Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[oldrustysteel]

I don't have and answer for you.

5y ago, I was working with a few others who were following my efforts to put a new 420cc engine into a Chinese mini that was purchased without a motor. One guy,a building contractor in SoCal, really worked his machine hard on jobsites. Enough to change the color of the engine oil that day. So he changes the oil after every job. Last I heard, the machine is still running. I think he also removed the house cover in the back so the engine would not get so hot.

I think that if I monitored the engine temp, I would place the sensor in the oil sump.

Yes. oil temp would be a good indicator, not sure how to do that. If I cant find the answer i will laser temp the head on my Briggs logsplitter. Same design just a few hp smaller. should give me a reference point. thanks for the reply. And CONGRATULATIONS!! your thread is over 100 pages.. I am new to forums but i have to believe this is quite an accomplishment.

 

[dfkrug]

Yes. oil temp would be a good indicator, not sure how to do that.

I suggest you remove one of the 2 oil sump drain plugs, drill it down the middle, then insert a passive temp sensor in the hole. Silicone it in there. Now you can have gauge on the dash. This is the kind of temp sensor I used for the hyd oil.

This thread has been popular (400K views so far), but I had no idea how the US and Canadian market would get so flooded so quickly. I keep a reasonably low profile locally, but I am still a little surprised that I have not been contacted for help around here. Thx for your support.

Anyway, I would like to make a website that listed and illustrated each area of these Chinese machines that needs better documentation, and what modifications I have done or recommend to make them better. Repairs, too. More than a service manual. I still think that responses and photo sharing should be done here.

 

[oldrustysteel]

I thought it looked like you used a tee and silicone for your temp gauge. I saw it in one of your pics.
I was going to ask you, but you confirmed it. I have the gauge and a voltmeter to install when I get time.

 

[diabeticpilot]

I noticed a slight squeak on my L12 right after rotating the house. I need to inspect the slewing bearing and grease it. I’ll check the motor connection as well. Good reminder!

I’ve noticed my L12 will freewheel but only if I drive downhill. If I put the sticks to neutral it stops. Maybe the L12 doesn’t have that problem?

I had a question about adding a third oil circuit to my L12. The vibration rammer needs that and I’m about to scrap that idea but I would love to get it working. I hate hand tamping!
Has anyone added a third circuit?
I would need to install the hose to a new control valve and run it out the boom. I’m not sure what kind of control valve that would be or how to attach it.

 

[oldrustysteel]

I noticed a slight squeak on my L12 right after rotating the house. I need to inspect the slewing bearing and grease it. I’ll check the motor connection as well. Good reminder!

I’ve noticed my L12 will freewheel but only if I drive downhill. If I put the sticks to neutral it stops. Maybe the L12 doesn’t have that problem?

I had a question about adding a third oil circuit to my L12. The vibration rammer needs that and I’m about to scrap that idea but I would love to get it working. I hate hand tamping!
Has anyone added a third circuit?
I would need to install the hose to a new control valve and run it out the boom. I’m not sure what kind of control valve that would be or how to attach it.

I too have noticed my L12 does not seem to runaway downhill. when on the ramp of my trailer it lost hyd pressure and would not move. I shut it off and moved the sticks around to relieve any pressure and tried to pull it off with the Gator. wouldn't budge. Got my lil old Kubota hooked up and drug it off the ramp. maybe upgraded wheel motors on the L12???

 

[oldrustysteel]

I noticed a slight squeak on my L12 right after rotating the house. I need to inspect the slewing bearing and grease it. I’ll check the motor connection as well. Good reminder!

I’ve noticed my L12 will freewheel but only if I drive downhill. If I put the sticks to neutral it stops. Maybe the L12 doesn’t have that problem?

I had a question about adding a third oil circuit to my L12. The vibration rammer needs that and I’m about to scrap that idea but I would love to get it working. I hate hand tamping!
Has anyone added a third circuit?
I would need to install the hose to a new control valve and run it out the boom. I’m not sure what kind of control valve that would be or how to attach it.

It may be possible to add another valve to the stack. I think there are 8 valves on the stack now. if you remove the 8
-12mm bolts on the access panel, you can see your stack and how much room is available. I didnt know you needed 2 aux valves for the hammer

 

[oldrustysteel]

I noticed a slight squeak on my L12 right after rotating the house. I need to inspect the slewing bearing and grease it. I’ll check the motor connection as well. Good reminder!

Did you follow the guidelines for greasing the house bearing and gear? You need to allow at least 10 pumps just to fill the extension hose. Then 5 pumps for both grease zerks. then rotate cab 90* and repeat. until you have gone full circle.I think if done correctly, the initial greasing on the house bearing and gear will use most of a full tube of grease. If you look thru the battery compartment door you can see the red grease tubes and get an idea of where the grease is going. Hope this helps. I think house bearing problems would be the last thing I would ever want..

 

[dfkrug]

I’ve noticed my L12 will freewheel but only if I drive downhill. If I put the sticks to neutral it stops. Maybe the L12 doesn’t have that problem?

These machines that don't have cross-port RVs do not "freewheel" downhill unless the control levers are actuated in the downhill direction. That is the problem. On the steepest slopes (I have had them on 40% slopes) they will creep downhill very slowly with the levers in the OFF position with blade and boom up. That is not the problem. The danger is when you drive downhill.

I find it impossible to feather the drive controls when going downhill on slopes greater than 7-8%. So, moving downhill is a somewhat jerky experience of on-off-on, and repeat. I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

 

[oldrustysteel]

These machines that don't have cross-port RVs do not "freewheel" downhill unless the control levers are actuated in the downhill direction. That is the problem. On the steepest slopes (I have had them on 40% slopes) they will creep downhill very slowly with the levers in the OFF position with blade and boom up. That is not the problem. The danger is when you drive downhill.

