I need help:

[WayneB]

just a quick note how is it bad, that it took you one day to learn how to operate your chainsaw?

When you do your chainsaw liesence over here its a 5 day course.

As for the tractor issue, what is your price range?

Chain saw license? Darn never heard of that, living in "Live Free or Die New Hampshire" we are sort-of against that kind of thing! Although with so many weekenders using chainsaws around here these days, it might be proper to have a class or two on safety use and sharpening chains if nothing else

As for tractors I would think the Kubota 3030 with cab, front mounted snowblower, FEL, and whatever implements you might desire would do most of your task.

For mowing the lawn around the house and pond I think I would go for a dedicated zero-turn machine just for that type of task

 

[ScottFarm]

I agree with most, your gonna need two machines. I have a Montana 5740 Cab with FEL. (52Hp PTO) I really like it and I feel like I got a good price on a new machine (26K new). I sold my Case 385 which I really liked. Mainly sold it because in one year I had only used it once. I thought I'd keep it around to rake hay with, but after having the cab it was worth 15 minutes to switch impliments to have A/C and the radio. I farm about 75 acres, bush hog the pastures and put up about 300 round bales of hay each year with a Krone 125 baler (4x4 bales). I have about a 3 acre yard. I'd recommend buying a good used zero turn 55" cut mower and buy a larger tractor than your looking at. I'd definatly stay above 50Hp if it were me. I've seen some good deals out there. Below is a similar tractor to mine.

MONTANA 5740C 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com

Good Luck...

Scott

 

[LBrown59]

The heater is very nice but I never imagined I would use the air conditioner, but I did quite a lot this summer. As you said it gives you protection from the nasty biting, and other annoying bugs.

I only do tractor chores morning and evening due to not being able to take the heat.
Air Cond would serve me well .

 

[john_bud]

I agree with most, your gonna need two machines. I have a Montana 5740 Cab with FEL. (52Hp PTO) I really like it and I feel like I got a good price on a new machine (26K new). I sold my Case 385 which I really liked. Mainly sold it because in one year I had only used it once. I thought I'd keep it around to rake hay with, but after having the cab it was worth 15 minutes to switch impliments to have A/C and the radio. I farm about 75 acres, bush hog the pastures and put up about 300 round bales of hay each year with a Krone 125 baler (4x4 bales). I have about a 3 acre yard. I'd recommend buying a good used zero turn 55" cut mower and buy a larger tractor than your looking at. I'd definatly stay above 50Hp if it were me. I've seen some good deals out there. Below is a similar tractor to mine.

MONTANA 5740C 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com

Good Luck...

Scott

That's a nice machine in that link. I know that Montana tractors are not up at the same standard as some, but for the $$ it looks like it would be about perfect for 78 acres and still leave $$ for a lawn mower.

jb

Chainsaw License??? I've been using chain saws for many a year. No way I'd want to be embarrassed by failing the test!

jb

 

[JDeerekid]

That's a nice machine in that link. I know that Montana tractors are not up at the same standard as some, but for the $$ it looks like it would be about perfect for 78 acres and still leave $$ for a lawn mower.

jb

Chainsaw License??? I've been using chain saws for many a year. No way I'd want to be embarrassed by failing the test!

jb

Just curious about what standards you are talking about? I have my montana that if you compare with other makes my tractor has either the same stuff or more to offer at a cheaper price. I dont want to get in a fighting match here just curious why you said what you said.

 

[EdC]

Welcome to TBN! I agree with several of the previous posters about equipment size. One thing to remember though is that size equates to time. You can do a whole lot with a smaller, less expensive tractor, it just takes more time. That time/tractor size balance(money) balance is something only you can determine.

I do think two tractor would serve you better than one. A small lawn tractor for the lawn around the house and a bigger unit for the rougher work. That way you can get a machine that is optimized for the task. For example, my little 2320 does have an option for a mowing deck but we have a small lawn tractor for that because the 2320 is used out in the rough stuff and has loaded tires so:
1. I would be leaving ruts if I mowed the lawn with my loaded R4 tires (and I need R4s or R1s in the fields and woods)
2. I would be taking off the 2320 underbelly mower quite often so I did not beat it to death on the rocks we have around here.

