I Still Hate My Tractor

[buickanddeere]

I've had three Kubotas and all three said to do that when cold starting. I shudder at the thought. A cold engine should always be started at idle and allowed to idle for several seconds or a minute or more if you got the time. Very hard on cold engines to immediately go into operational speed.

Totally not sure why Kubota says to do that. But I choose to ignore that part.

Actually once the engine obtains oil pressure the wear from higher rpms is a mute point. Loading a cold engine and running high combustion chamber pressures is a whole other issue and will cause gasket failures etc.
Standby generators start and wail right up to operating rpm. They last a long time.

 

[xring100]

My car and truck always start with a fast idle all on their own, but yes, the lack of lubrication is my primary reason for ignoring the owner's manual on this one. It just seems to start better with the RPMs set to 1000 instead of 800 (idle) and I figure that it won't make a difference for pre-lubricated wear and tear. I could be wrong and now that I'm thinking about it there's a good chance I'll go back to just starting it at idle.

Yes, lol, sorry for the hijack.

I've never noticed any difference when ambient is warm but definitely cold it starts much smother and I let mine idle at around 1000 rpm to 1150 ish. I've never timed the low oil pressure light to see how much less time it takes to go off when cold at idle or at an elevated rpm. I don't think kubota recommends this such that they want you to wear your engine out faster. It would be interesting to see what a kubota engine engineer had to say

 

[Coyote machine]

If one is using a synthetic or semi-synthetic diesel oil with a 5w-40 or similar designation the 'extra wear' of a higher than idle start is most likely negligible. And synthetic oils are designed to give faster, smoother starts under these conditions, specifically to reduce/prevent wear.
And, with a properly working oil pump a higher initial start RPM would send oil to where it needs to be FASTER than at idle speed. Cased closed-back to the OP's thread and Moses, or is it Noah's ship build?:confused2:

 

[RaydaKub]

I used the 3PH snowblower for the first time last week. I had to run the throttle wide open to get the snow to go more than 10 feet. The blower doesn't take much power to run but seems to need lots of RPM to make anything shoot far enough to call it a snowblower.

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

 

[MHarryE]

Not so sure about hotter combustion with the turbo. Heat does produce NOx, but engine makers added turbos to engines where they normally had N/A to reduce NOx, but some also added cooled EGR. With the turbo you are pumping in more air. Depending on how much fuel you are able to increase you might actually decrease combustion temperatures. My mechanical injection Tier 3 engines had cold start advance to help starting. Those were actually the highest peak combustion pressures we saw and had to use head gaskets capable of the high starting combustion pressure. My larger FADEC controlled engines had it all taken care of by the computer and my engines so equipped never had head gasket problems. As long as you don't go overboard with turbo size you should be in great shape. Remember too that higher horsepower means higher heat rejection into the cooling system so you will need to watch your temps closely until you get a feel. What a fun winter project. Me - all I get to do is go out and plow snow once a day.

 

[buickanddeere]

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

 

[buickanddeere]

This is one of those implements that need rpms to work. That's why they call it a 540 rpm pto. It wouldn't matter if you had 600 hp out in front of a blower. If it is only turning at 250 rpm it won't throw the snow out of the way. Your turbo will not fix this one.

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

 

[nwltruck]

DP double post

 

[nwltruck]

Why do people think they are saving the engine by running it at reduced rpms ?

Took me a wile to get used to running a tractor at high throttle. After dealing with cars and trucks running 200 RPM under redline does not feel right. I do better now but still only rap it up when necessary.

 

[the old grind]

Took me a wile to get used to running a tractor at high throttle. After dealing with cars and trucks running 200 RPM under redline does not feel right. I do better now but still only rap it up when necessary.

I know the feeling, tho' many will produce max torque, and full hyd pump pressure, somewhere below 'PTO-speed'. On both my HST NHs (1.3L, 1.7L) 1800 seemed to be a sweet spot for most loader or snow work, and with the BB & land plane, with no more pressure/lift obvious above that. I confess to running at 1600 for hosteling and most light tasks, but Bush Hog & tiller get the high note. After running a PTO implement at full 540rpm for a while (2200, 2400 tach) 2k doesn't sound so busy. I'm not saving my engine, just sparing my ears and kidneys from the noise & vibration. That said, cup holders make me laugh. Stuff just bounces out at any rpm. :laughing: