hydrolic top link

[Brok]

I use my top link with box blade like others stated. My favorite uses are for haying. I can easily adjust the cutting height on my krone 283 disc mower. Picking up round bales with spear then tilting them up keeps them from falling off spear. Works great with disc harrow and bush hog as well.

 

[Xfaxman]

It makes a rear scoop work much better.

From July 2004, back when I had a tractor:

 

[Industrial Toys]

Why are North American Tractos so Cheap when it comes to remotes? I only had one on our JD 6200. Put another on the back and another for the grapple up front.

My Harley Rake has three circuits alone, but fortunately has a diverter valve. If it didn't and I wanted TNT, that would be FIVE SCVs out back and the electric one for the grapple. There isn't even room for that many!

Is the tilt any good for snowblower use or does it cause problems as far as unintententional digging in? Or getting the angle just right again after moving it? My rear 3ph snow blower is very sensitive to driveline angle, so I have never used the tilt cylinder. If I reduce the angle of attack too much, the driveline protests loudly!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well stated.

If you can only afford one, start with the top link. Then you'll want the side link even more.

I firmly believe a tractor that is purchased to do 3pt work needs triple rear hydraulics.

Why 3? :confused3: The second hydraulic side link is a total waste IMO.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Why are North American Tractos so Cheap when it comes to remotes? I only had one on our JD 6200. Put another on the back and another for the grapple up front.

My Harley Rake has three circuits alone, but fortunately has a diverter valve. If it didn't and I wanted TNT, that would be FIVE SCVs out back and the electric one for the grapple. There isn't even room for that many!

Is the tilt any good for snowblower use or does it cause problems as far as unintententional digging in? Or getting the angle just right again after moving it? My rear 3ph snow blower is very sensitive to driveline angle, so I have never used the tilt cylinder. If I reduce the angle of attack too much, the driveline protests loudly!

I have customers use the float function on the side link to allow their snow blower follow the road better. This may not work with all snow blowers, I have no idea.

As far as adjustments, after a bit of use, you get a feeling for where things are and is not that big of a deal to make the adjustments to where you want them.

 

[Fallon]

Why 3? :confused3: The second hydraulic side link is a total waste IMO.

Top, Tilt & that other function you need (blade angle, power scarfiers, etc...)

 

[Fallon]

I have customers use the float function on the side link to allow their snow blower follow the road better. This may not work with all snow blowers, I have no idea.

As far as adjustments, after a bit of use, you get a feeling for where things are and is not that big of a deal to make the adjustments to where you want them.

I've only used my blower a few times, but haven't gotten the impression the top link makes a huge difference. I've got good shoes under my blower cutting edge, so I don't have much of a digging problem. It could be handy if you blower is digging into the dirt or lifting though.

 

[bcp]

With only one adjustable side link (hydraulic or manual) the implement end on the adjustable side will adjust up and down about 3 times farther than the other side.

Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Top, Tilt & that other function you need (blade angle, power scarfiers, etc...)

If Richard was talking about rear remotes, then yes 3 at a minimum. I have 4 on my small tractor and 3 on the big one which needs 5. I just sold a system that got the guy 7 sets of rear remotes on the back of his LS. I thought that he was talking about hydraulic cylinders on the 3pt hitch. Some people think that both side links should be hydraulic, I disagree is all. Almost every time, (90%+) a single hydraulic side link that provides an equal amount of angle to each side gets the job done just fine.

Just my :2cents:

 

[Industrial Toys]

It might actually be time for manufacturers to offer dual lift arms. Operate them together or seperately. Wouldn't that be sweet?

The problem with blower ajustments is that usually I have made myself a good amount of repair work in the spring before I realize something is off!

 

[ovrszd]

Why 3? :confused3: The second hydraulic side link is a total waste IMO.

Wow,,,, I almost use my hydraulic side link as much as the top link. If you are using a BB how do you get one side to cut?? I even use it to "level" my brush cutter when cutting road banks.

I said three because with TnT and 2 remotes you have nothing left to run implement hydraulics. My BB has hydraulic scarifiers. I pull a hydraulic lift wheel disc. I pull a hydraulic clamshell scraper. I use a hydraulic angle 3pt snow blade. All which require 3 remotes. Unless you want to disable a function.

