hydrolic top link

   / hydrolic top link
  • Thread Starter
#11  
thanks for all the response im not using a box blade just the ease of changing out tiller,planter and disc as whell as
other 3pt equip
 
   / hydrolic top link #12  
thanks for all the response im not using a box blade just the ease of changing out tiller,planter and disc as whell as
other 3pt equip

Yep, I understand that. Sure helps with those tasks.

Myself, I'm pretty lazy. That's why I like a Quick Hitch. :)
 
   / hydrolic top link #13  
The hyd top link makes the quick hitch work even better. Extend the link outward with the quick attach plate. Hook the top link (but not fully) to the implement. Lift and pull in the plate. The implement aligns itself. Then lift and engage the locks. Done!

Cons, It ties up a remote.
 
   / hydrolic top link #14  
I added a hydraulic top link to my previous tractors box blade and it was amazing how nice it was. Certainly worth it IMO. My current tractor had top n tilt from the factory and I find it useful as well. I'd highly recommend the kits sold by a fellow member. Made specifically for your machine they are hard to beat.
 
   / hydrolic top link #15  
A hydraulic top link and a quick hitch are the best options I put on my tractor. I bought the quick hitch on sale ($200) and made my own top link. I had a hydraulic cylinder with a broken shaft. I got a new shaft made and cut the cylinder barrel shorter with my chop saw. The bolts holding the cylinder together were shortened and retreaded. Then I welded three point hitch top link ends onto the cylinder and I was in business. Total cost for the cylinder was about $100.

Cons, It ties up a remote.

So to get around this "problem" I had a hydraulic spliter laying around so I plumbed it into my rear outlets. One way runs the outlets and the other runs the top link. I had hoses made up at my local NAPA so I could hook it all up.

The whole project, top link and quick hitch was about $450. I didn't have to pay for a hydraulic cylinder and the spliter so I saved some money there. It was worth it though.
 
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   / hydrolic top link #16  
Depends on what implement you are using it with. I think the most use of the top link while actually using an implement would be with a box blade. Besides making it easier to hitch to the implement, once you are using your box blade you can at a touch of your finger tips adjust how the box cuts either by shortening or lengthening the top link.

Shorter equals more aggressive cutting and lengthening would put the rear cutting edge down for smoothing purposes or the exact opposite if you are grading in reverse which typically is not a good idea if done aggressively. Same applies to other implements as well, but a box blade is the most common that I can think of.

Take a look at this link, it explains how to determine what working length will work best for your application.

Good luck. ;)

I don't know Brian, there you go again.:D

To the OP - this is my next investment for my tractor. Looking back there were many times I wished I had it, especially with my sickle mower to get the cutter bar pitch correct for the crop I was in. I now have a drum mower that will need the same fine tuning as I cut.

When I order it will be through Brian with Fit Rite Hydraulics. He set me up with a system to run rear remotes to the front of my tractor (search my user name), excellent quality, service, and he stands behind his work.

Keith
 
   / hydrolic top link #17  
I don't know Brian, there you go again.:D

To the OP - this is my next investment for my tractor. Looking back there were many times I wished I had it, especially with my sickle mower to get the cutter bar pitch correct for the crop I was in. I now have a drum mower that will need the same fine tuning as I cut.

When I order it will be through Brian with Fit Rite Hydraulics. He set me up with a system to run rear remotes to the front of my tractor (search my user name), excellent quality, service, and he stands behind his work.

Keith


Keith, just an FYI, lead times for cylinders typically run about 8 weeks. I can only make them so fast and those are my big sellers. :thumbsup:
 
   / hydrolic top link #18  
Now you tell me :) - do you have a kit (dimensions) for my CT 235? Email if you do. Ill get with you soon.
 
   / hydrolic top link #19  
I love my TnT.

Downsides:
Cost
More hoses & junk back there in the way

Upside:
With a quick hitch I don't have to get off the tractor & can hitch up to really crookedly parked equipment
I love float on the toplink for mowing
Makes it easy to lift the mower higher for maneuverability
Makes it easy to swing a rotary cutter out over a ditch with the back wheel unsupported or what not
Makes box blade work easy & smooth. With the jerky 3pt on the L3200, I can get a perfectly smooth transition just slightly tweaking the toplink

I'll never own another tractor without at least a toplink if not full TnT setup.
 
   / hydrolic top link #20  
I love my TnT.

Downsides:
Cost
More hoses & junk back there in the way

Upside:
With a quick hitch I don't have to get off the tractor & can hitch up to really crookedly parked equipment
I love float on the toplink for mowing
Makes it easy to lift the mower higher for maneuverability
Makes it easy to swing a rotary cutter out over a ditch with the back wheel unsupported or what not
Makes box blade work easy & smooth. With the jerky 3pt on the L3200, I can get a perfectly smooth transition just slightly tweaking the toplink

I'll never own another tractor without at least a toplink if not full TnT setup.

Well stated.

If you can only afford one, start with the top link. Then you'll want the side link even more.

I firmly believe a tractor that is purchased to do 3pt work needs triple rear hydraulics.
 
 

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