Tractor Sizing I have no clue...I need help!

[MossRoad]

And that's one of the problems with short implements on the FEL of a conventional tractor.... you can't see where to place them sometimes because you're view is blocked by the hood of the tractor.

 

[bcp]

And if you stand up to look, then try to move the tractor, it dies.

I wish you could at least "creep" the tractor when off the seat.

Bruce

 

[joefromga]

And if you stand up to look, then try to move the tractor, it dies.

I wish you could at least "creep" the tractor when off the seat.

Bruce

You can always incorporate a wrist attached "boat-style" kill switch that bypasses the seat safety.

It could even be belt clipped or something so that it would activate if you got off (or was thrown) but would allow you to stand and move.

A coil cord with a short circuit on one end and clip on the other wired into your seat safety would be easy. It would also be a sneaky kill switch that only you could use to start and drive the tractor.

 

[redman135]

Hello getbusyorgetfat, re post #60. Have a look at different fel's from the drivers's seat as some give much better visibility than others.
A point that no-one has mentioned is that most tractor rims are adjustable and as you have some hilly areas you should look at setting your wheels to their widest track for stability as scuts are very "tippy" due to their narrow track. Or you could use dual wheels. I did, and the extra stability is amazing, you have way more confidence.
I reccomend hydrostatic gearbox as this very forgiving of mistakes, and easy to learn compared to a manual gearbox.
Lastly READ THE MANUAL. Most people don't and make expensive (break something) mistakes.

 

[jeff9366]

The biggest downside I see to the fel attachment route is what appears to be less visability.

Most of the time you can maneuver the highly articulated FEL bucket so you see where you are placing teeth of the digging tooth bar. With greater experience you will instinctively 'feel' where the teeth are without teeth being in your line of sight.

As I reviewed your thread all the way through, I note that three or four respondents recommended a tractor in the Kubota MX size and weight class. Safety is so important. Tractors in this size, whatever the brand, are much more stable than subcompacts. Also, you are intending some hard work. The heavy steel components in 3,000+ pound tractors (tractor only) will hold up.

Subcompact tractors are fine, but not for "five gallon bucket" size rocks and busting wilderness moguls.

An MX size tractor is probably as large as you will be able to manage for your introduction to tractor operation. It will seem huge at first but shrink pretty fast.

Start a new T-B-N thread when you are ready to select options for whatever tractor you decide on.

Good luck.

 

[gladehound]

I agree that HST is easiest for new operators. However, there are some advantages to a hydraulic reverser (gasp ). They are mostly related to control position. One advantage is you can stand and operate forward, neutral and reverse with both feet firmly on the deck for better FEL visibility (my tractor never had one of those seat switches so many talk about). Second, for 3pt implements you can sit completely side saddle because your feet don't need to be near any controls. For snow blowing in revers, I can sit on the hood or stand facing backwards.

HST has several advantages too but I'll let the HST fans handle those as I would not do them justice.

 

[gladehound]

Btw - I dig often with forks or stump bucket and visibility is great if I lean to the side (look around the engine) or stand to look over it. As others mentioned, you need to sit on tractors and see what works for you.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with the larger tractor using forks and/or stump bucket. Something else that hasn't been mentioned for a trail in the woods, move the road. If I had a large boulder in the way that I couldn't dig up I would go around it. Plan your trails for the easiest route thru the trees.

A subcut is too small for your uses, buy a bigger tractor and add implements over time.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I think bucket/grapple lip visibility varries considerably from tractor to tractor and person to person. So sit and see!

So:
An MX size might be perfect and where you end up but I completely understand not being able to justify that expense to yourself and you family. (I couldn't).

But I really think a subcompact will simply not do much of what you want (not just slower) and you may actually break the tractor or yourself in the process.

The largest frame size and especially loader size/capacity in the Kubota B series would probably do a whole lot of what you want without hurting you or itself. I think you'll care more about frame size and loader capacity than HP as long as it's over about 20hp.

Add weight, a quick attach for buckets, and industrial tires and get to work. Put a few hundred hours on it, then sell for 90% of what you paid for it (easy with Kubota/HST conbo arround here), and get your MX size machine if you want/need it.
If you want to look at the smaller L series, make sure the frame size and loader capacities are actually bigger than the largest B (there is some overlap).
All my opinion of course but this it the trajectory I've happily followed.

 

[k0ua]

My little home made Shovel works fine for digging up small to medium sized rocks and general trenching/hole digging. I can make a lot of trench in a hurry with it hooked to my Hydrostatic equipped Kioti 35 horsepower tractor. I can also see it perfectly from the seat, and I don't have one of those "pesky" seat switches either. You can read about its design and construction here if you like.