actually failed, send it back and I will either rebuild it or build you a new unit. Limited lifetime warranty. As far as the unit leaking down from day one, my $$$ would be that your control valve is bad. (leaks) Easy way to have checked this would have been to simple un-plug the hoses and see if it still leaked down. 99 out of 100 times it is the control valve. Contact me on the Fit Rite contact page and we can get this taken care of. See if you can find when you actually made the purchase, makes it much easier to track things down.

 

[GManBart]

I have mixed emotions on the subject. After 35 years of being a converted urbanite, I used a standard threaded 3rd member. Recently on here I read about using a cylinder. Made sense. So I did and really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark

I ran one of Brian's hydraulic top links on my LS with a 1,400lb counterweight and never, ever had it change position on me...even after running the machine all day. That was a new tractor, which helps, but I've lost track of the number of times I've had mechanical screw-type top links vibrate out of position...very annoying.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I'm with GMan, well the threaded link part. Mine lengthens on its own far too often. I'd like to put a HTL on it but too many other things above it on the wish list right now. The valve is there waiting for it when I get there

 

[Fallon]

My Fit-Rite TnT cylinders & valve take at least a day if not 2 to get any noticeable sag in them when its hot out & being used. Several days when not being used & its cold out.

 

[bumperm]

Another approach to eliminate creep down (assuming you do not need float function) is to use a pilot controlled check valve. This essentially "locks" the cylinder in whatever position you put it. Here's a top link with dual pilot controlled check valves (DPCCV).

Since I have no need for float on TnT, this works nicely:

2X8.25X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

Only disadvantage, so far, is I'll sometimes shut down the tractor before dropping the attachment, so if I want it all the way down and need to extend the top link to do that, gotta start the tractor again.

bumper

 

[Fallon]

I've found float on both cylinders useful. Float on the top makes for easy brush hogging. Float on the side often makes running the box or scraper blade & tiller nicer.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My experience is that most people that think that they do not need the float function either do not understand why or where to make use of it or they simply do not have the circumstances where it would be beneficial, although I have no idea what those conditions might be. :confused3:

 

[bumperm]

I agree that float for the top link would be useful when using a rotary brush cutter (aka brushhog). Although the terrain I mow is hilly, I don't need the top link to float as the rear of my mower is supported up to the top link via a chain, which naturally has built in float.

Still don't know of any specific instances where tilt float might be useful - but I'm ready to learn. I have a hydraulic tilt cylinder that adjusts to tilt the box scrapper to either side. Like most small tractors, the 3 point doesn't have down force and so provides float to both sides of the box scraper, tilted or no, when the lever is in the down position.

 

[Monster5601]

I agree that float for the top link would be useful when using a rotary brush cutter (aka brushhog). Although the terrain I mow is hilly, I don't need the top link to float as the rear of my mower is supported up to the top link via a chain, which naturally has built in float.

Still don't know of any specific instances where tilt float might be useful - but I'm ready to learn. I have a hydraulic tilt cylinder that adjusts to tilt the box scrapper to either side. Like most small tractors, the 3 point doesn't have down force and so provides float to both sides of the box scraper, tilted or no, when the lever is in the down position.

My Bush Hog (branded) has plenty of upper link movement built into it where a floating top link would have no valve. I too wonder what a top link float would be used for.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I am trying to understand this too. My 3 point (B21) has a valve under the seat that adjusts drop rate. Closed all the way it locks the 3 point. Open all the way, the 3 point goes up with no resistance at all. I use that setting for bush hogging and raking. I haven't been able to figure out what the float in a hydraulic top link would do different from that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have plenty of customers that have mowers that do not move enough to allow the mower to move enough forward and backwards to follow their rough terrain, banks along ponds, hillsides etc.

As far as float on the 3pt lower arms, yes both arms will move up and down TOGETHER. Having float on the side link allows for that floating action to be independent of each other. Where or why would a person want that you are thinking. When doing a final smoothing action of a road is a perfect example. Especially at an intersection where the camber of the road changes as you go around the corner. You want the implement to follow the ground contour, not the tractor as it goes around the corner. Other wise you would either be digging in or leaving material. With the implement following the surface, you have neither, you get a firm smooth surface. I do this all the time at the several intersections of roads-drives that I maintain. Others use this feature when using a landscape rake over rough terrain. They are not looking or even wanting to flatten the surface out, just want to clean it up. Having and using the float function with a hydraulic side link allows this to happen.

There are a couple of examples.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am trying to understand this too. My 3 point (B21) has a valve under the seat that adjusts drop rate. Closed all the way it locks the 3 point. Open all the way, the 3 point goes up with no resistance at all. I use that setting for bush hogging and raking. I haven't been able to figure out what the float in a hydraulic top link would do different from that.

Float function with a hydraulic top link allows the tail of the mower to move UP & DOWN. Believe it or not, all mowers do not have the swivel hitch mount and there are people that even with that swivel hitch mount, the mower does not move enough to allow the mower to follow the ground that they happen to be mowing.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Very helpful explanations. Thanks!

 

[Threepoint]

Float function with a hydraulic top link allows the tail of the mower to move UP & DOWN. Believe it or not, all mowers do not have the swivel hitch mount and there are people that even with that swivel hitch mount, the mower does not move enough to allow the mower to follow the ground that they happen to be mowing.

Brian, sounds like float function at the rear remotes is good to have, especially with a mower. But am I wrong in thinking that to have the hydraulic top and sidelinks float, the remote valves themselves must have float capability? I'm thinking that a lot of factory-installed rear remotes do not.

 

[Fallon]

My Bush Hog (branded) has plenty of upper link movement built into it where a floating top link would have no valve. I too wonder what a top link float would be used for.

My LandPride has a flex link on top too, & I still use float. I've thought about removing the hinged link for easier hitching with the quick hitch. I normally leave the top in float for contour following. However its dam nice to kick it out of float & carry the mower just off the ground &back over a ditch or what not with things level. You've already seen the extra lift you can get with the top link to service the underside of the mower (tractor off & put "jack stands" under there first please)

No use for the side link while using a 3pt rotary cutter I've found. It would just let one side drag unless you fabbed up some front gauge wheels (thought about that, but probably not worth the effort). Its still useful for hitching, I can capture the bottom pins on the quick hitch without getting off no matter how crooked I left the cutter sitting. The flex link messes that up for the top link on the rotary cutter though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, sounds like float function at the rear remotes is good to have, especially with a mower. But am I wrong in thinking that to have the hydraulic top and sidelinks float, the remote valves themselves must have float capability? I'm thinking that a lot of factory-installed rear remotes do not.

Yes, the valves themselves have to have the float function. Unfortunately you are correct in that at least half or the OEM remotes do not even have the option of having the float function and then a lot of the others have it as an option and since the majority of people have no idea what, why or where the float function would be used, they simply do not get it.

It comes down to education, for the consumer, for the dealer and for the manufacturers. It's a long road to go before the majority truly understand.

 

[bumperm]

Brian,

Okay, thanks for the explanation of when tilt float would be used. You are correct, when I ordered my Kubota I had the option of getting float for the rear remotes - - and had no clue what that might be used for, didn't have float on a previous TnT, so simply didn't order float - a low cost addition too (rare when buying a new tractor!).

If that oversight ever became critical, one could add it by connecting cylinder ports with a valve between.

bumper