After you do decide on a HP range try out different tractors and see which one fits you the best. I knew jack about diesels and even running a tractor so I went with new. You may have a little more experience and could go gently used.

Good luck and remember we really like pictures.

 

[JDeerekid]

I also agree with most on here that you need 2 machines. Maybe a zero turn or small garden tractor/lawn mower and something in the 35-50hp range.
The larger tractor I would reccommend the R1 tires for field and woods work. Cabs are definately nice buts adds to the cost. The big name tractors are nice but dont forget about the little guys(kioti,massey,montana,tym). They all make quality tractors and most can be had for much less than the big names. I bought my Montana with cab and loader for less than the equalivant big name without a cab and added options that come standard on most montanas.
For your spring, summer, and fall chores I would definately get a loader, 6ft bush hog, 6ft box blade/grader blade, and 6ft tiller.
For snow removal it all depends on how much snow you get. I would at least get a rear blade to start out with and go from there. Rear blades can be bought for little money. Then maybe move up to a front blade, either frame or loader mount and a rear snowblower.

Oh yea the garden cart dont have to be brand specific. Any cart will fit just about any garden tractor.

But with what ever you decide make sure you get a reliable dealer that will take care of you in the future. And always take lots of pictures and post them. We all love pics.

 

[sandman2234]

Find a good used Ag tractor (50hp min)for mowing the acreage, and tell the wife she has to mow the yard the first year, after which you will take over the yard, provided she has purchased the right equipment for that job. Trust me, she will loosen the purse strings after she mows it a time or two. Zero turn is great (so I have been told) but I just did a job yesterday where the ZT mower couldn't handle the banks of the pond, as it kept sliding into the pond as he tried to go around it. That is where a front deck mower comes in handy.
David from jax

 

[FRIZ]

Thank you everybody for the warm welcome and the good advice.

Are you guys telling me that I need multiple equipment? A small one, a big one and a UTV/Truck?eek:

My goal is to be safe, fast & efficient and have fun doing it. So let痴 assume I can convince my wife that we need multiple equipment:

1. Are you guys saying that the Kubota B3030 and/or the John Deere 3220 are too small for me? I am shocked! For small I would consider the John Deere X749 Tractor. But some of you guys are recommending Zero Turn from Exmark and/or John Deere and/or Kubota? Why? Are they faster and more efficient than John Deere X749 Tractor with 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering, which would be great for mowing around the house and pond with all those trees? A salesperson at a John Deere/ Exmark dealership told me that these Zero Turn machines are just for big open & flat lawn area. And not for all those trees and baby hills around the house and pond. Was he mistaken? Did I misunderstand him? I am confused!

2. Should I stay away from a snow blower because of my 800 yards of gravel road? Should I use a plow? I thought that a snow blower would be fast & efficient? Please elaborate.

3. UTV/Truck: Let痴 not go there yet. My wife thinks UTVs are expensive toys. A truck is maybe something else

Please continue educating me.
Thank you.
Regards,
FRIZ

 

[smfcpacfp]

Thank you everybody for the warm welcome and the good advice.

Are you guys telling me that I need multiple equipment?


2. Should I stay away from a snow blower because of my 800 yards of gravel road? Should I use a plow? I thought that a snow blower would be fast & efficient? Please elaborate.


Please continue educating me.
Thank you.
Regards,
FRIZ

Here is my take on point 2...

If you don't have a lot of snow and it comes and melts, I might suggest a plow. We get 15 to 30 feet of snow each year and it rarely get above freezing for 4 1/2 months. I probably have to snow blow 30+ times a season. To me a snowblower makes more sense because I can just throw the snow in the woods. I live in the boonies with no close neighbors. I don't have to worry about where is it all going to go. If I were plowing I would have to make long push lanes and high mountains to store it all until the melt. A plow is going to be much faster than a snowblower at first, and if you have correctly thought your snow piling strategy through, it will always be faster. You didn't say where you live, or how much snow you get and if it stays for the winter.

I have a gravel drive. The gravel is no problem if you start the snowblowing season correctly. As a matter of fact, I don't see the gravel in the winter.

I have a push lawnmower for my small yard. As I said, I think the B3030 would be a real hassle trying to mow around trees and the like, so I think you will need two impliments.