I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this...........

   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #81  
As we're just marking time at the moment Larry let's play with this fan stuff.
My first thought is, I've never run into a pusher blade for a cooling system unless it was for a rear (as in the back of the power plant) exhausted cooling system.
Turning a blade in the wrong direction: if it's a curved blade, yes it does look like it would still do the job as the blades still are inclined the same in relation to the hub. But aerodynamically that's not what happens, they actually push 'some' air in the opposite direction because of the curvature.
And the same type of thing happens with a flat blade because of leading edges thickness and tip shapes. Only in the case of flat blades, turning them around backwards only creates a turbulence in front of the fan that makes for little effect in heat transfer.
1] Kubotas use pusher fans.
2] I said that about the shaped/curved blades. Less efficient because aero competes with blade pitch.
3] Im not sure what you are saying about the flat bladed type. Iv seen some that look like thered be no difference from turning them around. Rather inefficiently shaped blades- Probably old automotive. ... The ones on my tractors are the curved/shaped design needed to cool a stationary/slowmoving power source.
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #82  
Lots of equipment with reversible fans.
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #83  
This is getting way out of hand. Here's the deal. When I hold a pin flag (a little wire surveyor's flag) in front of the radiator, it draws it against the radiator. So the air is being sucked through the radiator to the fan. I don't know how long this thing has been overheating-And it IS overheating- because I don't know if the guy I bought it from mentioned it. But definitely since I bought it. I'm not sure what the popular opinion is anymore. Radiator, water pump and thermostat new. Pull the head ?? The hydraulic supply tank for the loader is contained in the loader--completely separate from the tractor hydraulic supply-two separate systems. I don't know if anyone will get this far to read this post and That's what I was afraid would happen. I guess I'm about as confused now as when I started. Not you guys' fault, It's almost impossible to troubleshoot on line. I was just hoping it would be something definite. Meanwhile, I'm waiting for parts for my riding mower. Just mowed 8 acres with a 22" push mower(it took more than 1 day) so right now I'm just trying to get some definite info. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GUYS ! BTW it ain't looking great with Jo. Wait and see game.
So sorry about your wife. -- We can only hope
,,, Your tractor, OTOH, we can accurately diagnose and ultimately fix. Its just a machine. The problem may be just a problem with the engine, affecting, or in combination with the cooling system - or it may be an overload of heat influenced by workload, timing, and/or a malfunctioning hyd system - or a mix of all. The last would be difficult to address. Hopefully we can eliminate something. ... Please answer some questions for starters -- and qualify your answers in any way you think is necessary for the answer to be clear:
,,,1] Are you doing heavy mowing or other heavy work when the tractor overheats quickly? What, for example?
,,,2] Will the tractor overheat at all when doing no work - just running at lo, med, or hi idle?
,,,3] Does the engine run freely at idles or does it labor and appear to be under a load?
,,,4] Does your hyd oil cooler get HOT when the tractor overheats [check the line leading into it]
,,,5] Does your radiator pressurize quickly - even before the engine gets hot [squeeze top or bottom hose]
,,,6] When the tractor overheats quickly is the crankcase still cool, just warm, or hot?
Thanks,
,,,larry
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #84  
My fan question had nothing to do with direction (OP has verified 'pull') but everything to do with volume of airflow. Hate to bring it up again but I couldn't get over having seen so many vehicles o'heat within 15 min when a shroud had been omitted or a wrong blade cobbed on without a proper spacer to get it close enough to the radiator.

From another (spammy, & IMO not so hot) forum:
"I have a gas 1966 John Deere 2020 that runs pretty good. I use it to mow my 6 acre field. I can mow for hours just fine but when I stop and just let the tractor idle it will start overheating and stall out. When its really hot out (mid 90's) I also run into trouble with it running really hot. The temp gage is always close to the red but not in the red unless I let it idle for a while."
The poor guy mentioned fewer things checked/replaced and got less help than we're offering. "Stay the course."

I'm seeing 6-blade fans listed (rectangular, cupped blades) for 2020 and others of the __20 series JDs but also 4-blade with the same bolt pattern & center hole. Shroud would be close enough (thuys outside of side screens) to the battery not to imagine one could have rusted away long go and been tossed or damaging a fan, and that having been jerry-rigged with something inadequate. OP & the PO both handed a mess? Hmmm ...

Pics would help, but what say ye that still have 20-series, or much under-hood time with 'em?

