thcri
Elite Member
Neal,
I will ditto that statement.
murph
I will ditto that statement.
murph
Hydro vs Geared
- Thread starter MAW
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Anonymous Poster
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks again, I am very glad my wife found you!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font> Now there's something ya don't see everyday! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Seriously, thanks for asking, I'm kicking around the hydro/gear thing myself and have found some useful information.
JATO_RaT
Veteran Member
Neal, that certainly has been my experience too. I just checked this post, did not read any except yours because thats where it went when I selected "hydro vs gear" and without getting too caught up in the discussion, I think your quite correct. I own(ed) 2 tractors until just a 2 weeks ago. I had a Kubota L48 and still own a International 454. Ones hydro anf the other a manual 8 speed. My next tractor will be hydro because I just don't do frequently enough, the ripping you describe other then some shallow boxscrsaper stuff. Rat
Darren
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The only reason I bought a hydro was to try to entice the little lady to use the tractor. After riding a Gravely backwards down a hill into a fence after she tried to change gears, I though the hydro might suit her. I had none of the concerns most folks consider.
Well turns out she's never used the tractor. I've put all the hours on it. Having both geared and hydro on the place, I can say I would never buy a geared tractor again. A hydro is so simple to use you can totally concentrate on the work.
Other than occasionally changing the range, you don't think about shifting. Add to that I can creep along slower than most geared tractors and still maintain pto rpm for cutting really tall grass or brush. I've cut grass and weeds with a belly mower that were over 5' high.
The ability to "inch" the tractor means I can ease into something much slower than first gear on most tractors. It also means on treacherous slopes, I can go extremely slow to navigate obstacles. Works for me.
Well turns out she's never used the tractor. I've put all the hours on it. Having both geared and hydro on the place, I can say I would never buy a geared tractor again. A hydro is so simple to use you can totally concentrate on the work.
Other than occasionally changing the range, you don't think about shifting. Add to that I can creep along slower than most geared tractors and still maintain pto rpm for cutting really tall grass or brush. I've cut grass and weeds with a belly mower that were over 5' high.
The ability to "inch" the tractor means I can ease into something much slower than first gear on most tractors. It also means on treacherous slopes, I can go extremely slow to navigate obstacles. Works for me.
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
neal: VERY WELL SAID. <font color="red">I NEED ADD NO MORE </font>
BWS
Silver Member
i agree with ns in tex.same go,s for a truck on the road.if you haul a fifth wheel down the open highways get a gear trany.more useful power.around the city or short stop and go driving,go with a automatic.cost for repairs??do you consider this when you buy a truck??probably not.jmo bws[ps i have a diesel/gear truck[we tow alot] and a hydro tractor.bws
Anonymous Poster
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Darren, so do you want to give me the Gravely ? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
WVBill
Veteran Member
I'll add another advantage for the hydro, similar to what Darren said about keeping the PTO speed up while creeping - hydraulic actions (e.g. FEL movements) are faster.
With a geared tractor like my Kubota B6100 when doing FEL work like moving a dirt pile I have two choices: I can set the hand throttle to keep the engine rpm up and hydraulic pump making a lot of pressure/flow so that the FEL moves quickly - but that means doing all tractor speed control with brake and clutch and slamming into the pile at full throttle. Or I can use the foot throttle, ease into the dirt pile and back off the throttle - but then the FEL runs slowly unless I take it out of gear and run up the rpms.
With a hydro, as I understand it, you're always running the engine/hydraulic pump at higher speed so you always have max hydraulic flow and FEL quickness.
With a geared tractor like my Kubota B6100 when doing FEL work like moving a dirt pile I have two choices: I can set the hand throttle to keep the engine rpm up and hydraulic pump making a lot of pressure/flow so that the FEL moves quickly - but that means doing all tractor speed control with brake and clutch and slamming into the pile at full throttle. Or I can use the foot throttle, ease into the dirt pile and back off the throttle - but then the FEL runs slowly unless I take it out of gear and run up the rpms.
With a hydro, as I understand it, you're always running the engine/hydraulic pump at higher speed so you always have max hydraulic flow and FEL quickness.
