Is a dually needed?

   / Is a dually needed?
  • Thread Starter
#171  
now that interior looks very, very nice...
but what about the genuine pointy horns on the hood?
I though that came standard in Texas...:D
 
   / Is a dually needed? #172  
now that interior looks very, very nice...
but what about the genuine pointy horns on the hood?
I though that came standard in Texas...:D

Only on Cadillacs:laughing:
 
   / Is a dually needed?
  • Thread Starter
#173  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BNMvBnm14o

now that I know I'm looking for a fifth wheel, I thought I'd look at some fresh ideas.
Not sure if this is a fifth wheel but it sure looks like one, well, sort of.
sure would be easy to park... :thumbsup:
 
   / Is a dually needed? #175  
I JUSt bought a new dually for my 5er due to stability and safety margin.
I'd say at 15K, you NEED a dually!
 
   / Is a dually needed?
  • Thread Starter
#176  
well I'm getting closer to putting the rubber on the road. New rubber that is. My motorhome goes back to the dealer on Monday for sale, and when it's sold, I'm seriously considering an Excel fifth wheel that has a GVW of 18,750. Now based on that, I'm not going to ask if I need a dually. I know I do...The sales mgr at the rv dealership said unequivocally from his thirty years experience, buy a dually. He mimed what has been said here, it's not whether you can, or are legal to, but do you want to?
Having spent most of my career in the insurance business, no question I don't want to drive equipment at its limit. Nor the driver.

Kinda fun to watch the latest diesel engine wars, the boost has been turned up, and now it's at 860 pound feet of torque. I always did want a thousand....;) so we're getting closer. There is nothing local worth looking at in used stuff. Now which one to order...F350 4x4 crew cab with an 8 foot bed. That ought to be long enough. I'm told I need long. Makes sense. For two parking spots...:( About 23-24K tow rated, plenty for my intended 19K. But the Ram is awfully nice...and my normal allegiance to GM has disappeared here. Until GM turns up the boost on the Duramax, which they like the night following the day will surely do, GM is sucking the rear one in bragging rights. Momentarily. I'll bet there's another thread on this. Always is. Been discussing the big three for over fifty years, and this is what the right kind of free market competition will get you, constantly improving products. And frankly, all three are so good and so powerful I'm not sure it matters any more.

But, which one will ride the nicest, relatively, when unhooked? Assume lowering tire pressure appropriately; I don't put super heavy stuff in the bed without upping the air pressure. Sure learned that on my Suburban 2500 and my motorhome. Those 90 psi Goodyear rv radials ride like circular rocks. I'm looking for comfort, not off road at all. And I'm going to have it for a long time for a farm truck too so I want to get it right.

So I've been sucked in/successfully marketed to by a nicer heavier fifth wheel trailer, so I guess I should end this thread by saying, YES, I need a dually. For this weight.

appreciate all your helpful comments.
 
   / Is a dually needed? #177  
well I'm getting closer to putting the rubber on the road. New rubber that is. My motorhome goes back to the dealer on Monday for sale, and when it's sold, I'm seriously considering an Excel fifth wheel that has a GVW of 18,750. Now based on that, I'm not going to ask if I need a dually. I know I do...The sales mgr at the rv dealership said unequivocally from his thirty years experience, buy a dually. He mimed what has been said here, it's not whether you can, or are legal to, but do you want to? Having spent most of my career in the insurance business, no question I don't want to drive equipment at its limit. Nor the driver. Kinda fun to watch the latest diesel engine wars, the boost has been turned up, and now it's at 860 pound feet of torque. I always did want a thousand....;) so we're getting closer. There is nothing local worth looking at in used stuff. Now which one to order...F350 4x4 crew cab with an 8 foot bed. That ought to be long enough. I'm told I need long. Makes sense. For two parking spots...:( About 23-24K tow rated, plenty for my intended 19K. But the Ram is awfully nice...and my normal allegiance to GM has disappeared here. Until GM turns up the boost on the Duramax, which they like the night following the day will surely do, GM is sucking the rear one in bragging rights. Momentarily. I'll bet there's another thread on this. Always is. Been discussing the big three for over fifty years, and this is what the right kind of free market competition will get you, constantly improving products. And frankly, all three are so good and so powerful I'm not sure it matters any more. But, which one will ride the nicest, relatively, when unhooked? Assume lowering tire pressure appropriately; I don't put super heavy stuff in the bed without upping the air pressure. Sure learned that on my Suburban 2500 and my motorhome. Those 90 psi Goodyear rv radials ride like circular rocks. I'm looking for comfort, not off road at all. And I'm going to have it for a long time for a farm truck too so I want to get it right. So I've been sucked in/successfully marketed to by a nicer heavier fifth wheel trailer, so I guess I should end this thread by saying, YES, I need a dually. For this weight. appreciate all your helpful comments.
I think a Ram 3500 with the air suspension is going to ride the best.
 
   / Is a dually needed? #178  
I think a Ram 3500 with the air suspension is going to ride the best.

But in the latest towing war tests it's been noted as the least stable and poorest overall performer.

Get a truck to do the job intended. If you want a good ride spend $5000 on a used Buick or Lincoln.

Chris
 
   / Is a dually needed? #179  
Well, welcome back Drew.

Too bad about your motorhome.

Hopefully you'll be getting this dually for a long time. The most important thing should be to test it like your going to use it. I'm a died in the wool Ford diesel fan, of the 7.3. But ford has been known to fubar later engines. My BIL is a died in the wool Ram fan.

Both new trucks are excellent trucks. I think that if "rough riding" without load is one of your main criteria you can spend 100's of hours researching on the net and asking people or just go down to a good dealer and test drive with the pressure in the tires you want. It's your butt.

From my reading the Cummins/Allison is a hard combo to beat.
 
   / Is a dually needed?
  • Thread Starter
#180  
thanks. I have no illusions that my new truck will ride softly Chris. If it did, it would likely tow horribly.
but new models really do appear to be more comfortable than ones five and certainly ten years ago. And a lot quieter in the cab.
I'd like to get the newer, quieter, more comfortable tech as long as it doesn't come with an unproven engine. And the latter seems to not be an issue, the
current crop of diesels seem to be pretty reliable.

And while it's riding creamy smooth over the local pothole ruined roads, I'd also like it to be nice and quiet at idle, outside the truck. Ever come up next to a first or second gen Cummins at a light with the window down? I usually have to roll it up, stupid noisy, noisier than most big trucks. Like a six foot tall paint rattle can being shaken outside your door...
And let's see, auto leveling magnetohetero ride with airbags, and what else can I throw in there? We already have jake brakes.

Chrysler/Ram used to have the best drivetrain warranty. I'd want the most years, not the most mileage.
 

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