Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[LouNY]

I've been slowly modifying and improving my little excavator. I recently wondered if it was possible to have the light switches illuminate when in the ON position. I popped a switch out of the dash and disassembled it and was surprised to see an LED and resistor installed. I'm not an electrical person and have no idea how I would get this work or if it's even possible?

Can anyone help me?

Are the two unused terminals the ones wired to the led in the picture?
If so a jumper from the load side of the switch to one terminal and a ground wire on the other should make it light up when on.

edited;
Likely the load side power should go to the resistor

 

[dfkrug]

You will have to add a wire from the switch to ground to provide a return current path for the LED though.

The best solution will have a wire to ground for the LED with series resistor, as you say.

Sometimes you don't need the extra wire to ground, depending on what you are switching and the value of the resistor. If the switch is for the directly-connected work light, running the LED/resistor in series is not good. For a relay powering a fan, it may be OK. Worth a try.

That is why you have to find out what switch you have to start with. Another one may work better, as with the starter switch.

 

[JohnnyB24]

The best solution will have a wire to ground for the LED with series resistor, as you say.

Sometimes you don't need the extra wire to ground, depending on what you are switching and the value of the resistor. If the switch is for the directly-connected work light, running the LED/resistor in series is not good. For a relay powering a fan, it may be OK. Worth a try.

That is why you have to find out what switch you have to start with. Another one may work better, as with the starter switch.

He has a simple double pole single throw switch and since there is no ground path for the LED current, It will not light when the switch is in the closed position. It depends on the load to provide a ground path for the 10-20 milliamps that it takes to light the LED.

That's why I think it's just better to change the switch. My light switch DOES light up when the switch is set to on so I pulled it out for a look and a picture. Note the separate two wires and connector that are just for the LED. The yellow is connected to the switched positive and the black is ground for the return path.
I chicken scratched a schematic of what I think he has now since a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[1hp]

Briggs & Stratton alternator ID chart. in case you were wondering what your capacity is.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_id.pdf

 

[ArlyA]

Briggs & Stratton alternator ID chart. in case you were wondering what your capacity is.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_id.pdf

I thought they had stators?

 

[dfkrug]

I thought they had stators?

The above graphic link has been posted before. There are many options, and they all include one or more stationary coils (stator) and rotating magnets. The rectifier is either inside or outside the engine housing. As shown, there are even fully separate alternators that are external to the engine itself, as on your tractor.

 

[scutty]

New account here, TBN won't do a reset but it knows my email is in use already. Oh well.

My Typhon Storm One X showed up yesterday on a flatbed with 3 other mini X and a little walk behind skid steer. They had ramps so I just drove the machine off into my driveway.

I've read this whole thread waiting for the machine to show up and so much good info but now I'm forgetting some of it already.

A few things different that I can think of is this one comes with some ducting from the fly wheel (no screen on the cover) directly to the outside screen on the side panel to pull in fresh air. The oil cooler is setup with a substantial mounting structure and an 80 watt fan that is on with the key. The hydro oil did get very hot while traveling long distances. No hydro oil filter sadly so that is something I'm going to need to figure out where and how. Hopefully 1/2 barb fittings would be sufficient on the return line of the cooler. I'd think so??

Already bent the thumb testing out its capability. Oh well, probably leave it bent unless it gets much worse. I was surprised how smooth it can be at lower revs and smooth control movements. I'm not a smoother operator but in time I think it will be fine.

The rear door access has a key latch and stays open when lifted up the whole way which is nice. Canopy is fairly thick steel and survived the ride from CA to the east coast so that doesn't seem to be an issue like many have had. The 4 post canopy also seems to be fairly substantial and should actually function as a ROPs. I don't think I'll bother with RV testing as it has more power than it can realistically use for its weight. Will see if I end up adding any weight.

 

[D'oh]

Congrats Scutty, Nice looking Machine

 

[dfkrug]

A few things different that I can think of is this one comes with some ducting from the fly wheel (no screen on the cover) directly to the outside screen on the side panel to pull in fresh air. The oil cooler is setup with a substantial mounting structure and an 80 watt fan that is on with the key. The hydro oil did get very hot while traveling long distances. No hydro oil filter sadly so that is something I'm going to need to figure out where and how. Hopefully 1/2 barb fittings would be sufficient on the return line of the cooler. I'd think so??

Welcome to TBN

Nice to see your unit has the flywheel fan ducting. So many units do not include that, which is pretty standard for the 1-cyl diesel engines. And some of them put the optional oil cooler right where that duct should go. Sooo many variations....

As for the hyd oil return filtration, you can use low-pressure hoses and barb connections if you want, no problem.

A little planning goes a long way towards keeping the machines cooler. I don't have an oil cooler myself, and my alternator does not have enough juice for an 80W fan. But, I have the flywheel air duct and route the muffler outside. If installing an oil cooler, the air flow across the radiator should have minimal obstruction, towards the outside of the house, IMO.

 

[scutty]

My exhaust does have an extension screwed in and the oil cooler has the correct airflow so I'm happy that's good.

The zerks are all protected well too.