Anonymous Poster
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Hands down the Hydro's are easier to use and more versatile. The only operational problems I have heard of occur with some models on steeper slopes, ie One model ( I forget which one ) will quit going when going up a fairly steep slope because of the hydro pickup tube being on one end.
It is VERY probable that the hydro will cost more to repair over long term ownership and require more skilled hands and specialized tools to repair it than the average owner has.
If you plan on trading in your tractor every 10 years or so, and do not use it exclusively for plowing then the Hydro is the way to go. If you plan on keeping your tractor forever and are concerned with the long term operating cost then you might want to consider things a bit more.
I wish there were a way to accurately collect service/repair info on the newer hydro tractors. Of course dealers would not want to do this as every brand of tractor has had a stinker or two /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Above all enjoy safe tractoring.
It is VERY probable that the hydro will cost more to repair over long term ownership and require more skilled hands and specialized tools to repair it than the average owner has.
If you plan on trading in your tractor every 10 years or so, and do not use it exclusively for plowing then the Hydro is the way to go. If you plan on keeping your tractor forever and are concerned with the long term operating cost then you might want to consider things a bit more.
I wish there were a way to accurately collect service/repair info on the newer hydro tractors. Of course dealers would not want to do this as every brand of tractor has had a stinker or two /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Above all enjoy safe tractoring.
timb
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The biggest "problem" I see with the hydro vs gear wars is no one has been able to actually quantify the "magic" dividing line. Meaning - most people agree the worst situation to put a hydro in is heavy, steady ground engagement. It's not the horsepower loss per se - it's where it goes. The missing drawbar horsepower doesn't magically evaporate. It's being consumed by the inherent inefficiencies of the hydro transmission - ultimately being turned to heat. Heat is the enemy of most things mechanical. But - since Nebraska doesn't test CUTs - how can that statement ever be qualified? Just how much ground engagement or like work does it take before you're asking for trouble with a CUT hydro?
I was originally convinced I was better off with a shuttle shift due to the mix of jobs I thought I would have. At this point I'm still convinced that those jobs are better served by a gear tranny, I'm just less confident that I had the right job mix "score" for my property.
I "plan" on running a (single shank) sub-soiler pretty extensively to break up old hardpan over time over about 10-12 acres - but most is likely a one-time deal. I "plan" on plowing/disking several acres (at most) every year. Is that too much for a big CUT hydro or well within their limit? Dunno. Pretty much all the other jobs I have shouldn't be an issue and there certainly are plenty of times when a hydro would be a lot more "user friendly".
Sure be nice if the mfgs. would include a transmission temperature gauge with appropriate acceptable temperature ranges - you'd know then if you needed to back off (or add an auxilary cooler).
I recently realized there is one last angle I never anticipated. We've been looking around for a decent lawn/garden tractor to handle the small work and lawn mowing. Looking at the current JD riders - their two-pedal set up mimics the 4000Ten controls. The light bulb went off that if we do buy a new one with that set up - it might be a lot more comfortable transition for the better half if she ever wants to use the bigger tractor.
I was originally convinced I was better off with a shuttle shift due to the mix of jobs I thought I would have. At this point I'm still convinced that those jobs are better served by a gear tranny, I'm just less confident that I had the right job mix "score" for my property.
I "plan" on running a (single shank) sub-soiler pretty extensively to break up old hardpan over time over about 10-12 acres - but most is likely a one-time deal. I "plan" on plowing/disking several acres (at most) every year. Is that too much for a big CUT hydro or well within their limit? Dunno. Pretty much all the other jobs I have shouldn't be an issue and there certainly are plenty of times when a hydro would be a lot more "user friendly".
Sure be nice if the mfgs. would include a transmission temperature gauge with appropriate acceptable temperature ranges - you'd know then if you needed to back off (or add an auxilary cooler).
I recently realized there is one last angle I never anticipated. We've been looking around for a decent lawn/garden tractor to handle the small work and lawn mowing. Looking at the current JD riders - their two-pedal set up mimics the 4000Ten controls. The light bulb went off that if we do buy a new one with that set up - it might be a lot more comfortable transition for the better half if she ever wants to use the bigger tractor.