I find it impossible to feather the drive controls when going downhill on slopes greater than 7-8%. So, moving downhill is a somewhat jerky experience of on-off-on, and repeat. I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

Yikes. So I have something to look forward to!! I am already backing down hills because I need an extension tube in my hyd tank so I dont cavitate. I emailed AGT a week ago. No reply other than they sent me a pic of a ripper I really like. What do you think of this agt ripper?

 

[D'oh]

157 of them selling in R Bro's Sale, MINNEAPOLIS/Kanas City today/tomorrow. If anyone wants deals on Attachments, they are going Cheap Some Augers that No one have Bid On yet.

I wonder if I could talk the Misses into a 10 hr drive on Boxing Day?

 

[MattB4]

Yikes. So I have something to look forward to!! I am already backing down hills because I need an extension tube in my hyd tank so I dont cavitate. I emailed AGT a week ago. No reply other than they sent me a pic of a ripper I really like. What do you thinkView attachment 839061 of this agt ripper?

If I am not mistaken that ripper is for a much much larger excavator. AGT imports lots of things for farm and heavy equipment. The ripper that fits the pins for the 1-ton is this one. I see it is listed for $250 at FREE SHIPPING 2 Ton New Mini Excavator, EPA certified USA KUBOTA Diesel Engine | eBay

 

[oldrustysteel]

Thanks Matt.

 

[dfkrug]

It may be possible to add another valve to the stack. I think there are 8 valves on the stack now. if you remove the 8
-12mm bolts on the access panel, you can see your stack and how much room is available.

Adding a section is doable, if you can buy one. All the sections on my valve and the spare I bought seem to be identical. I do not know of different makers of this 8-spool stack valve. The cost of my spare was $350, and I have not needed it. If adding a section, 3 new threaded rods will be needed for the additional thickness.

As for needing another spool, I would consider diverting flow from an unneeded function (bkt or blade?) first.

 

[Fredrik]

Glad to see you have not become discouraged.

Nope ! Infact I speced out a 2-ton to 2.5-ton machine and companies are bidding on it. Importing myself of course. Not importing"myself", just a new machine. Oh never mind.

 

[jaylast]

Here's the stack type leking uses for kv13. With pilot assembly/block screwed on top/ bottom. Fob $60/section.

Vibratory attachment is sounding pretty good after the 23tons of 2a modified gravel I just spread lol, but it packs in just driving on it. I'd need one so rarely, would consider renting, or just buyin a HF model

 

[vancouver]

The cheapest new Chinese excavator in Vancouver,bc is down to $7k cdn and no tax. Used to be $10k. Craigslist flooded with different sellers.

 

[Fredrik]

I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

It happens. I keep my bucket low to the ground when traveling either forward or backward down hills. This technique has saved me a few times. When traveling across a slope more than 10 degrees I put out stretched arm as low up hill as possible. Where I live there is no such thing as a flat spot. Pucker factor is always high , hence ordering a custom ULTRA wide machine. Well....trying to order.

 

[diabeticpilot]

Did you follow the guidelines for greasing the house bearing and gear? You need to allow at least 10 pumps just to fill the extension hose. Then 5 pumps for both grease zerks. then rotate cab 90* and repeat. until you have gone full circle.I think if done correctly, the initial greasing on the house bearing and gear will use most of a full tube of grease. If you look thru the battery compartment door you can see the red grease tubes and get an idea of where the grease is going. Hope this helps. I think house bearing problems would be the last thing I would ever want..

I have not done anything to the slewing (house) bearing. I see the two zerk fittings. There is a bunch of grease coming out of the protector so I assumed it had been greased. The manual had some broken directions for how to do it. All I could see was that you idle the machine for 5 minutes and then do grease in 90 degree increments.

I will look through the battery compartment and visually check the grease tubes and see what is going on. I basically just keep pumping into both zerks until I can see grease coming out from behind the protector? 5 pumps top and bottom? I am not sure what you mean by "extension hose".

 

[diabeticpilot]

These machines that don't have cross-port RVs do not "freewheel" downhill unless the control levers are actuated in the downhill direction. That is the problem. On the steepest slopes (I have had them on 40% slopes) they will creep downhill very slowly with the levers in the OFF position with blade and boom up. That is not the problem. The danger is when you drive downhill.

I find it impossible to feather the drive controls when going downhill on slopes greater than 7-8%. So, moving downhill is a somewhat jerky experience of on-off-on, and repeat. I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

So you keep the boom and bucket downhill? That way the jerky motion has a bucket to fall onto? I was keeping everything uphill and going backwards. But the jerky motion does cause some serious pucker factor.

 

[oldrustysteel]

I have not done anything to the slewing (house) bearing. I see the two zerk fittings. There is a bunch of grease coming out of the protector so I assumed it had been greased. The manual had some broken directions for how to do it. All I could see was that you idle the machine for 5 minutes and then do grease in 90 degree increments.

I will look through the battery compartment and visually check the grease tubes and see what is going on. I basically just keep pumping into both zerks until I can see grease coming out from behind the protector? 5 pumps top and bottom? I am not sure what you mean by "extension hose".

The extension hose or tube connects at the grease fitting and travels back to the house bearing and the swing motor gear. They are probably red and can be seen under the battery access door. 5 pumps minimum per fitting. All of my grease fittings were completely dry when I got my L12. Had .2 hours when I got it.