hydrolic top link

[ovrszd]

Why 3? :confused3: The second hydraulic side link is a total waste IMO.

Wow,,,, I almost use my hydraulic side link as much as the top link. If you are using a BB how do you get one side to cut?? I even use it to "level" my brush cutter when cutting road banks.

I said three because with TnT and 2 remotes you have nothing left to run implement hydraulics. My BB has hydraulic scarifiers. I pull a hydraulic lift wheel disc. I pull a hydraulic clamshell scraper. I use a hydraulic angle 3pt snow blade. All which require 3 remotes. Unless you want to disable a function.

 

[ovrszd]

If Richard was talking about rear remotes, then yes 3 at a minimum. I have 4 on my small tractor and 3 on the big one which needs 5. I just sold a system that got the guy 7 sets of rear remotes on the back of his LS. I thought that he was talking about hydraulic cylinders on the 3pt hitch. Some people think that both side links should be hydraulic, I disagree is all. Almost every time, (90%+) a single hydraulic side link that provides an equal amount of angle to each side gets the job done just fine.

Just my :2cents:

Ooppss, should have read forward Brian. Yeah, I was talking about rear remotes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow,,,, I almost use my hydraulic side link as much as the top link. If you are using a BB how do you get one side to cut?? I even use it to "level" my brush cutter when cutting road banks.

I said three because with TnT and 2 remotes you have nothing left to run implement hydraulics. My BB has hydraulic scarifiers. I pull a hydraulic lift wheel disc. I pull a hydraulic clamshell scraper. I use a hydraulic angle 3pt snow blade. All which require 3 remotes. Unless you want to disable a function.

Richard, use varies immensely from person-person. (reads customer-customer) I use my side link more than the top link. When I first got my small tractor, only one rear remote. I did not put a top link on, but a side link. (see pic) The main reason I guess is that with a ROBB, you set the top link and you're done, not like the std box blade where the tilting forward and back is a constant thing and I got by fine without one using the LPGS.

 

[ovrszd]

Brian, I agree. I hestitate to state such here because repliers will take turns piling on...... The hydraulic side link for me is more valuable than the hydraulic top link.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I agree. I hestitate to state such here because repliers will take turns piling on...... The hydraulic side link for me is more valuable than the hydraulic top link.

So many variables that without knowing what implements are getting used, what the terrain is like, what machine-s will be used, what exactly is trying to be accomplished. There really is no right or wrong answer without knowing ALL the variables.

 

[ovrszd]

So many variables that without knowing what implements are getting used, what the terrain is like, what machine-s will be used, what exactly is trying to be accomplished. There really is no right or wrong answer without knowing ALL the variables.

I agree. I also agree about the blade adjustments. I can use my hydraulic side link to get blade tilt. I think I'll start with a beam swing, then angle. Sound good??

 

[/pine]

FWIW...I also use my side link constantly with all three of my current road work implements (BB, RB, rake)...it makes all the difference in the world IMO...!

Also FWIW..., my homemade side link ($40 e-bay cylinder and the ends from a thread stripped adjustable link) only has a max. travel of about 3.5"...so even with the 3ph arms level with the tilt cylinder set at half it's travel length...I have never needed more pitch either way...I did buy a new manually adjustable side link prior to adding the cylinder and it is on the left side...I have never needed the additional pitch adjustment...

one more thing...when I added rear hydraulics I plumbed three sets of remotes and wish I would have made it four...my old MF (very HD) rear blade originally had a threaded rod crank to adjust the pitch of the blade...the crank had been cut off because it hit the back of the seat of the tractor the guy I got it from had...I replaced the the rod with a cylinder that with my top link I can practically "curl" my scrape blade...but I would like to add another cylinder that would raise/lower a ripper tooth mounted to the main boom of the blade and to do it I would need a 4th set of remotes...the moral is..."the more the better"...

 

[powerscol]

Dang you Folks All this place does is cost me MONEY !!!!!!!! :cool2::cool2::thumbsup:

Brian I will be in touch in a few days :licking:......need to balance the end of the month books :drink:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree. I also agree about the blade adjustments. I can use my hydraulic side link to get blade tilt. I think I'll start with a beam swing, then angle. Sound good??

Richard, without knowing your needs, I personally would go with blade angle, then the offset. Is this something that you plan on starting soon?

Can you post a picture of the blade, or at least what model it is?

 

[ovrszd]

Good points Pine!!!! One more point, when I added the hydraulic side link, I moved my right side manual adjustable side link to the left side. So now I can change the amount of adjustment the hydraulic side link has by manually shortening or lengthening the manual left side link.