Would any readers of this post be near enough to drive over and help?
I'd like to be that guy, but Chicago & a big lake adds to difficulty getting there ...
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #85  
My fan question had nothing to do with direction (OP has verified 'pull') but everything to do with volume of airflow. Hate to bring it up again but I couldn't get over having seen so many vehicles o'heat within 15 min when a shroud had been omitted or a wrong blade cobbed on without a proper spacer to get it close enough to the radiator.

From another (spammy, & IMO not so hot) forum:
"I have a gas 1966 John Deere 2020 that runs pretty good. I use it to mow my 6 acre field. I can mow for hours just fine but when I stop and just let the tractor idle it will start overheating and stall out. When its really hot out (mid 90's) I also run into trouble with it running really hot. The temp gage is always close to the red but not in the red unless I let it idle for a while."
The poor guy mentioned fewer things checked/replaced and got less help than we're offering. "Stay the course."

I'm seeing 6-blade fans listed (rectangular, cupped blades) for 2020 and others of the __20 series JDs but also 4-blade with the same bolt pattern & center hole. Shroud would be close enough (thuys outside of side screens) to the battery not to imagine one could have rusted away long go and been tossed or damaging a fan, and that having been jerry-rigged with something inadequate. OP & the PO both handed a mess? Hmmm ...

Pics would help, but what say ye that still have 20-series, or much under-hood time with 'em?


I'd like to be that guy, but Chicago & a big lake adds to difficulty getting there ...
Presumeably he means lo idle. Otherwise :confused2:
:eek: Forgot to ask about a fan shroud. I wonder if our OP can do pics.
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #86  
My prayers go out to your wife and you, and by Gods grace let's agree she will make a full recovery. You have received a lot of information regarding the problem
you're having with your 2020 J.D.. I think you have a blockage and would continue with mercuric acid, "lime deposits" build up over time and could be the problem.
Good luck.
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #87  
One always does the simple things first in determining a problem...never tear down and engine until you've exhausted ALL other potential problems.

The one thing that I think you have not addressed correctly is your timing issue. You need to resolve that before you go whole hog, tear it down and, in my opinion, find nothing wrong.

I'm betting on timing.

Do a proper timing check. If you can't find the timing marks, loosen the distributor a little and turn it one way or another, while it's running at idle.

If it sorts 'rolls' then the timing is too far advanced, turn the dist back a little. If it starts running rough, then it's too far retarded, turn it the other way a bit. You'll find the 'sweet spot' where it will run the smoothest.

When you find that spot, rev it a little. If you hear a rumbling at higher rpm's, then you've still got it advanced just a bit too much, turn the dist back just a smidge.

When you think you've got it right, tighten the distr and run it, see if it over heats.

You'd be surprised what the sound of an engine will tell you when you change the timing a little. If you don't want to try this (you've got nothing to lose at this point), find an old guy in your area, who has been playing with old cars/tractors for a while. I bet he'll be able to get the timing about where it should be, maybe not perfect but acceptable, just by ear.

I've done a lot this way.

This will at least rule out one of the simplest things to trouble shoot. You might find that it makes no difference, but at least you've ruled it out.

Good luck.

Timing at idle maybe bang on. Timing at rated rpms maybe too late.
How long have you belonged to the Craft ?
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this...........
  • Thread Starter
#88  
I haven't had time to mess with this today, but I just took the pups out and let it idle for 30 minutes and the temp never got over 120. Does that tell us anything or no ?
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #89  
How long have you belonged to the Craft ?

since 1980


I haven't had time to mess with this today, but I just took the pups out and let it idle for 30 minutes and the temp never got over 120. Does that tell us anything or no ?

run it at a faster rpm for the same time and see what happens. If it's at idle and runs cool but over heats at normal running speed, then it could be the distr failing to advance properly or poor water circulation.
 
   / I'm admitting defeat---- Last time on this........... #90  
I haven't had time to mess with this today, but I just took the pups out and let it idle for 30 minutes and the temp never got over 120. Does that tell us anything or no ?
Looks like it handles itself at lo idle. It would have added a lot of value if you had determined whether it pressurized the radiator at that lo temp. Try med and hi idle.
,,,What about the question that you already know the answer to?
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2017 GENIE GS-2646 (A52472)
2017 GENIE GS-2646...
UNVERFERTH 330 - 19-INCH EXTENSION KIT FOR RIP-STRIP TOOLBAR PART # 63186G (A52748)
UNVERFERTH 330 -...
2011 PETERBILT 389 (A52472)
2011 PETERBILT 389...
2003 GROVE TMS500E MOBILE TRUCK CRANE (A51406)
2003 GROVE TMS500E...
Intermodel Metal Storage Crate (A51573)
Intermodel Metal...
Manac Walking Floor Trailer (A50322)
Manac Walking...
 
Top