International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going

[FlyFishn]

Harbor Freight has gasket scraper sets like these for $6. I found a Snap-On scraper along the road 40 years ago, still have it in the toolbox and use it occasionally. Long enough you can reach in and around things. I also just use a putty knife about 2" wide. I'll run it across the grinder just on one side to make a sharp edge.

These are just to get the rough off. For something I completely tear down I clean up with the 90º air die grinder with 2" Roloc head, and medium gasket removal disc's. Wouldn't advise using that on this, unless you stuff some shop towels up around the inside of the crankcase to prevent gasket debris from getting in there.


View attachment 3240557

Though still a PITA, these scrapers got the job done for the most part.

I can't fit the angle grinder up in there to do the same polycarbide disk treatment I did everywhere else. So it will have to be the dremel. I ordered some similar abrasive wheels with a 1/8" shank to use. That will be a couple days to get yet. Between the 90deg attachment and the extension/remote attachment I have a lot more flexibility to "get in places" - and as tight as it is under the engine block I need all the help I can get.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B42JG8S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2JBP2H9YMUEUF&th=1

 

[FlyFishn]

Still slow going.

I got to working on the gasket removal again last night.

This is probably the worst job I've done on the tractor yet. Getting the lift housing to separate from the transmission/rear end housing was probably right up there but I think this surpasses it for 2 reasons:
1. It is under the tractor (IE - laying down to work)
2. Obstructed access.

Add to that the mess.

I think I got another 4" or so of the sealing surface prepped last night. The abrasive wheels I got for the Dremel don't work very well on the "gasket" material. So I switched to using a 60 grit Dremel quick-change sanding disk. This eats the "gasket" material (paper-like) much better. However, I think the abrasive wheels do a better job (more polishing/less abrasion) to prep the metal surface, only when the layering above the metal is thin. The bad part of that is in a lot of places there is still so much paper-ish gasket still adhered to the sealing surface I have to eat it with the 60 grit sanding disk. That was the whole problem a while back with the restricted access - I can't get in there to scrape/chisel off the material. I am still somewhat grasping at straws to get in there - even between the Dremel running straight, or with the 90deg adapter, getting access to the whole surface in places to prep it is next to impossible.

What I really don't want to do is take the tractor more apart to do this - IE - remove the steering cylinders, axle, hydraulic lines, etc. I am putting it back together, not taking it apart, at this point. That is, until I get to checking over the engine (compression, ignition, etc) and see where that leads on the next round of work - if it comes to that.

We'll see where this goes.

Note the white-ish dust. Thats the remnants of the gasket chewed off by the sanding disk. I get that stuff everywhere. I am trying to protect the inside of the engine some with the towels and magnets. That helps, but doesn't eliminate the issue - I still need to be able to work under there.

 

[DJ54]

I hear you laying under there working laying on your back. I never could do that for very long reaching up, unless my head is propped up a bit. I'm good for maybe 10 minutes, then have to get out from underneath whatever I'm working on. Mainly to do with an ear problem I apparently inherited, it's like I get seasick/nauseous. About 10 years ago I found some OTC Dramamine seemed to help, just need to take it 20 minutes or so before crawling under something.

I'll bet that was a treat dropping that oil pan down. Without seeing it in person, seems if there was enough room to drop the pan, there'd be enough room to work on it. Oil pan gaskets tend to be a little thicker than many others and had a time getting them off before getting my air die grinder and gasket removal discs, but that was with the engine hanging on a stand, so not so bad as far as working on it.

Must be some dandy adhesive/sealant they used on it. I've got a few old narrow putty knives I got in boxes of tools at sales I sharpen on one side I use to work on stubborn gaskets like that, then finish cleaning up with the die grinder. Don't know if you have any old one's laying around to do that or not, even if you could cut part of the blade off then sharpen to give you a little more room to work.

I'm thinking my die grinder is about 6" to 7" long, but under there you would still have the air hose to contend with, unless you put a 90º swivel on it. The 2" discs I use remove gaskets pretty quick, but don't last long between wear and filling up with gasket material, that's why I buy them in boxes of 50. I get them from a tool guy at Johnstown Swappers Day, but he also sells on Ebay. There's 50 in a box for $20. Noticed the other day I have 3 full boxes, but still buy one every year, sometimes 2 if I have a project coming up. They are even pretty expensive at HF, so buying in bulk pays, and these work just as well as the one's from 3M. And if I remember right, they are made right here in Ohio.

Keep at it, you'll get it. Sometimes we get into projects where you really don't look forward to working on something like this, seems to take forever but you'll get it.

 

[Quebecguy]

Have you tried gasket remover spray? Something like: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/CRL...Xek_76Tt6h8Ghn1tLxEaDl60TCdlXHtiIK7aa8j_DcBn3

 

[FlyFishn]

Have you tried gasket remover spray? Something like: https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/CRL...Xek_76Tt6h8Ghn1tLxEaDl60TCdlXHtiIK7aa8j_DcBn3

Hmm. I've never heard of it. Thanks for the suggestion. At this point I'm willing to try just about anything.

 

[Quebecguy]

Hmm. I've never heard of it. Thanks for the suggestion. At this point I'm willing to try just about anything.

Please be careful if you do try this kind of product - it can be very harmful to the eyes and skin!

 

[FlyFishn]

Please be careful if you do try this kind of product - it can be very harmful to the eyes and skin!

Thanks for the heads up.

That probably explains my trouble, then. I went to 3 stores and only one clerk (at an autoparts store) had even remotely heard of what I was asking about.

That said, it does not appear you can get it off-the-shelf. Though, we have a NAPA regional distribution center fairly close where I have bought things before, but right now I don't have the time to get there to check.

I did find it available as a "ship to store" option so that is what I did. I am hoping to have that Friday or Saturday.

I ordered the same CRC stuff you linked to.

Considering this would be sprayed up laying under the machine maybe I should get a face shield etc before applying...

 

[DJ54]

I used some of that years ago, and it kinda' turns the gaskets and sealer into goo. I can't remember what I was using it on but do remember getting some of the goo on my arms cleaning it off, and it does burn. So yes, a face shield, long sleeves, and probably nitrile gloves wouldn't be a bad idea.