Is it time for PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE?

[Boeing]

Hello fellas, been a quiet winter/spring. Retired from my 40 year career, had eye surgery and haven't been able to get back up to my "farm" But, sure have missed it. Had a neighbor friend tell me that DEER are everywhere. Hope they enjoyed the 3 acres of clover and 2 acres of turnips and kale that I planted for them last October.
Anyway, just wondering.....I have my 2000 Kubota L-3010. (A 30 HP 4X4 Diesel) It only has about 510 hours on it. The last owner had JUST changed the hydraulic hoses. I changed the oil/filter at 400 and at 490. I changed the hydraulic fluid/filter at 400. Changed the air filters at 450. Changed front axle/diff oil at 400. Replaced battery last fall. Changed the fuel filter at 450 hours.....
I am thinking that I have NEVER changed the fan belt or the coolant.....or the radiator hoses.
I'm not LOOKING for work mind you but by doing "preventative" maint. I've seldom been stranded in my cars/trucks. Seems like a tractor would be about the same.
Comments or laughter welcomed.
Thanks, Rob

 

[gwdixon]

It is just about always time to do "preventative maintenance".

There are proactive people and reactive people. Make your choice.

 

[Ken45101]

Does the fan belt LOOK worn or shabby? If not it's probably fine. I have a couple of 15 year old kubotas with original belts on them. Coolant is something that degrades over time and can cause engine damage (corrosion). An alternative is to test it.

 

[Bird]

I agree with Ken. Whether I changed the fan belt would depend on what it looks like. But I'd sure change the coolant.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thats the same tractor and vintage I have. I agree with the others on the coolant and and fan belt. My belt and battery are still fine with a lot more hours than you have on yours. You might recheck your front axle level if you haven't since you changed it. It takes some run time to get the air out after a change and the level drops quite a bit.
Mine has been a great tractor by the way. No major problems at all.

 

[Zebrafive]

I agree with Ken & Bird. I would change to coolant. Based more on years than hours, sounds like you have more years on it than a lot of hours per year.

 

[Gem99ultra]

There's no such thing as 'over maintenance' if you go by the WSM or Owner's Manual. Invariably when I'm performing some maintenance item early, I'll find something else that I overlooked earlier. Grease and fluids are cheap compared to replacement parts and labor.

Congrats on your 40 year retirement. I just did my 50 year a few years ago and am now heading for my eye surgery as well. Life is good!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Coolant that has a protective (from corrosion) of 2-5 years depending on what kind is spec for your machine is good to replace or beef up with additives.

Tractors that are not used to make a living, rented out, etc I do not get hyper about belts and hoses.

Preventative maintenance on the tractors especially the 1983 JD backhoe on things like belts and hoses I leave them be UNLESS I have to remove them for some service work. If I had to remove the radiator or water pump I would not reuse hoses showing their age and the same for hydraulic hoses.

One exception on preventative maintenance is ME. About 5 years ago we got the 265 MF and the 16' flat dump 1989 F-700 and the JD backhoe when I was 58 and I plan to use them from time to time until I am at least 80. Since belts and hoses in my case will last about 30 years I have redone some that I did not expect to last until I am 80 and that I did not want to do at age 75.

An alternator that charges fine but the bearing is talking back to you from time to time may not last another 20 years so I may address that. If one is going in for major surgery like a shoulder replacement you may consider getting heavy maintenance behind you.

Hydraulic fluid if it does not get a lot of water in can be good for 10-20 years I have observed in farm equipment used as toys. It can take that many years to get 500 hours on it.

Most preventative maintenance with tractors used as toys is more for the therapy of the owner than the machine in my view/experience. With that being said it is the fact that many of us posting here are going to have a heart attack, stroke and other physical and mental issues. IF we have our equipment up in good shape service wise we may on our 'good' days still want to bush hog, grade or clean out a ditch.

The kids are 16 and know how to do the maintenance and repairs or can figure it out and if they stay in the area they can use or take anything they need as they will bring the equipment and do what I need/want done.

 

[Boeing]

Thanks for all the inputs. All good ideas. I do need to grease more often. The tractor is used mainly to bush hog along the mile long road and the 3 acre field. Occasionally I'll take the chain saw and make a 100 yard path thru the woods and do some REAL brush hoggin. I get alot of fine "fluffy" seed stuff when I cut that upper field from so much SAGE grass. I try to clean out the battery box and air filter because of that. I'll check the belt and CHANGE the coolant........and re-check the front axle hyd fluid.
Thanks All

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We do not have any HST transmissions but if we did I would hope we would service them by the book. Any old gear box with most any kind of lube may be by with poor service but not some much in something like a HST.

 

[Boeing]

Speaking of GEARBOXes, Gale.....my tractor is a 4 spd MANUAL. I guess it uses the hydraulic fluid for lubricant...???
But, I have had the "shaft seal" on my BUSH HOG changed TWICE and the gear lube LEAK continues. I'm told that the shaft SIZE is not the normal so the seal will not fully stop grease/oil seepage. The dealer actually told me to start pumping 000 Grease into it? I tried putting a "leak stop" in with 90 wt. gear oil but it ran thru like "sh#% thru a goose".
I don't hear any grinding and it seems to run OK. It does get HOT though.

 

[Boeing]

Where and HOW do you guys get and change your rear TIRES? They're heavy.....yup, I decided that all by myself. If I jack the tractor up, put a stand under both sides and remove both tires.....can I roll/load them on a flatbed by myself? Would you get them at the local farm co-op or tractor supply? OH, I almost forgot....each tire has 18 gallons of windshield solvent in it for weight Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[big bubba]

are you inquiring about proper gear oil for the tractor or bush hog? for your kubota, would recommend Kubota UDT for the gearbox (& hyd system, all inclusive). SUTD (imho) is not necessay for your area...... as far as leaking gearbox in your bushog, well something heavy i guess will work. be sure your vent plug on that is breathing too, just check every session if it's leaking..... something too heavy in cooler temps can also blow seals.
also, is the b/h leaking from unput shaft seal or output (underneath) seal?.... best regards

 

[Boeing]

Thanks, it's in input driveshaft seal....never checked the vent....I add about a cup of 00 wt everytime I use it. I seems to run good, no noise and doesn't get too hot even after 3 hours use.....

 

[big bubba]

well great you've been on top of things (b/h) to avoid damage. a cup every use is quite a bit...but as you mention, shaft size etc could be an issue. there should be a breather plug somewhere on the box, worth checking out. some have spring ball check valves, older ones have a kind of bunched reed/wires config for lack of better description. after use when hot, back off the breather plug and check for back pressure in the box, shouldn't be much. otherwise, you may consider going to a bearing house w/shaft measurement & OD of seal housing for a correct match.
even good seals will leak when the b/h gearbox level is overfilled. something to consider..... sounds like on the tractor side, you have it covered. best regards
btw in regards to loaded rear tire change, (mine are considerably heavier than yours) i have finally decided to hire a tractor tire place to come out and do the job. much easier. safer too. best

 

[boggen]

simple drain and refill of coolant, i tend to do a " flushing " if you have access to a local car / repair shop. they can make life easier in draining the old coolant, and flushing the system, and then refilling.

tractor tires see... TIPS / TRICKS for tires

owner manual for tractor for most part is a descent list to go by. as far as fluid changes, and filter changes and like.

parts manual can be found online at most manufacture websites

shop/service manual = better diagrams and full description of tearing stuff apart and testing things as you go, and then putting it all back together. if you are a DIY'er sounds like you are, might be time to invest on a shop manual so you have it around when something actually happens.