I have a bad feeling about this

   / I have a bad feeling about this #31  
I've called a place and waiting a call back. It's a holiday here in Canada so I'm not expecting a call back until tomorrow.

I'm not equipped to handle 300lb loaded tires on a 4,000lb tractor so I'll live it to professionals.
Most ag and industrial tire outfits are on call 24/7/365. It usually just costs more to have them out at night, holidays, ect.


As to why they are leaking sooner, if your tires don't have tubes (check the valve stems) that would be a reason. If they've had a puncture and the rims weren't washed before remounting or if they were reassembled with calcium left between tire and tube, ect. Variety of reasons.

A set of tires and rims for a tractor as small as yours are not going to be that big of a bill, these things happen, it's just part of owning equipment. I've had repair bills of more than a machine cost in the first week.
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #32  

[SIZE=3]deereman75[/SIZE] GAVE THE BEST RESPONSE. iF YOU HAVE TUBES $ CHLORIDE IS LEAKING, GET THE TUBE REPAIRED RIGHT AWAY. Rims RUST OUT WHEN THE OWNER WAITS TO GET IT REPAIRED. MOST OF MY TRACTORS HAVE CHLORIDE. MY jd2030 IS TUBELESS & THE RIMS HAVEN'T RUSTED.

 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #33  
Then why are mine leaking after just 11 years?
Oxygen is necessary for the corrosion. Tires squirm enough to allow some in at the bead and the CaCl is right there too. Insignificant seeming, but the smallest intermix reacts to make itself worse. Thats why the sealer, which would have been good to include in the original fill, is still a well directed approach. It addresses the problem at its root.
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #34  
For what it's worth, most reputable tire service outfits will not put calcium in without tubes. It's just bad practice. "Tubeless" tires are still perfectly capable of having tubes installed.
Properly installed and maintained there is really no drawback to calcium. Combine that with being cheaper and heavier than anything else, and it explains why none of the alternatives ever really caught on.

Rimguard and such may be fine for those of you down south, but tires don't tend to work well when 3/4 full of ice.... That's the biggest reason it will never replace calcium
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #35  
Rimguard and such may be fine for those of you down south, but tires don't tend to work well when 3/4 full of ice.... That's the biggest reason it will never replace calcium

According to the chart on this web site beet juice and calcium chloride are both good to -35° F.
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #36  
According to the chart on this web site beet juice and calcium chloride are both good to -35° F.
Calcium chloride can resist freezing as low as -62f

Again not a consideration everywhere, but in a place like Saskatchewan where -50F isn't unheard of, freezing at -35 is a bit of an issue
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #37  
You can drain the fluid out of the wheels into buckets. Just get plastic tubing that fits tight over the valve stem and a valve core removal tool to remove the valve stem. Try to put the tractor above the bucket - you may get several bucket fills per wheel so need to have a place to store or dump it - large plastic garbage can will work to hold it. I dumped min on weeds. A year later the weeds are back.

You can take the wheel to a tire shop - google your are for places that deal with tractor tires or truck tires. Or you can check youtube how to remove it yourself - you want to have good long tire irons and it is a PIA but doable if you have a bit of muscle or leverage (And a friend).

Once the tires are off, check the rim for rust - brush loose rust off and use rust restorer to turn the remaining thin layer of rust black. May need a couple applications. Then use good metal paint.

While you may be able to go tubeless, I recommend using tubes once you have the wheels off. They cost a little bit but provide isolation of any fluid from the rim. You can have the wheel shop order inner tubes or get them online. WalMart sells them if you can't find them cheaper elsewhere.

You can re-use the Calcuim Chloride in tubes but the valve stems will corrode after a few years and start a slow leak you may not notice until the rim is rusted through. You have to watch for leaks and get the valve replace regularly or replace the inner tube. If the stuff leaks on your rim you could get significant corrosion. I got a 2 inch hole and very rusty rim. Yes, you can have it welded ... or buy a new rim like I did. 2 part rim so only $125 US for the . :) After the 2nd rim in 25 years I decided to get rid of the CaCL and find other options, for now, nothing in the tires. My implements are heavy enough for my 8N and the old tractor is happier going up hill.

When you have the shop remount the tires on the rims (with inner tube?) don't have them fill it. Lots of youtube videos on how to fill the tire yourself... What works for your area depends on freezing points. In some areas tire shops will send someone to your place, but in urban areas that can be hard to find. You just have to have patience to do it yourself.

Not filling your tires can give a better ride if they are "just right" and absorb shock but metal weights can be expensive. You can get inventive and make your own balast to go on the 3 pt hitch.

Of course if you have a truck you can rent a trailer and take the tractor to the shop and have them do it all ... much easier.
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #38  
Personally I'd shoot the dog that's p*ssing on your tractor tires and giving you such a fright :)
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this
  • Thread Starter
#39  
You can drain the fluid out of the wheels into buckets. Just get plastic tubing that fits tight over the valve stem and a valve core removal tool to remove the valve stem. Try to put the tractor above the bucket - you may get several bucket fills per wheel so need to have a place to store or dump it - large plastic garbage can will work to hold it. I dumped min on weeds. A year later the weeds are back.

You can take the wheel to a tire shop - google your are for places that deal with tractor tires or truck tires. Or you can check youtube how to remove it yourself - you want to have good long tire irons and it is a PIA but doable if you have a bit of muscle or leverage (And a friend).

Once the tires are off, check the rim for rust - brush loose rust off and use rust restorer to turn the remaining thin layer of rust black. May need a couple applications. Then use good metal paint.

While you may be able to go tubeless, I recommend using tubes once you have the wheels off. They cost a little bit but provide isolation of any fluid from the rim. You can have the wheel shop order inner tubes or get them online. WalMart sells them if you can't find them cheaper elsewhere.

You can re-use the Calcuim Chloride in tubes but the valve stems will corrode after a few years and start a slow leak you may not notice until the rim is rusted through. You have to watch for leaks and get the valve replace regularly or replace the inner tube. If the stuff leaks on your rim you could get significant corrosion. I got a 2 inch hole and very rusty rim. Yes, you can have it welded ... or buy a new rim like I did. 2 part rim so only $125 US for the . :) After the 2nd rim in 25 years I decided to get rid of the CaCL and find other options, for now, nothing in the tires. My implements are heavy enough for my 8N and the old tractor is happier going up hill.

When you have the shop remount the tires on the rims (with inner tube?) don't have them fill it. Lots of youtube videos on how to fill the tire yourself... What works for your area depends on freezing points. In some areas tire shops will send someone to your place, but in urban areas that can be hard to find. You just have to have patience to do it yourself.

Not filling your tires can give a better ride if they are "just right" and absorb shock but metal weights can be expensive. You can get inventive and make your own balast to go on the 3 pt hitch.

Of course if you have a truck you can rent a trailer and take the tractor to the shop and have them do it all ... much easier.

Thanks. Lots to ponder about. Snow removal season is upon us. I don't want to have the tractor unusable and working in the cold is a PITA.
Personally I'd shoot the dog that's p*ssing on your tractor tires and giving you such a fright :)

Wish it was that simple lol
 
   / I have a bad feeling about this #40  
Thanks. Lots to ponder about. Snow removal season is upon us. I don't want to have the tractor unusable and working in the cold is a PITA.


Wish it was that simple lol
Take the calcium out and replace with cast wheel weights or a 3 point weight box.
 
 
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