Instructions to add extra spools to L2800 for grapple.

[teg]

This is for a MID-tractor mount!!! I would like to document what I did. It took me a LOT of reading at TBN to figure out how to get this done (thickheaded?), I hope to add to the pool of information here. (Fast forward to the end, It WORKS!!!) warning, my writing sucks, if you need clarification on something... ask.

As for the Location of the New Spool: I didn't want the spool to be on the rear of the tractor, rops or fender where it might block my view. IslandTractor once said about "the rear remote: make sure the control lever is conveniently located on your tractor..." so I decided I wanted them near the FEL controls. This might not be a good location for TnT but time will tell... I wanted to take advantage of the hoses that were already located there.

I bought WestBrookLawn's grapple and thought about electric hydraulic diverter but the money didn't add up and KennyV said "...you ever needing remote hydraulics it is worth the cost to do rear remotes and run a good hose down under the tractor to the front..." I thought, why not split the difference just in case you want two or three hookups in either location... 7' hose goes to either the front or the rear of the tractor.

 

[teg]

L2800 Hydraulics uses Open Center valves with power beyond that are plumbed inline/straight/in a row (for the farmers). I had 2 options, either before the FEL or after. I went with "after" the FEL but before the 3ph which was down steam.

I took the return line (power beyond) from the FEL and used it to be the return of the new spool valve (going to the 3ph). Then I bought a hydraulic hose to re-route from the (now vacant) FEL power beyond to tie in to the "IN" port of the new valve. Then all I had to do was connect the new low pressure tank return line to the old low pressure one from the FEL using another hose and a TEE. Sounds easy, eh?? See the instructions that came with the Spool that I've added to - hope it made it more clear. (clear as mud as they say...)

First step for me was just mounting the valve/spool... once mounted, the rest was just plumbing (which hates me as much as I hate it). I remove the plastic cover of the FEL. Then removed the locking device. I had to drill the holes larger for the 5/16th rod that I wanted to use... I used the 2 holes for the locking device and two that held the plastic cover on. Then used 5/16 threaded rod (about 3" long) to mount a 1/4" plate (3"x7"-ish) just above where the locking device for FEL is located. The front hole near the tractor, I used about 6" of the threaded rod and it was used to also hold the new 3 spool valve. I then marked and drill the other two holes on the 1/4" plate for the new valve, cut threaded rod so that it didn't stick up. Used lock tight on nuts.

 

[teg]

After thoughts... could not believe it didn't leak and it only took two days (based this statement on previous plumbing work ). I did use TFE paste... on everything. I like the location. I bought a compact spool that caused some headaches (can not screw in 2 90* fittings next to each other!@#$%^&*) Plumbing was very compact and tight - almost too tight. Hoses are touching the paint, should I protect them some how? I don't care if the paint rubs off... after spending the money to upgrade this tractor, I don't ever plan to sell it. Plan to post all the parts that I used... once I figure out what I have left over...

I did check the pressure, it was 2250, it should be 2347 I decided to bump it up to 2400. I did NOT have to add a shim, I just tighten the nut about 1/2 a turn.

 

[teg]

Ordered from Surplus Center: Warning if you use the Ground shipment method - they simply did not fill my order for 3 days. It only took 2.5 days to be delivered via ground, once they got around to packing it.

1st order
9-7863 - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE 1x $199.95
918-3284 - 3/8" X 84" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 4000 PSI HYD HOSE 4x $62.00
9-6901-8-6 - SAE 8M x 3/8 NPTF 90 SWIVEL 4x $17.80
9-7381 - 3/8" NPT QUICK COUPLER F/F S40-3 4x $31.80
$338.25 s&h $28.75

2nd order (too fast - should have waited)
9-5302-38 - N600S 3/8 NPT PARKER NEEDLE VALVE 2x $69.90
$69.90 s&h $11.55

3rd order (once I figured out a problem with my plan)
9-7184 - 3/8" NPT HEX NIPPLE 4x $2.36
9-1503-6-6 - 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 NPTF 45 SWIVEL 4x $13.00
9-1501-6-6 - 3/8 NPTM x 3/8 NPTF 90 SWIVEL 2x $5.90
9-6900-8-6 - SAE 8M x 3/8 NPTF SWIVEL 4x $7.96
$29.22 s&h $25.4

Local napa store
H42508 - 3/8" hydraulic hose 36" and 30" $29.45
060-J06 - 3/8" npt-m swivel Hose ends 3x $9.09 ($27.27) (didn't need swivel)
060-608 - JIC? taper end swivel Hose ends $6.59 (didn't need swivel)
c5706x8 - "tee" fitting JIC? female swivel plus 2 males $12.79
9315x8x6 - sae-m 8 to npt-f 3/8 $3.69
$83.78

hardware store
tfe paste $5.65
Thread 5/16 x 36" rod $2.06
Box of nuts (plenty of extras) $5.40

Cost $534.26
Shipping and reaming by SC $65.70
Total $599.96

 

[kennyd]

Nice write-up:thumbsup:

 

[dex3361]

Great thread Teg. I have considered installing set up just like that. Good documentation as well.:thumbsup:

 

[dfkrug]

First step for me was just mounting the valve/spool... once mounted, the rest was just plumbing....

Very nice, TEG.

