I Still Hate My Tractor

[The Fred]

Tore things apart this morning at 5AM. Pulled the fuel tank and A/C bracket, valve cover. Glow plugs ohm fine (0.6 each) and I will do a baseline compression check and timing, valve adj. check before I put it back together. Gonna be a challenge to fit this all and make it look nice and still be able to remove it without remorse if it doesn't work. I see the 5740 has an external EGR to keep NOX down. I think the turbo makes combustion hotter formulating much more NOX. Thanks for the photo, much help.

This Kubota engine is very basic and timeless unlike this new stuff coming down the line.



Fred

 

[kuboman]

This has been discussed in another thread but the poor starting is a result of a timing issue. Kubota retards the timing for emissions. You might want to check that out.

 

[ddb123]

I am not mechanical at all, so I don't know if you are a genius or wasting time. But either way, this is the most interesting thread I've followed in a while!

 

[The Fred]

I have been in the auto business over 40 years and don't mind tearing anything apart; it's putting it back together that complicates things

This tractor is the right "size" for me. It fits perfectly in the shop, garage, tractor shed, on my lifts. It just needs a boost for certain things. I used the 3PH snowblower for the first time last week. I had to run the throttle wide open to get the snow to go more than 10 feet. The blower doesn't take much power to run but seems to need lots of RPM to make anything shoot far enough to call it a snowblower. That might be a thread all itself after this one. Stay tuned I think this weekend is gonna be a marathon hair dryer install on Miss Piggy.



Fred

 

[finspop]

I'm not experienced enough to know whether this is crazy or genius, but I do admire your tenacity, Fred. And the simple fact that you have the skills to consider the install.

 

[Beltman60]

Fred

Don't listen to the no-sayers
You worked hard for your money and you can spend it on whatever you want, anyway you want
when they pony up and pay for your projects then they can have more say in the situation

just when you do all this make sure the timing is correct as an injector pump being off just slightly will cause drastic power and performance losses

The best of luck with your project and please keep the ones that want to learn and enjoy other peoples projects updated

 

[DeereMann]

This has been discussed in another thread but the poor starting is a result of a timing issue. Kubota retards the timing for emissions. You might want to check that out.

kuboman - do you know if Kubota put in a cold start timing advance circuit? if so, then this circuit is suspect in Fred's machine.

 

[aczlan]

I had to run the throttle wide open to get the snow to go more than 10 feet. The blower doesn't take much power to run but seems to need lots of RPM to make anything shoot far enough to call it a snowblower. That might be a thread all itself after this one. Stay tuned I think this weekend is gonna be a marathon hair dryer install on Miss Piggy.

That's how snow blowers generally work (from a walkbehind up to a 500HP dedicated train snowblower). They need a full 540 PTO RPM to work well otherwise the fan doesn't spin fast enough and you get clogs in the chute with wet snow.


Aaron Z

 

[94BULLITT]

That's how snow blowers generally work (from a walkbehind up to a 500HP dedicated train snowblower). They need a full 540 PTO RPM to work well otherwise the fan doesn't spin fast enough and you get clogs in the chute with wet snow.


Aaron Z

I don't think he has any understanding about how tractors work.

 

[TripleR]

Out of idle curiosity and because I seriously considered an L3940, I look up the following: Kubota L3940 Reviews - TractorByNet.com[params]=1%3B20%3B-0

 

[94BULLITT]

Fred, are you releasing the brakes before moving the tractor:laughing:

 

[TexasBoy]

Fred, are you releasing the brakes before moving the tractor:laughing:

Okay, that was funny. Sorry Fred

 

[ovrszd]

When you start the engine cold are you setting the throttle lever somewhere between 1/4 and 1/3 open as opposed to idle. The engine will start much easier and smoke less in fact kubota puts that in my manual.

I've had three Kubotas and all three said to do that when cold starting. I shudder at the thought. A cold engine should always be started at idle and allowed to idle for several seconds or a minute or more if you got the time. Very hard on cold engines to immediately go into operational speed.

Totally not sure why Kubota says to do that. But I choose to ignore that part.

 

[ovrszd]

Fred, are you releasing the brakes before moving the tractor:laughing:

Seriously, one time I jumped on my Brother's L3240 to move it. I thought it was a first class turd 'til I realized the brakes were locked.... :ashamed:

 

[TripleR]

I've had three Kubotas and all three said to do that when cold starting. I shudder at the thought. A cold engine should always be started at idle and allowed to idle for several seconds or a minute or more if you got the time. Very hard on cold engines to immediately go into operational speed.

Totally not sure why Kubota says to do that. But I choose to ignore that part.

I'm getting flashbacks, we had a pretty long thread on this some time ago.

 

[ddb123]

I'm getting flashbacks, we had a pretty long thread on this some time ago.

I too have always wondered about this and choose to cold start my tractor with the throttle slightly bumped up to a "fast idle" position, no matter what the weather.

 

[TomSeller]

That's how snow blowers generally work (from a walkbehind up to a 500HP dedicated train snowblower). They need a full 540 PTO RPM to work well otherwise the fan doesn't spin fast enough and you get clogs in the chute with wet snow.

Aaron Z

Right. They need the 540 PTO RPM, that is why they rate them at 540. 10' is well off of any road I would be plowing.

 

[ovrszd]

I choose to pressurize my engine's lubricating system with oil at the lowest possible load. Idle.

Sorry for the hijack.

 

[ddb123]

I choose to pressurize my engine's lubricating system with oil at the lowest possible load. Idle.

Sorry for the hijack.

My car and truck always start with a fast idle all on their own, but yes, the lack of lubrication is my primary reason for ignoring the owner's manual on this one. It just seems to start better with the RPMs set to 1000 instead of 800 (idle) and I figure that it won't make a difference for pre-lubricated wear and tear. I could be wrong and now that I'm thinking about it there's a good chance I'll go back to just starting it at idle.

Yes, lol, sorry for the hijack.

 

[rmk700]

hmmm...read through this thread and Noah and the Ark came to mind.