hydrolic top link

[npalen]

I believe that a spool type valve that doesn't leak some is an anomaly The only thing that stops any leakage is a "perfect" fit between the steel spool and cast iron or aluminum valve body bore as there are no other internal seals. The problem is that heat expansion affects these materials to a different degree so almost impossible to maintain that "perfect" fit as things heat up. We're talkin' microns on the diameter.
I'm under the impression that most of the newer high end tractors use solenoid or servo operated valves along with soft seat poppets to achieve zero leakage.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I notice most of the drop when I am driving with it elevated. Or if I leave it with tension on it with the tractor off. Normally when I'm using the bush hog there's not much tension on it so I don't notice much of a problem then but there is still some drift. I have a backhoe that I run off of my remotes as well and it will also drift down about the same amount. I'm assuming it's my valves not the cylinder.

Yes, typically it is the valve that leaks. So a question, just how much of a bother is it when you are using an implement, your mower, whatever? I ask because for me, even with how bad my small tractor, rear remote leaks down, it does not affect my working, I'm sure that is why I have not messed with fixing the problem, in reality, so far anyway, it is not a problem worth worrying about.

I'm not trying to say that this is not a problem, it can be a HUGE CONCERN. I have had customers that could not go even a few hundred feet without things getting out of adjustment so bad that work simply could no be accomplished, what is sad is this has been on brand new $35,000 tractors with factory remotes.:shocked:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I believe that a spool type valve that doesn't leak some is an anomaly The only thing that stops any leakage is a "perfect" fit between the steel spool and cast iron or aluminum valve body bore as there are no other internal seals. The problem is that heat expansion affects these materials to a different degree so almost impossible to maintain that "perfect" fit as things heat up. We're talkin' microns on the diameter.
I'm under the impression that most of the newer high end tractors use solenoid or servo operated valves along with soft seat poppets to achieve zero leakage.

You are correct, all these spool valves leak, some. It's that some that is the secret. I get asked all the time, why are your valves so much more than so & so's?

My valves are typically anywhere from 2-4 times what people can buy off the internet. I hardly make anything on my valves, so it is not my mark-up. They cost more, because they are simply built with much tighter tolerances than so many of the low cost units that are out there. If the valves that I sell leaked like most of the ones that so many people buy, I simply would not sell them, not worth the trouble.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I didn't know that float wasn't available with check valves. Since I have trailing wheels on my Rake, float is nice to have. And one less function to have to adjust.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I didn't know that float wasn't available with check valves. Since I have trailing wheels on my Rake, float is nice to have. And one less function to have to adjust.

The check valves take X amount of pressure from the valve to open. Put the valve in float mode, no pressure. The check valve stays closed and the cylinder is locked in position. Thus check valves equal no float function with said cylinder.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Would it be too much to ask to have valves on the cylinder to enable/disable the check valves?

 

[TomSeller]

Would it be too much to ask to have valves on the cylinder to enable/disable the check valves?

You might find that option or you could plumb them up yourself.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Would it be too much to ask to have valves on the cylinder to enable/disable the check valves?

You can do all kinds of things, how bulky do you want it, how much money do you want to spend?

 

[Industrial Toys]

I once made the mistake of putting a valve from one side of the cylinder to the other, as a float, not realizing the differences in volume.

But it makes me wonder. If one has a mediocre top link cylinder, maybe it would have worked better the other way around, depending on whether your more demanding work requires pushing or pulling on the top link.

 

[powerscol]

Float is very important in some operations. I went to great lengths to get the float on my second remote. It made a huge difference in the operation of my implements as they actually followed the ground, rather than where I last left them. Now I don't have a big operation, but for my hay cutting FLOAT made a difference. Still learning and appreciate any feedback.

BTW I have been around a few years (more than I care to remember), and now more than ever, you pay for what you get, and buyer beware of whom you order from. To me customer service is important. I will pay a bit extra to know the seller is honest. knows what works, and stands behind their equipment. Brian is an example of that. And NO I don't get anything for this comment. He stood by me during one of my Senior Moments :shocked: to make things work. I screwed up in my measurements, and Brian worked with me through my ...... well we have all been there:confused3::ashamed::mur: Not many would do the same.

 

[/pine]

Another advantage of a hydraulic top link is when using a boom pole...it basically eliminates the need for a crank winch, come-a-long, chain hoist etc., etc...IMO a HTL makes a boom pole a much more useful attachment...
I know that many operators with FELs and chain hooks don't bother with a boom pole...but I operate solo most of the time and I can see what I'm doing so much better (no spotter) when lifting and placing loads with a BP...

For instance...loading a large round (25"+) onto the splitter...if I use the thumb grapple on the FEL...I have to get on and off the tractor at least a couple of times because I just can't see...using the boom pole and tongs I can pick up and set the round perfectly on the splitter without leaving the seat...
Using a boom pole a HTL gives an operator the ability to move/center the tip of the boom over a load without moving the tractor i.e., out of the seat if need be...

While I'm harping on boom poles a couple of off topic thoughts...
First...a boom pole is probably one of the easiest 3ph attachments there is to add/remove...
Secondly...since I added a ball hitch to the base of my boom pole it has compounded its usefulness...prior to having the hitch on the BP once I dropped the trailer to load it with the FEL/grapple...I was bob-tailed with no rear counter weight...

BTW...I have nothing against bucket hooks and chain...but they work best with a ground man/spotter etc...

 

[Industrial Toys]

As far as getting what you pay for. Not always. I see too many respectable industrial supply houses selling the same junk you get at Princess Auto or Harbour freight. Just at higher prices.

The boom pole matter has me stumped! Our 3ph jib attached directly to the top link attachment point on the tractor. Not sure how a hydraulic top link could be employed.

 

[tman1020]

Yes, typically it is the valve that leaks. So a question, just how much of a bother is it when you are using an implement, your mower, whatever? I ask because for me, even with how bad my small tractor, rear remote leaks down, it does not affect my working, I'm sure that is why I have not messed with fixing the problem, in reality, so far anyway, it is not a problem worth worrying about. I'm not trying to say that this is not a problem, it can be a HUGE CONCERN. I have had customers that could not go even a few hundred feet without things getting out of adjustment so bad that work simply could no be accomplished, what is sad is this has been on brand new $35,000 tractors with factory remotes.:shocked:

The drift down is not something I can't live with but I can see where it would really bother some. All the same do you have a check valve kit that I could add to the cylinder that I purchased from you?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The drift down is not something I can't live with but I can see where it would really bother some. All the same do you have a check valve kit that I could add to the cylinder that I purchased from you?

Not at this time, it is on the back burner though.

 

[PSDStu]

Not at this time, it is on the back burner though.

I am looking forward to being able to purchase one of your sidelinks when they are available with a check valve!

 

[npalen]

I use a ball valve on the rod end port of the top and tilt cylinders to prevent leakdown. I don't have a cab on the Kubota so it's easy to reach back to them.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]
Get a set of flow restrictors to slow down what you have now. A few dollars and it should get rid of your speed problem.

+1 on this. Brian set me up with flow restrictors for my top 'n tilt, and now sudden movement and jerky over-adjustment is a thing of the past. Amazing difference. Important to match the right orifice sizes for the cylinders.

 

[Fallon]

+1 on this. Brian set me up with flow restrictors for my top 'n tilt, and now sudden movement and jerky over-adjustment is a thing of the past. Amazing difference. Important to match the right orifice sizes for the cylinders.

Same here. My TnT setup from him came with em. I occasionally think of opening em up a hair bigger, but not much if I ever did. I couldn't imagine running em at full speed without restrictors. Slow gives you control & precision.

 

[npalen]

I drilled out the restrictor's I had purchased from Brian. They were originally 1/32" (.031) diameter and drilled them out about .006"/.008" larger and that made quite a bit of difference.