Finding a good location to mount the valve is often the toughest part,
whether you use a manual or solenoid-operated spool valve block. Your
location is quite creative.

The L2800/L3400/L4400 is so popular that your write-up should come in
handy.

 

[teg]

Nice write-up:thumbsup:

Great thread Teg. I have considered installing set up just like that. Good documentation as well.:thumbsup:

Thanks guys... I'm going to try and show how it was done... figure I would use some photos...

 

[Thomas]

Also being L2800 owner I thank you for sharing...now you got me to thinking.

 

[teg]

More photos... Oops forgot to resize a couple of them... oh, well...

 

[ctgoldwing]

Also being L2800 owner I thank you for sharing...now you got me to thinking.

Being a L3400 owner, ditto & thanks for nice write up

 

[TDVT]

Hey Teg, this is great! Thanks for taking the time to post it all.

I am most interested (at the moment) to add a bucket grapple thumb (which I see you have) but if I'm mucking with the hydraulics it makes sense to me to add additional capability for 3PH attachments at the same time.

I like where you mounted the additional spool (I have an L3400) & most of it all makes sense though I don't have hydraulic experience beyond the automotive kind.

Questions though.....

You used a 3 spool control; one for the grapple, two for rear-remotes?

What are the needle valves for?

I was wondering what you have hooked up, in one of the pics it looks as though there is only one circuit unused?

Thanks again, Ted

 

[teg]

...but if I'm mucking with the hydraulics it makes sense to me to add additional capability for 3PH attachments at the same time.

Ted ...it made sense to me, too. :thumbsup: It was not much more $$$ for the 3 - If I were to do it again, a fourth valve is $40... and only sticks out an 1" more. I would plug it until I needed it.

I like where you mounted the additional spool (I have an L3400) & most of it all makes sense though I don't have hydraulic experience beyond the automotive kind.

I had NO hydraulic experience... Take time to read many of the threads on TBN. ...and above all asked before you buy!!!

You used a 3 spool control; one for the grapple, two for rear-remotes?

...I'm in the process of buying the Top and Till hydraulics for the 3ph... but the part I like, I can route the lines to either the front or back very easily (if I were to do it again, I would use 96" instead of 84" but as it is now, I'll add extra hose on the TnT)

What are the needle valves for?

...to be able to slow down the hydraulic flow. The same can be done by feathering the valve... but this is idiot proof... so I got it for the wife .

I was wondering what you have hooked up, in one of the pics it looks as though there is only one circuit unused?

...Actually until I place my order, two valves do nothing :confused2: The valve that you see "un-used" will actually be the grapple. That is so when I drop the FEL, the grapple will disconnect right there. It was also planned that I can hook a log splitter up to it... (thus, nice to have 4 valves).

Oh, BTW... the bucket grapple is very nice, drive up to a pile of brush and let the tractor pick it up...

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks for this super writeup. I am looking to do a similar thing. I want to get my grapple off the rear remotes, I have two, so I can use them for TnT. I have bought my valve and decided I want the new grapple control near the FEL lever. I was trying to figure how to do that when I saw this thread. I will be using a lot of your ideas. Thanks again and great job :thumbsup:

gg

 

[Mande1992]

This is just what I have been looking to add to my L3400. Thanks :thumbsup:

 

[teg]

This is just what I have been looking to add to my L3400. Thanks :thumbsup:

Glad to post it... need to update but don't have much time. Have the top part of TnT and working to weld up the 2nd "T" tilt...

I would skip the Needle Valve if you want to save money since I can control the valves pretty easy by feathering them. (still it's a good "safety" device for my wife - slows it down for her).

 

[jokergerm]

With the increase in pressure how much more lift does it give you

 

[teg]

Some where on TBN I think it was calculated to be about 1 lbs per 1 PSI... so for me 150 psi = 150 lbs. (I hope I have that right)

 

[teg]

Someone asked about how the return line is hooked up and it is a bit Hidden so I'm adding a little write up: The links in the writeup are to the photos above, but I'm adding some extra ones just in case.

For the return line, Follow the Gray Tape from your hydraulic block (hopefully it the same - check your manual so you follow the correct one). The return line goes to the bottom of the FEL of my L2800.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...xtra-spools-l2800-tractor-hydraulic-plate.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...d-extra-spools-l2800-before-fel-hyraulics.jpg

Whatever the style connector that kubota uses for the FEL (I think JIC), I got a "T" with the same connectors, I unhooked the return line from the bottom of the FEL valve, put in a male to male "T" with the 3rd leg of the "T" being a Female swivel. You can't really see the third leg of it which is pointing downward:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...add-extra-spools-l2800-xx-fel-connections.jpg

There is a hydraulic hose that loops under from the other side that is the return line from the new spool. That hose was 3/8" NPT coming out of the new spool with a 3/8" JIC female end on the other that connect into the bottom of the "T".

Feel free to ask questions...

 

[teg]

If I were to do it again, I would skip the needle valve like I said before. I would look into using 1/4" lines instead of 3/8". I would not change the location and I'm sort of glad I didn't have a 4th spool... it would have been very crowded with a couple more hoses around there.

I have disconnect the loader a couple of times and there were no problems connecting backup. I have the cylinder for the sidelink, I need to weld on it but it's low priority right now. The hydraulic toplink is done and I love it for grading.