Is the cold affecting joystick/cable function?

[Benny Blue]

Aside from the fact that the plastic joystick handle broke, my FEL loader functions were still working just fine. Then the tilt function started to have problems... you had to fiddle with the joystick a bit to get it to tilt, and sometimes it would keep going to its full extent up or down unless you drastically fiddled with it some more. Then it got to the point where it would barely move at all.
This all seemed to start happening as the temperature started getting pretty cold (btw -10 and -25degC).
the "joint ball pin" (see part3 in attached dwg) that controls the tilt function seemed to be very stiff. I gave it a bit of lock de-icer and some WD-40....this seemed to help very little.

The last few days the weather has warmed up considerably (above freezing) and the tilt function seems to be working fine again....which is making me lean towards the fact that the cold is affecting the issue.

Does this sound like a cable issue or perhaps in the valve???

Let me know if i'm leaving out any glaring details...

Hoping someone can shed some light on this for me.

Thanks,


View attachment Joystick 11518-3S-PDF.pdf

 

[Thomas]

Might just be build up light dirt,maybe good spraying of WD40 would help.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Usually it's moisture freezing up inside the control cable.

 

[Benny Blue]

Might just be build up light dirt,maybe good spraying of WD40 would help.

I've already sprayed a bunch of WD40 onto the joint ball pin in the joystick and it didn't help much. ....and after thinking about it... if it is dirt in the cable housing then the wd40 is just going to carry all the dirt down to the lowest point in the cable and bunch it up there, since the cable housing is sealed
:thumbdown:

 

[Industrial Toys]

WD 40 will have no effect on frozen moisture. Besides, it doesn't get where it's supposed to go anyway. The best chance you have of that, is to buy a snowmobile cable lubricating block. A really neat, and cheap thing that allows you to attach a spray can tube, in a positive manner to really get pressure going down the cable.

Unfortunately, it just helps, but rarely gives you the performance of a new cable. If only one could pull the inside out of the cable.

 

[Benny Blue]

ok, i'll consider that.
The guy i was speaking with at Nimco suggested that it is more likely an issue in the spool and suggested taking off the spool housing and seeing if the spool spins freely. If it doesn't then its a problem with the spool.

 

[Industrial Toys]

All I know, is that I have had my share of frozen cables. I doubt (could be wrong) that anybody ever had a problem with a frozen hydraulic valve when the lever was right at the valve. Unless, they have water in their hydraulic oil in quantity.

 

[Fallon]

All I know, is that I have had my share of frozen cables. I doubt (could be wrong) that anybody ever had a problem with a frozen hydraulic valve when the lever was right at the valve. Unless, they have water in their hydraulic oil in quantity.

I've heard of lots of people getting water/ice/crap in the float detent cap & it freezing up.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Interesting. I have never had that happen. Usually it's reasonably well sealed. I mean, the thing isn't supposed to be under water.

 

[CalG]

When I added a loader valve to the Hurlimann, I noted several examples of "factory" installations that included cable extended controls that allowed positioning of the joy stick in a very comfortable and convenient location on the right side fender.

Then I read about cable freeze ups!

Since the lions share of my "need to use the loader" occurs with winter snow events, I opted for placing the valve close to hand with directly attached levers.

No troubles so far! ;-)

I know this does not help your situation, but I offer a considered perspective.

 

[s219]

Bet it's water inside the cans on the end of the valve spools, freezing up. Very common problem reported here on TBN.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Well, I guess, isolating the problem with a heat gun (when it happens) , and carefully, shouldn't be too hard.

 

[Fallon]

Interesting. I have never had that happen. Usually it's reasonably well sealed. I mean, the thing isn't supposed to be under water.

Condensation collects in the oddest places sometimes. Doesn't need to get dunked to get wet.

When you remove the cap put a plastic bag over it first. That way when the spring loaded ball bearings explode you stand a chance at finding them in the bag.

I hear many people fix things permantly by drilling an extremely tiny hole on the lowest corner of the cap. Let's any water or crap drain out of the bottom.

 

[ovrszd]

My Kubota was acting like that last Fall. The joystick was out of adjustment. Had to wiggle the handle to get any curl function. Took off the cover and adjusted the controls. Problem solved. Temps could make that better or worse.

 

[Benny Blue]

CalG,
that certainly would be the way to go to eliminate areas of potential failure.

 

[Benny Blue]

Well, I guess, isolating the problem with a heat gun (when it happens) , and carefully, shouldn't be too hard.

I'll keep this in mind next time it freezes up. Luckily i have the option of parking it in our heated garage as well....as long as it takes to test out this theory. Currently just keep my wife's car in the (2-car) garage and the tractor is kept under a lean-to.

Bet it's water inside the cans on the end of the valve spools, freezing up. Very common problem reported here on TBN.

I'll look into that as well. I'll let you know...