I started my backhoe Root Ripper.

[Gofast]

I have a MF CG 1710 and I would like to be able to remove stumps without digging such I big hole.

I decided to make a root ripper for my backhoe. I went to the steel surplus place on Friday.
I picked up some 1/2" plate not as much as I wanted but enough to get started.
Here is my ruff design before grinding.


It matches my bucket profile pretty closely.

 

[4570Man]

I’d take that bottom tooth off. You don’t want the front to be that blunt.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I got this one, it works darn good. Offering the profile for comparison.

 

[Gofast]

How thick is the plate by where the pins go thought?
I am going to sharpen the front blunt part. I my trim it more but I wanted to try it out then adjust.
Thanks for posting I picture of yours.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I went out and took another picture showing how it is made. The base and ears are 3/8.

 

[Gofast]

Thanks for the picture very helpful.



I refined the tip. I might have made it to sharp. It should give a dose of cutting at this point.
I need to get some 3/8 plate I want to make a quick release to make it quick to switch between the bucket and root rake.

 

[Gofast]

It is a little closer to being done. I just need to make the top brackets.
I found the steel at the surplus place today to finish it up.

I am not sure if I should try to temper it or just try it like it is.

 

[Gofast]

I went out and took another picture showing how it is made. The base and ears are 3/8.

Could you measure the top mounting plates?

 

[Gofast]

I went to drill my holes for the pins and I did not realize the pins are nonstandard size.
I had to order a 30 mm hole saw carbide tipped. It will be here tomorrow.

My quick attach plates are all cut out 3/8" plate the same size as the original bucket brackets.
I hope I have the quick attach laid out where it will work well.

I will tack weld the plates together before I drill so the pins fit well.
I am not set up very well for cutting 1/2" and 3/8" plate so it is taking a while to get these projects done.


I bought four weld on replaceable teeth for the new bucket. They are 156.


While I am waiting on my 30mm hole saw I started on my 16 bucket.
I have the front ½" plate cut out the top sides 3/8" plate and the back plate 3/8" plate.
I will cheat a little and I will use a 3 pipe on the top back so that will give me a good radius there.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Could you measure the top mounting plates?

What measurements do you need? Happy to do it but not sure what you need. Tractor is 5 hours from here, will be there tomorrow though so can measure then.

 

[Gofast]

Strange I tried to edit my post on my phone and it deleted it.


Just the how tall and long the top is and how far down from the top the pin hole is drilled.
It is not a huge deal but looking at backhoe attachments they seem pretty standard.
I would like to make mine similar.
I am not making the top plates for a couple days. But don't make a special trip as I can figure it out with what I have. If you are going, I would use the measurements.
Thanks Pat!
Mark

 

[downsizingnow48]

Not a problem I go back and forth regularly.

Now I had a while to think about this I am not sure you want to use those measurements. I have made a few attachments for my backhoe (Kubota B21) and always copied the OEM bucket ear dimensions exactly. So this ripper is made to fit the B21, also the B76, and a few other machines. But it won't fit anything else. For instance my pins are 25mm, yours are 30mm. Everything else will be different too. What you need for your ripper is to duplicate the ears on your factory bucket. Every dimension matters in my experience.

Pin diameter and center to center spacing.
Inside to inside ear width.
Thickness of ear material.
There are four bushings for the two pins, how much they stick out from the ears is also important.
Distance from top of pin hole to top of ear.
Distance from bottom of pin hole to top of bucket or in this case ripper base.

I made a plywood template to duplicate the bucket ears exactly, then used the template to make the new ears for my DIY attachments.

Anyway if you really do want the measurements for my B21-style ripper, confirm that, I will get it tomorrow.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I am a little confused. If I wanted something different for my hoe, to address roots, I would want something sharp so I can cut them off. I can rip them just as easily with the bucket teeth. What am I missing?

 

[Gofast]

Yes, I would still like them really how tall and how far from the top is the top of the top of the pin hole is what I would like.
I scribbled on the photo above to show the two measurements I was looking for.
The length I was just going to compare my length to what yours was.

I was going to use my quick attach adapter for the rest of the measurements.
That is why I have not made them yet because I need the quick attach adapter done to make sure this will fit it.

I based my quick attach off one that was made for a Kubota loosely anyway.
Lots of cardboard cuts outs so far.

 

[Gofast]

I am a little confused. If I wanted something different for my hoe, to address roots, I would want something sharp so I can cut them off. I can rip them just as easily with the bucket teeth. What am I missing?

That is my theory to cut off the roots and get the stump out without a big hole. But I never used any type of backhoe root implement before.
We will see how this design works.

 

[the old grind]

I am a little confused. If I wanted something different for my hoe, to address roots, I would want something sharp so I can cut them off. I can rip them just as easily with the bucket teeth. What am I missing?

Just that all too often the other teeth get in the way. Much depends on digging/curl power, etc. Sometimes a tooth clears around roots better to allow recip saw w/pruner blade to cut the most stubborn roots on stumps you won't grind and don't want huge craters dug either.

Case by case, but the QC feature the OP is going for is BIG. Takes me 15-30 min to swap my bucket & tooth either way. Excess toothage can be trimmed off easier than added on. The sharp edge can be touched up if worn, and is another worthy feature. Nice design too, IMO.

 

[downsizingnow48]

The ripper I have works MUCH better than a bucket. Push it down into the ground, curl up under the root. It will break or lift out most the time. No digging, no bucket bouncing off the root, no huge hole in the ground. If the root is too thick, work outward a bit. Either way it is a big improvement over a bucket.

The ripper also works extremely well on demolition. The previous property owner put up ugly sheds everywhere. I can munch a shed to pieces in no time with the ripper and hydraulic thumb combined.

When I just had the bucket, I used to swap implements by changing the two pins all the time. But after adding the hydraulic thumb, which shares a pin with the bucket, that became too laborious. So I also went to a QC. It makes life a LOT easier.

 

[Gofast]

I needed to be able to cut steel straight. I made a hand band saw stand. It will allow me to use it like a chop saw or vertical standing saw.
I have a drill vice to add to it and I bought a foot switch. I need to add an aluminum plate when it is in the vertical mode.

I know there are versions of this on web this is just my take on it.

 

[downsizingnow48]

More measurements on ripper. Sorry for delay.

The distance from top of pin hole to top of ear is 5/8"
The length of base plate is 6"

 

[Gofast]

Thanks for the measurements! I am just to the point to make the top part of the ripper.

The quick connect is done. I have to say it was a lot of time making this I am glad it is done.




Does anyone know where I can get some bucket pins for my quick connect, they need to be 30 mm or 1 3/16.
the factor pin is 127mm or 5" so it would need to be 5.5" with pin on the end.
They do not need to be greasable because they are on on the QC and don not move.