hydrolic top link

[MtnViewRanch]

I can hardly wait to get a customers pictures of his 7 rear remote system that we did. Hopefully next week. It's a little over kill, I would have only had 5 myself, but what can you say, the customer is always right.

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, without knowing your needs, I personally would go with blade angle, then the offset. Is this something that you plan on starting soon?

Can you post a picture of the blade, or at least what model it is?

I just move the tractor and blade to my shop from the farm this morning. It's my next project. But I'm having back surgery next Wednesday so don't know how fast I'll get to it. I'll start a thread when I do.

I dug thru my pics and don't have anything of the blade. It's a Servis (Big Rhino) blade, model # HD3WM. Has manually adjustable beam swing, angle, tilt. With my TnT consuming 2 of my 3 remotes I need to be critical about what I add to the blade. I'll still have to unplug a remote to add duals to the blade.

 

[TomSeller]

I found a con once. On a tightly coupled boom flail mower with a short PTO shaft, extending the top link resulted in the PTO shaft extending and coming apart and flailing around. Not good. Fortunately I stomped on the clutch real quick. I now use a fixed top link when using that boom mower.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just move the tractor and blade to my shop from the farm this morning. It's my next project. But I'm having back surgery next Wednesday so don't know how fast I'll get to it. I'll start a thread when I do.

I dug thru my pics and don't have anything of the blade. It's a Servis (Big Rhino) blade, model # HD3WM. Has manually adjustable beam swing, angle, tilt. With my TnT consuming 2 of my 3 remotes I need to be critical about what I add to the blade. I'll still have to unplug a remote to add duals to the blade.

Depending on your conditions, (does your hitch raise the blade high enough that you don't need to use the top link?)but I would say set the top link and unplug it. Then when you get around to it, a couple of electric diverters and you'll be set. 5 sets of RR is all you need.

 

[tman1020]

I did also think of a negative. The hydraulic link will drift down when under a load. It requires a adjust once in a while depending how much weight is on it and will drift down overnight if left with a load on it. It's not a big deal but nonetheless a negative. This is one of the main reasons I don't use hydraulic tilt. It's mostly flat around here and don't find many times I need to adjust tilt for my work either. I like tilt to stay where I put it.

 

[DK35vince]

I did also think of a negative. The hydraulic link will drift down when under a load. It requires a adjust once in a while depending how much weight is on it and will drift down overnight if left with a load on it. It's not a big deal but nonetheless a negative. This is one of the main reasons I don't use hydraulic tilt. It's mostly flat around here and don't find many times I need to adjust tilt for my work either. I like tilt to stay where I put it.

Mine originally did that.
I replaced the top and tilt cylinders with cylinders that have the check valves. They never drift, they stay where I put them.

 

[tman1020]

Mine originally did that. I replaced the top and tilt cylinders with cylinders that have the check valves. They never drift, they stay where I put them.

Interesting. Thank you. That would be nice.

 

[Eric102]

Mine originally did that.
I replaced the top and tilt cylinders with cylinders that have the check valves. They never drift, they stay where I put them.

Can you still use the float function with check valves?

 

[DK35vince]

Can you still use the float function with check valves?

No, I don't believe so.
My valves don't have the float function anyway, so it's a non issue for me.

 

[Fallon]

Can you still use the float function with check valves?

Nope. My TnT sags, but I measure things in inches per day. No way in **** I'd give up float, its half the reason I love my TnT setup.

Check valves are just to cover up a poor quality valve or worn out cylinder packings or valve seals IMHO.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Can you still use the float function with check valves?

No. :no: Pros and cons to everything, just the way it is. The secret is to have good control valves that don't leak down, but those are not always available.

 

[DK35vince]

Check valves are just to cover up a poor quality valve or worn out cylinder packings or valve seals IMHO.

Mine top and tilt cylinders with check valves have stayed exactly where I've set mine with 0 drift every time for the past 14 years. So that's a pretty adequate cover up IMO.

 

[ovrszd]

Mine cylinders with check valves have stayed exactly where I've set mine with 0 drift every time for the past 14 years. So that's a pretty adequate cover up IMO.

I would agree. There are lot's more systems that leak down than ones that don't.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Nope. My TnT sags, but I measure things in inches per day. No way in **** I'd give up float, its half the reason I love my TnT setup.

Check valves are just to cover up a poor quality valve or worn out cylinder packings or valve seals IMHO.

As a guess, how much does the top link and the side link extend in an hours time and with what implement? Just a guess.

 

[tman1020]

With a 5 foot king kutter bushog on it is definitely more than an inch an hour. I would guess more than two but less than three.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would agree. There are lot's more systems that leak down than ones that don't.

While this is for sure true, a couple of things. At what rate do they leak? And anyone that complains of the leak down, do they have the float function and ever used it?

My experience has been that anyone that has actually made use of the benefits of having the float function would NEVER have a system without that capability again. Sort of like having top & tilt, once you have used it, most people would not be without it. :thumbsup:

Both of my tractors with 3pt hitches have the float capability with all of the rear remote valves. My 75hp tractor with the factory OEM valves leaks down at a rate of 5/32" per hour on the side link with a 1000lb implement. Top link does not move. My 32 HP tractor currently leaks down at a rate in excess or 1" per hour with an 800lb implement. It did not use to, but currently does. Even at that rate, it does not affect me grading and that is what I do mainly. Now I'm sure that it does not leak at that rate when the implement is on the ground, because that 800lbs is no longer pulling on it. Probably one of the reasons that I have not looked into getting the problem remedied. :ashamed:

My acceptable leak down rate is 1/4" at the rod per hour. More than that and something should be looked at. I understand that people have many different needs, and some have zero need to have the float function, for those people the DPOCV is the way to go. But for those people that make use of a float function feature, the check valves are not an option.

I personally would not be without the float function valves, but that is me, not everyone else. Everyone has a choice, like I say, pros and cons to just about everything.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

With a 5 foot king kutter bushog on it is definitely more than an inch an hour. I would guess more than two but less than three.

This is while you are using it, or just hanging in the air stationary?

 

[Industrial Toys]

I built mine with a good quality cylinder although maybe too small. It tends to go in quite unexpectedly if you switch from the implement (a heavy Harley rake) hanging on it, to pushing on it. This drives me nuts and if I buy a good one (hyd top link) , I don't know if the check valves are required or not.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I built mine with a good quality cylinder although maybe too small. It tends to go in quite unexpectedly if you switch from the implement (a heavy Harley rake) hanging on it, to pushing on it. This drives me nuts and if I buy a good one (hyd top link) , I don't know if the check valves are required or not.

If you don't make use of a float function feature, might as well get one with the check valves like this.

Get a set of flow restrictors to slow down what you have now. A few dollars and it should get rid of your speed problem.

 

[tman1020]

This is while you are using it, or just hanging in the air stationary?

I notice most of the drop when I am driving with it elevated. Or if I leave it with tension on it with the tractor off. Normally when I'm using the bush hog there's not much tension on it so I don't notice much of a problem then but there is still some drift. I have a backhoe that I run off of my remotes as well and it will also drift down about the same amount. I'm assuming it's my valves not the cylinder.