installing slip clutch pto on gearbox shaft!

[mattellis2]

holy heck, what a job! i picked up my new tiller from tractor supply this weekend, and spent a few hours getting it set up. this is my first brand new implement, and i had to install the slip clutch end of the pto shaft on the input for the gear box. i guess in my mind, i though it would slide on the way the opposite end does for attachment to the tractor, and then i would install the retaining bolt.

WRONG. it took an hour of pretty generous whacking with a 2" diameter pine dowel/hammer to get the thing seated properly. i don't think i did anything wrong, because the retaining bolt went right in when i finally got it to the right position on the input shaft. Why in the world is it machined so tightly!?

anyway, got it installed, and the shaft length looks ok per the owner's manual discussion. i am going to pick up some gear oil on the way home tonight, and see what she can do.

-matt

 

[Bedlam]

That sure doesn't sound right to me but i have no experience with that type. I just got the splined one. I thought it would slip on the splines and have the usual locking mechanism, but instead there are two bolts that slide through to keep it in place. No problem there. But I sure will look forward to what others say about the tightness. sound like it isn't going to be removed now

 

[Baby Grand]

I had a deuce of a time getting my clutch side PTO spline installed on my KKII. There was clear plastic masking tape (from the paint op) still wrapped around the spline. When I got that peeled off I noticed several thick paint goobers on the spline tooth flanks and down into the spline root fillet areas. Took a while to scrape out, but I got it cleaned up pretty well, however it was still a bear to engage.

I think you'll be very happy with your new tiller. Which one did you get?

 

[mattellis2]

i purchased the 5 foot KK. i had some store credit that i needed to use or lose, and a coupon for 10%, and ended up getting out the door for $1205. i'm looking forward to using it for a fall garden. going to start out relatively small...been working on removing as many rocks as i can for a 30'x50' area. i'm sure i'm going to hit some that are buried...how does the tiller react?

 

[mattellis2]

That sure doesn't sound right to me but i have no experience with that type. I just got the splined one. I thought it would slip on the splines and have the usual locking mechanism, but instead there are two bolts that slide through to keep it in place. No problem there. But I sure will look forward to what others say about the tightness. sound like it isn't going to be removed now

i thought it was awfully tight as well, but figured that it wouldn't keep moving if it wasn't supposed to. it seemed to take the same amount of force from the time i started driving it on until i got it seated. it seated just fine...it just took a lot of effort.

-matt

 

[Farmwithjunk]

i purchased the 5 foot KK. i had some store credit that i needed to use or lose, and a coupon for 10%, and ended up getting out the door for $1205. i'm looking forward to using it for a fall garden. going to start out relatively small...been working on removing as many rocks as i can for a 30'x50' area. i'm sure i'm going to hit some that are buried...how does the tiller react?

Rocks vs tillers are like a bowling ball in a blender! So long as there aren't too many rocks, no great harm, but they'll sure wake you up when you hit one.

 

[Baby Grand]

I have very few rocks in the areas that I have tilled, so when I do hit a big one (cobble size) it's a real eye opener. Before I tilled in an old garden area for the first time I ran a subsoiler back and forth, looking for any irrigation pipe, fence posts or wire, foundations, etc. Then I started tilling with a very shallow pass, just to see how it handled the vegetation. Two successively deeper passes got me down to about 5" on a 60' x 75' plot of sandy loam in about 1 hour (including some fiddling with the top link length and the skid plate height).

Started trying to reclaim a multiflora rose infested field in a different area this weekend past, but had to hang it up. The soil there is very heavy clay and it's been wet, causing the PTO slip clutch to, well, slip. Adjusted the clutch to the point that it would muscle through the clay, but had to quit due to darkness. Hoping I can finish this weekend.

By the way, there is some great advice in another TBN thread about adjusting the PTO slip clutch - snoop around for it - it saved me a lot of time.

Let us know how it goes.

Jim

 

[Bedlam]

If you should find the other adjusting thread could you post a link here please. thanks

 

[Baby Grand]

If you should find the other adjusting thread could you post a link here please.

Search on "shear pin purgatory".

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Hope mine goes ok, I just bought a 5' KK tiller tonight. Still in the crate.

 

[schmism]

i dont understand what the problem is. I bought a slip clutch that is designed to be added to any impliment (female spline and male spline opposite side)

mine slipped right on. Now rangling the PTO saft... cutting it down, rewelding the sq bung end etc, THATS a diffrent story

 

[Bedlam]

I think the original poster bought the smooth slide on one the shaft such as this one.
SLIP CLUTCH W/1 3/8SMF M X1 3/8SMOOTH FE - Agri Supply
the one it sounds like you have and use is like mine this one
SLIP CLUTCH W/1-3/8X6 MALE X 1-3/8X6 - Agri Supply

the splined one slipped right onto my shaft, and uses retaining bolts to keep it from sliding.
the smooth ones use the bolt where the shear bolt goes through to hold it from spinning, I think he meant the fit was so tight it wouldn't slide over the smooth shaft easily.Not sure if thats the norm or not.
Hopefully someone who uses the smooth one will weight in.

 

[mattellis2]

i was actually talking about installing the clutch on the shaft coming out of the gearbox on the tiller. that shaft is splined, and matches the splines cut into the female end of the slip clutch housing. the male end was already attached to a yoke with u-joints installed, so i don't actually know what that connection looks like.

-matt

 

[Baby Grand]

It was the splined one.

I had to wedge two screwdriver blades into the split collar slot to get mine to install and there was still a lot of colorful language to be heard. And that was after I figured out I had to remove the lock bolt. Yup.

Luckily, I didn't need to cut the shaft length down at all, but at one point during this whole wraslin' match with the split collar the tractor side shaft slid out of the tiller side shaft. I couldn't get them back together without a lot of chamfering of the outer shaft and inner shaft's ragged ID and OD edges.

-Jim

 

[Window Geek]

My King Kutter 4 foot tiller had the same difficulty.
I stripped the overpaint off the spline on the gearbox, took off the retaining bolt, greased the collar and the spline, and it went on with a little help from the 3 pound dead drop hammer. The bolt retainer went on 1/6 of a turn at a time, seeing as I didn't get the shaft spline flat and I was in full sun. If the tiller had been in the shade, Murphy's Law wouldn't have applied!
After much bending over and clanking of box wrenches, the little bastid was tight.

 

[tommu56]

I would have sent the wife on a shoping trip
take the clutch apart put the female shaft half it in the oven at about 300 or 400 for mabe 1/2 hour and with some welding gloves try sliding it on.
Then reassemble it after it cools.
Just haver it done and the oven cooled off before she gets home!

tommu

 

[Cyberroc]

Just haver it done and the oven cooled off before she gets home!

Ah grasshopper, let me teach you the way...

Send wife shopping for a couple of hours, use oven to heat parts at a temp used to cook something your wife likes, veal parm here, take part out of oven, put dinner/lunch in and set the cut off timer, and you have it...

Now you have your part on, a happy wife, and a great meal.

Not that I would ever suggest such a thing, however I will say one summer we had a lot of veal for dinner...