Hydro Cooler Failure TC-40D

[jinman]

I don't think a radiator shop can deal with the kind of pressures seen in a hydraulic oil cooler. Radiators run at very low pressures comparatively speaking.

I think you are right, Mike. How about an air conditioning shop? Since you were in the HVAC business at one time, do you think an AC shop might have the solder type and equipment to repair and test the cooler?

 

[PineRidge]

Jim here's the way I see it. If a new cooler from NH is 200 bucks, what might a HVAC dealer charge to repair, and further test a hydraulic oil cooler. $$$$ I can't imagine a big savings nor would I expect much of a warranty on the repair itself. In my opinion a replacement would be the most prudent solution here.

 

[Doc_Bob]

In my opinion a replacement would be the most prudent solution here.

I agree with Mike.
Bob

 

[holstein05]

Hmmm, well I don't want to discredit what ya'll say, 'cause I don't have any radiator/AC experince to speak of, but it does raise some questions in my mind. I can see from looking at the crack that it's most likely aluminum material. And it looks relatively thin to me. Why would NH use a thin Aluminum for such a high pressure application? And, how many PSI's would you say that system sees?

 

[jinman]

Why would NH use a thin Aluminum for such a high pressure application? And, how many PSI's would you say that system sees?

If it is actually aluminum, all bets are off regarding soldering. I think that would take a weld. Soldering works well on copper and brass and will sometimes be pure lead, pure tin, tin/lead, tin/lead/antimony, silver, or perhaps some other metal alloys to achieve the best strength and temperature range. The charge pump pressure to the cooler can be as high as 300 psi with cold fluid, so that's what Mike means by much higher pressures than a radiator. A radiator normally has a pressure relief set at around 14 psi.

As PineRidge pointed out, you could easily spend more than the replacement cost while trying to repair the cooler. I wouldn't discourage you from trying as long as you know what you are getting into and report back on how it turns out.

 

[holstein05]

Thanks Jim, that's helpfull.

I think what I am going to do is go to a repair shop and get a quote, as well as an opinion on if they think they can make a good weld.

If it's reasonable, I'll try the repair. If not, I'll replace the part. And, I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks again.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Thanks Jim, that's helpfull.

I think what I am going to do is go to a repair shop and get a quote, as well as an opinion on if they think they can make a good weld.

Thanks again.

Update us on what you find out.
Bob

 

[AlanB]

The people that you need to fix it are the motorcycle radiator repair specialists.

It is normally about $50 and they can fix them.

I believe the shop name is Mylers and they are out west somewhere..

here is the link http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/

They have done several for me (Tree's grow in the darndest places) and have always done exceptional work.

You need a fine and experienced hand with a TIG to do these, your average radiator shop will not touch them.

Competition Machine and Welding also does these. cmwmerlin at hotmail.com (tell him Alan Bechard sent you)

If it was mine I would do it, if you want it done free, but no warranty I will do it for you (you pay shipping both ways though) but if I was concerned and wanted it done quick and right (what I would suggest) is one of these two shops who do those all day, every day.

OH! one other caveat, once you let somebody put some super goop glue fix all solder liguid metal wonder cure crap on it. It is junk for a welder. Never seen that stuff work, but once it is on there in the fins and stuff, it is impossible to get all of it out and clean enough to weld aluminum.

 

[Soundguy]

Hmm.. tieing the hoses in a loop. That looks very similar to what is on my 7610s... looks like that is finally catching on for the CUT line.

As for a radiator shop..? Are you looking for a generic trans cooler ? etc..

Soundguy

Yip, that's the new style. Note the "washer" located at the base of the fitting. Also noteworthy is the way the hoses are attached to the the lower end of the cooler with a hose loop thinging. This is not for decoration.
I called my dealer and had to give him the new part number that I got off this website... He then found the note that said this new cooler replaces the old one and the tying of the hoses to the lower part of the cooler is to reduce vibration and lower the likelihood of another failure.

New cooler Price: $208.

Time to go to the local radiator shop and give that a shot first. If it fails in the near future, then I'll have to dish out the cash I guess..

 

[Soundguy]

A hi bearing silver solder will stick to aluminum fine.. though my choice would be one o fthe new solder-alloy sticks.. I think they are commonly sold as "alum-alloy' on tv.. etc. The are decent for cast and aluminum. I've seen plenty of decent looking aluminum repairs with them.. though you really can't 'build up' with them.. only glue pieces together. ( I say a guy solder a aluminum drink can up that he cut in half... couldn't tell from the outside, except where the printing was gone... If you had a aluminum washer that could be layed down to solder on, then solder over.. that may do it... otherwise my vote is for a real aluminum welder. ( side observation.. I've seen aluminum rods for stick welders.. fluxed and all. One day I gotta try this with my low amperage unit and see just how bad it looks!!! )

Soundguy

If it is actually aluminum, all bets are off regarding soldering. I think that would take a weld. Soldering works well on copper and brass and will sometimes be pure lead, pure tin, tin/lead, tin/lead/antimony, silver, or perhaps some other metal alloys to achieve the best strength and temperature range. The charge pump pressure to the cooler can be as high as 300 psi with cold fluid, so that's what Mike means by much higher pressures than a radiator. A radiator normally has a pressure relief set at around 14 psi.

As PineRidge pointed out, you could easily spend more than the replacement cost while trying to repair the cooler. I wouldn't discourage you from trying as long as you know what you are getting into and report back on how it turns out.