I finally got a Yanmar (YM2001)

[clemsonfor]

I seat stubborn beads using a ~2-1/2" wide heavy-duty (10k# rated?) ratchet load strap wrapped around the center of the tread ... crank it down, squash the center of the tread, the bead spreads to contact the (lubed) rim all around, remove the valve-stem core, use a standard 30-gallon compressor with clamp-on valve-chuck to seat it from a distance. Deflate and remove the strap.

Lotsa uses for that ratchet-strap between the rare tire-changes

Hey duane - nice looking tractor (and tires/wheels)! Congrats!

Yep that way works, but if you know about starting fluid method I'm sure you know of this one.

 

[clemsonfor]

My lights have never worked, so I have a plan to repair the wiring and change a few things around. I feel that turn signals are not needed so I will be changing them to hazard lights. I have already removed my broken turn signal switch and 3D printed an adapter for a pull style switch.

I also plan on 3D printing a headlight shroud for holding a set of flush mount LED lights. The preview of it is below. I still have to split it into 3 pieces so that I can fit it on my 3D printer.

I am also installing an LED work light for the rear.

You can just move one of your wires from one side of the switch to the other. And what you turn it that way both lights will come on. I made a post about it as other long time members like Norm have before me (which I didn't know about at the time I did mine).

 

[duanew1]

I seat stubborn beads using a ~2-1/2" wide heavy-duty (10k# rated?) ratchet load strap wrapped around the center of the tread ... crank it down, squash the center of the tread, the bead spreads to contact the (lubed) rim all around, remove the valve-stem core, use a standard 30-gallon compressor with clamp-on valve-chuck to seat it from a distance. Deflate and remove the strap.

Lotsa uses for that ratchet-strap between the rare tire-changes

Hey duane - nice looking tractor (and tires/wheels)! Congrats!

I tried that method as well. It works great for car tires but does not work well for these turf tires. The tires compress and buckle without pushing the bead against the rim. I think one of the main problems is that the rims do not have a good lead in on one side like most car rims do. That lead in is usually used to help hold one bead while you pull the tire the other direction to seal against the other bead.

And thank you.

 

[duanew1]

You can just move one of your wires from one side of the switch to the other. And what you turn it that way both lights will come on. I made a post about it as other long time members like Norm have before me (which I didn't know about at the time I did mine).

My switch was locked up solid. I could not turn the switch or the nut on top to remove it. It was this way since I got it. I had to cut it up in pieces in order to remove it from the dash. Therefore I had to get something else to replace it.

 

[TX mower]

My switch was locked up solid. I could not turn the switch or the nut on top to remove it. ..... I had to cut it up in pieces in order to remove it from the dash.

Lol, I found and did the exact same thing on my 336D after 30 years of never touching that switch / using those lights for anything.

Gotchya on the tire swap but you got there so that's all that matters, good on you.

Must admit I like the yellow wheels you found, mine's gonna be sporting that combination soon - yellow is my default 'personal fleet' color but I'm (barely) resisting the urge to shoot the whole tractor yellow, so 2-tone red/yellow it will be.

 

[duanew1]

Must admit I like the yellow wheels you found, mine's gonna be sporting that combination soon - yellow is my default 'personal fleet' color but I'm (barely) resisting the urge to shoot the whole tractor yellow, so 2-tone red/yellow it will be.

I am not sure that I am sold on the yellow wheels. I will probably keep them yellow because I do not feel like painting them. I was told that they are Yanmar wheels so I am pretty sure they are Cub Cadet Yanmar wheels.

 

[duanew1]

How do you guys keep the shifter boots from cracking? My first set of replacements lasted 6 months before they had cracks and allowed moisture into the transmission. I have been putting Aerospace 303 protectant on the second set, and it has been helping, but there are still cracks forming after a year. These are not stored in the sun.

I do have my tractor covered, but it is more of a lean-to so moisture can blow in in strong winds.

I have an idea that I am working on using some of my 3D printing skills and will show it in a bit.

 

[California]

How do you guys keep the shifter boots from cracking? My first set of replacements lasted 6 months

That sounds unusual. Buy better boots.

I think I put a fresh one on when I bought and renovated the YM240 in 2003. I'm pretty sure I haven't replaced it since. It's still good.

 

[kenmac]

in the 13 yrs I have owned my tractor. I have never replaced the shifter boot

 

[duanew1]

That sounds unusual. Buy better boots.

I think I put a fresh one on when I bought and renovated the YM240 in 2003. I'm pretty sure I haven't replaced it since. It's still good.

The first set I got from hoye. The second set I got off eBay I believe.