i need help drilling 1 inch holes
- Thread starter escavader
- Start date
- Views: 12808
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
I've only bought EBAY items from sellers with multiple feedbacks. Figure if they are that public as to do multiple transactions they're probably OK as far as legitimate ownership. Not quite like buying from the trunk of a stranger's car. I'll admit the 2 sellers that stiffed me both had a lot of feedback, one was subsequently banned from EBAY, the other a pawn shop. My daughter worked for a dealer of Jancy Sluggers. They took in trade-ins which they refurbed & sold on EBAY.
You need several factors to drill large hole efficiently in steel that are difficult to achieve with a hand drill:
1. Correct RPM's.
2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.
3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.
4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.
5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.
- Rick
1. Correct RPM's.
2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.
3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.
4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.
5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.
- Rick
scott_vt
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2004
- Messages
- 7,349
- Location
- east wells,vt
- Tractor
- 1986 MF 1040, 1942 Farmall A, 1949 Farmall Super A
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hiya Alan -
Hey, you might want to consider using a 1" hole saw. I've had great luck with the Lenox brand, they really make good stuff. If you use plenty of cutting fluid you just might get twenty holes out of one, and might even be able to resharpen it if you have to.
Good luck, John )</font>
Hi Alan,
John is giving some great advice with recomending a Lenox hole saw!!! For what your trying to do and the equipment you have, thats your best chance of success IMHO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Also as someone else mentioned, get yourself some cutting oil and some acid brushes and constantly apply oil while drilling!!
scotty
Hey, you might want to consider using a 1" hole saw. I've had great luck with the Lenox brand, they really make good stuff. If you use plenty of cutting fluid you just might get twenty holes out of one, and might even be able to resharpen it if you have to.
Good luck, John )</font>
Hi Alan,
John is giving some great advice with recomending a Lenox hole saw!!! For what your trying to do and the equipment you have, thats your best chance of success IMHO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Also as someone else mentioned, get yourself some cutting oil and some acid brushes and constantly apply oil while drilling!!
scotty
OP
escavader
Veteran Member
Turbo 36,
If i send them to you,i wont be able to post it in BUILD IT YOURSELF /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif,We will have to start a new forum called HAVE SOMEONE ELSE BUILD IT /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifThanks to all who have answerd me,but i cant do nothin til them darn belts come.The way the drill was cutting before i broke the drive belt,leads me to believe im gonna be ok.I am gonna pick up some cutting oil,before i start again.
ALAN
If i send them to you,i wont be able to post it in BUILD IT YOURSELF /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif,We will have to start a new forum called HAVE SOMEONE ELSE BUILD IT /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifThanks to all who have answerd me,but i cant do nothin til them darn belts come.The way the drill was cutting before i broke the drive belt,leads me to believe im gonna be ok.I am gonna pick up some cutting oil,before i start again.
ALAN
5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 26,993
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Mr. Baker:
Hope you don't "throw" them on one of your Mazak machining centers, that's hard on the accuracy of the machine. I'm familiar with Mazak Turning centers, not mills. Caterpillar 40 V flange coolant through the center maybe??
Hope you don't "throw" them on one of your Mazak machining centers, that's hard on the accuracy of the machine. I'm familiar with Mazak Turning centers, not mills. Caterpillar 40 V flange coolant through the center maybe??
markct
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2002
- Messages
- 893
- Location
- northfield connecticut
- Tractor
- gradall g3r excavator, kawasaki mule 2500,ford 8000,and a 1936 caterpillar road grader
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You need several factors to drill large hole efficiently in steel that are difficult to achieve with a hand drill:
1. Correct RPM's.
2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.
3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.
4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.
5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.
)</font>
some very good points indeed, just this evening i was opening up some holes to 1.200 inch with a big drill bit in my milwaukee 3/4 drill, no not drill press, hand held drill! after doing about 2 holes i had to take a break from hanging onto and pushing on the drill, luckly it didnt catch on me, i have had that happen before with that drill, but just the force required to hold the drill in place and apply pressure is enough to wear you out fast!! and if it catches then your in a whole nother bunch of pain! stick with your drill press, it will be alot better than hand drilling. only reason i was hand drilling this is that its a forklift carraige weighing a few hundred pounds, so i couldnt lift it up onto the table of the milling machine
1. Correct RPM's.
2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.
3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.
4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.
5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.
)</font>
some very good points indeed, just this evening i was opening up some holes to 1.200 inch with a big drill bit in my milwaukee 3/4 drill, no not drill press, hand held drill! after doing about 2 holes i had to take a break from hanging onto and pushing on the drill, luckly it didnt catch on me, i have had that happen before with that drill, but just the force required to hold the drill in place and apply pressure is enough to wear you out fast!! and if it catches then your in a whole nother bunch of pain! stick with your drill press, it will be alot better than hand drilling. only reason i was hand drilling this is that its a forklift carraige weighing a few hundred pounds, so i couldnt lift it up onto the table of the milling machine
bobodu
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2004
- Messages
- 960
- Location
- Whitley County,In.EIEIO
- Tractor
- Farmnought.Gravely Model L,Gravely Model LI,1941 Clinton two wheeler
Markct..
Can you get a bar clamp on the end of the drill?
Sometimes the layout lets me do this and it's lots easier to control the drill if you're not busy trying to force it down.
Can you get a bar clamp on the end of the drill?
Sometimes the layout lets me do this and it's lots easier to control the drill if you're not busy trying to force it down.
markct
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2002
- Messages
- 893
- Location
- northfield connecticut
- Tractor
- gradall g3r excavator, kawasaki mule 2500,ford 8000,and a 1936 caterpillar road grader
i imagine i could put a clamp on it to put pressure on, but in this case i was just opening up holes so i didnt need too much pressure, had to kinda get just the right amount so it didnt catch and pull in, its mostly a fight too keep it in place more than anything i suppose, it wants to rotate, and even with the pipe handle blocked it will still cause the thing to tilt to the side if ya dont have a firm grip on it. i have a small magnetic base drill press too, but these holes were bigger than what i usualy do with that press, and there was no wheres to stick it down anyhow
CT_Tree_Guy
Platinum Member
<font color="blue">just this evening i was opening up some holes to 1.200 inch with a big drill bit in my milwaukee 3/4 drill, no not drill press, hand held drill! </font>
Nicely done sir, nicely done. Here's to "doin' what you gotta do", and living to tell about it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
John
Nicely done sir, nicely done. Here's to "doin' what you gotta do", and living to tell about it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
John