 

[ovrszd]

If Richard was talking about rear remotes, then yes 3 at a minimum. I have 4 on my small tractor and 3 on the big one which needs 5. I just sold a system that got the guy 7 sets of rear remotes on the back of his LS. I thought that he was talking about hydraulic cylinders on the 3pt hitch. Some people think that both side links should be hydraulic, I disagree is all. Almost every time, (90%+) a single hydraulic side link that provides an equal amount of angle to each side gets the job done just fine.

Just my :2cents:

Ooppss, should have read forward Brian. Yeah, I was talking about rear remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow,,,, I almost use my hydraulic side link as much as the top link. If you are using a BB how do you get one side to cut?? I even use it to "level" my brush cutter when cutting road banks.

I said three because with TnT and 2 remotes you have nothing left to run implement hydraulics. My BB has hydraulic scarifiers. I pull a hydraulic lift wheel disc. I pull a hydraulic clamshell scraper. I use a hydraulic angle 3pt snow blade. All which require 3 remotes. Unless you want to disable a function.

Richard, use varies immensely from person-person. (reads customer-customer) I use my side link more than the top link. When I first got my small tractor, only one rear remote. I did not put a top link on, but a side link. (see pic) The main reason I guess is that with a ROBB, you set the top link and you're done, not like the std box blade where the tilting forward and back is a constant thing and I got by fine without one using the LPGS.

 

[ovrszd]

Brian, I agree. I hestitate to state such here because repliers will take turns piling on...... The hydraulic side link for me is more valuable than the hydraulic top link.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I agree. I hestitate to state such here because repliers will take turns piling on...... The hydraulic side link for me is more valuable than the hydraulic top link.

So many variables that without knowing what implements are getting used, what the terrain is like, what machine-s will be used, what exactly is trying to be accomplished. There really is no right or wrong answer without knowing ALL the variables.

 

[ovrszd]

So many variables that without knowing what implements are getting used, what the terrain is like, what machine-s will be used, what exactly is trying to be accomplished. There really is no right or wrong answer without knowing ALL the variables.

I agree. I also agree about the blade adjustments. I can use my hydraulic side link to get blade tilt. I think I'll start with a beam swing, then angle. Sound good??

 

[/pine]

FWIW...I also use my side link constantly with all three of my current road work implements (BB, RB, rake)...it makes all the difference in the world IMO...!

Also FWIW..., my homemade side link ($40 e-bay cylinder and the ends from a thread stripped adjustable link) only has a max. travel of about 3.5"...so even with the 3ph arms level with the tilt cylinder set at half it's travel length...I have never needed more pitch either way...I did buy a new manually adjustable side link prior to adding the cylinder and it is on the left side...I have never needed the additional pitch adjustment...

one more thing...when I added rear hydraulics I plumbed three sets of remotes and wish I would have made it four...my old MF (very HD) rear blade originally had a threaded rod crank to adjust the pitch of the blade...the crank had been cut off because it hit the back of the seat of the tractor the guy I got it from had...I replaced the the rod with a cylinder that with my top link I can practically "curl" my scrape blade...but I would like to add another cylinder that would raise/lower a ripper tooth mounted to the main boom of the blade and to do it I would need a 4th set of remotes...the moral is..."the more the better"...

 

[powerscol]

Dang you Folks All this place does is cost me MONEY !!!!!!!! :cool2::cool2::thumbsup:

Brian I will be in touch in a few days :licking:......need to balance the end of the month books :drink:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree. I also agree about the blade adjustments. I can use my hydraulic side link to get blade tilt. I think I'll start with a beam swing, then angle. Sound good??

Richard, without knowing your needs, I personally would go with blade angle, then the offset. Is this something that you plan on starting soon?

Can you post a picture of the blade, or at least what model it is?

 

[ovrszd]

Good points Pine!!!! One more point, when I added the hydraulic side link, I moved my right side manual adjustable side link to the left side. So now I can change the amount of adjustment the hydraulic side link has by manually shortening or lengthening the manual left side link.