hydraulic top-link

   / hydraulic top-link #1  

shu

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
52
Location
tip of texas
Tractor
Case IH 45A
The Case IH 45A comes with an auxilliary hydraulic valve; the control lever outboard of the 3-point hitch control lever, and the hydraulic line ports behind the seat.
TopLink-01.JPG
Hydraulic top-link immediately came to mind. Research on this site showed fitritehydraulics.com had good recommendations. As Brian notes, however, his top-links are custom made - so expect to wait several weeks.

The part arrived a few days ago, and mounted easily.
TopLink-02.JPG
As I expected, range of motion is wider than with the factory manual adjust top-link. Access to the underside of the mower for washing and blade grinding will be easier.
TopLink-03.JPG
Of course with the wider range of motion there may be mechanical conflicts - as with the hitch full up and the top-link extending full out. Best to check the full range carefully with each attachment.
TopLink-04.JPG
I've tried the hydraulic top-link with some dirt work also. The extended range allows for a much more aggressive bite angle.
TopLink-06.JPG
TopLink-05.JPG
Also, compared to using just the 3-point hitch lever, there is finer control of the opening when feeding out material from the carry - once I've got past the learning curve on that(!).
 
   / hydraulic top-link #2  
I have mixed emotions on the subject. After 35 years of being a converted urbanite, I used a standard threaded 3rd member. Recently on here I read about using a cylinder. Made sense. So I did and really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark
 
   / hydraulic top-link #3  
really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark
Would you expand on your thoughts here. I think I understand what you are saying but just want to make sure.

I got a HTL from Fit Rite a couple or three years ago. I think I experienced the same thing you are talking about. The range of motion doesn't stay completely set as much as with a threaded link. In fact, I can shorten it to get an increased amount of lift (kinda like shu's picture of the squealer), and it will leak down considerably after a short period of time. It has done that ever since I bought it.

Recently while using the HTL, the cylinder totally failed and dropped my flail mower to the ground. I am going to contact Brian to see if they have some sort of warranty for the cylinder. I'll probably be out of luck based on the time that has passed since I bought it. Brian, if you see this, maybe you will want to comment.
 
   / hydraulic top-link #4  
Would you expand on your thoughts here. I think I understand what you are saying but just want to make sure.

I got a HTL from Fit Rite a couple or three years ago. I think I experienced the same thing you are talking about. The range of motion doesn't stay completely set as much as with a threaded link. In fact, I can shorten it to get an increased amount of lift (kinda like shu's picture of the squealer), and it will leak down considerably after a short period of time. It has done that ever since I bought it.

Recently while using the HTL, the cylinder totally failed and dropped my flail mower to the ground. I am going to contact Brian to see if they have some sort of warranty for the cylinder. I'll probably be out of luck based on the time that has passed since I bought it. Brian, if you see this, maybe you will want to comment.

If the unit has actually failed, send it back and I will either rebuild it or build you a new unit. Limited lifetime warranty. As far as the unit leaking down from day one, my $$$ would be that your control valve is bad. (leaks) Easy way to have checked this would have been to simple un-plug the hoses and see if it still leaked down. 99 out of 100 times it is the control valve. Contact me on the Fit Rite contact page and we can get this taken care of. See if you can find when you actually made the purchase, makes it much easier to track things down. ;)
 
   / hydraulic top-link #5  
I have mixed emotions on the subject. After 35 years of being a converted urbanite, I used a standard threaded 3rd member. Recently on here I read about using a cylinder. Made sense. So I did and really like the ability to do as you say and all but as hyd fluid gets hot the piston expands and you have to keep tabs on what you are doing. Not a big deal but have to pay attention.

My 2c,
Mark

I ran one of Brian's hydraulic top links on my LS with a 1,400lb counterweight and never, ever had it change position on me...even after running the machine all day. That was a new tractor, which helps, but I've lost track of the number of times I've had mechanical screw-type top links vibrate out of position...very annoying.
 
   / hydraulic top-link #6  
I'm with GMan, well the threaded link part. Mine lengthens on its own far too often. I'd like to put a HTL on it but too many other things above it on the wish list right now. The valve is there waiting for it when I get there
 
   / hydraulic top-link #7  
My Fit-Rite TnT cylinders & valve take at least a day if not 2 to get any noticeable sag in them when its hot out & being used. Several days when not being used & its cold out.
 
   / hydraulic top-link #8  
Another approach to eliminate creep down (assuming you do not need float function) is to use a pilot controlled check valve. This essentially "locks" the cylinder in whatever position you put it. Here's a top link with dual pilot controlled check valves (DPCCV).

Since I have no need for float on TnT, this works nicely:

2X8.25X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

Only disadvantage, so far, is I'll sometimes shut down the tractor before dropping the attachment, so if I want it all the way down and need to extend the top link to do that, gotta start the tractor again.

bumper
 
   / hydraulic top-link #9  
I've found float on both cylinders useful. Float on the top makes for easy brush hogging. Float on the side often makes running the box or scraper blade & tiller nicer.
 
   / hydraulic top-link #10  
My experience is that most people that think that they do not need the float function either do not understand why or where to make use of it or they simply do not have the circumstances where it would be beneficial, although I have no idea what those conditions might be. :confused3:
 
 

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